Cool… btw - if you can - change the topic’s name… change it to something like ‘‘Skatey 800 - Lead acid to LiPo conversion’’
Will be easier to later be found by others… and just to understand better the topic in general…
Click on the icon… right next to the topic…it should be like a ‘‘pen’’ / pencil icon… scroll till the top of the page to be able to see it…
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Hope your injuries have come better! I got my hand scratched the other day! … part of the reason - too tight front bindings! Try to make it loose enough so you can pull out your foot if you need to jump off the board… otherwise - the board will roll over… along with you, if you fall / trip on an object.
PS - should have worn gloves… didnt have any…
Wear gloves, if you ride with bindings! Will save your skin! Helmet also comes handy,
especially, if you fall on your face/ head when you fall!
Just be careful… these things are dangerous, if you dont watch where you are riding / or what you are going over! …
I hit an ice (reason I fell)… shouldnt have tried to ride over it in the first place
je i do always where gloves
and a helmet (wel 1 time i tink i didn’t but i can remember )
my wounds are mostly gone
but i still can skate my doctor say in about one week i can try again
so i have to leave my new batteries on the shelf
btw i stopt charing my batteries when thay are 4v per sell that means i have a total of 48 volts and 3 volt’s wont let any ting explode i tink so (and i hope so)
and i dont rly want to de solder a sell i mean the board is wit out a battery second han for around 170 euro and the battery is out of sale 145 euro so i tink the risk is smaller to do it at 4v instead of desoldering a cell so i am gone go this rout
I don’t know how you manage to fall off that board! i have the same and never came even close to that. I have no bindings and would certainly not recommend them, at least you can jump off the board in case of problem Your max speed must be around 30-32Km/h, so it is still manageable. As said by Okami try to tighten the two bolts on the trucks. Mine is quite stiff and the problem is more to turn in tight corners than the wobbling.
By the looks of things you seem to be willing to just exchange the batteries without touching the electronics. I am very interested as I am in the process of doing the same (lead-acid to Li-ion), but I thought I would have to change the ESC as well. See my other posts on the subject where you may find some information.
about that esc as far as i know brusles ecs can take any battery aslong as it is about the volt thay like
but be carefull because driveing ur lipos under 3.3v per cell can harm u lipos but wit lead acid batterys u can drive them down totally
if i was u i soud wait un til i have completely tested my board so u dont have to break a board if any ting bad happens
Also - what charger do you have? How powerful is it?
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Report (tell) later - whenever it works or not with the new batteries! 3V might still make a difference but let’s see, once you attach it to the esc!
One thing about turning - do you have these things called ‘‘risers’’ for your board?
These are plastic thing/rectangular shape/ which are mounted between the deck (board) and the trucks/wheel axle…
If you have them… you could try installing one with an angle! It is called a ‘‘wedge’’… it helps eiter with turning or for stability! In your case - stability is the one you should go for, when you install them!
I changed the ‘‘position’’ of the wedge and it made a big difference in how responsive ( turny) the board is… Ive got no problems turning a bit sharper now!
They where 22.5v when they came but me with my dump ass change them and now unloading them to get them to storage charge witch takes 3 day ffs I am planing on buying a new charger thinking about the ichager duo or the reactor 2x300w
No I was like ow my battery’s are here let’s change them
Full and then when they were full I was o wait I aint gone use them in like to weeks and my charger can only charger to storage charge and not discharge to storage charge idk wy
6 lol I know they are not my ones (2 of them are) the are from a friend of my he has the same board as I have.
But he doesn’t know shit about volts and amps so he asked me to do it for him witch I did
I had a look at the ESC this week-end and it is quite complicated to have access without dismantling everything, so I think I will just connect the battery when I get it and see how it goes. It’s not a LIPO it’s a Li-ion 10S4P with BMS and anti-spark. So the voltage is the same as my lead-acid.
I have also changed the tires. i had the same as you and i bought more road-type tires, although they are still quite big (8" but very wide). I am sure you could fit MTB wheels on these trucks, but then you would have to re-think the pulley arrangement as it is a very specific system with a three bolts holder.
The whole thing seems of pretty good quality, but the parts are heavy.
Either change the springs (tightness) or the - angle / wedge, For maximum stability, I believe the ‘‘truck angle’’ should be maximum parallel to ground… Not like this:
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But like this:
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Also, did you fall when riding normally or when pressing the ‘‘gas’’?
I got extreme wobble today when I sqeezed the trigger waay much… some ppl call this ‘‘gunning’’… either way after the acceleration, if you let go of the trigger, the board starts to slow down rapidly and this causes the wobble… at least it did in my case