I got mine here…
5pcs/lot SS495A1 95A TO-92 high-precision Hall sensor SS495A screen 95A new original http://s.aliexpress.com/UzQJJ73U (from AliExpress Android)
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Yes it is! 
Sorry @banjaxxed, probably not what you want to hear! It looks like you’ve got some skipped steps there. Did you print from your PC over USB or an SD card? I had skipped layers when I tried to print from my PC.
Super impressed with the model. It’s very well planned out and modeled.
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Heh no I use astroprint loaded up with x3g files created with slicer I adjusted the flow to increase since my printer seems not to like pla, I think it hit off some layer during the night and popped over some belt teeth hence the stepping effect, I’m adjusting to fix that have managed a decent print in abs
Cool, sounds like you’re on the case. Make sure you post it up when you get a successful print.
Wow yours is really nicely printed! Looks good, show us the finished product when you get that far 
Thanks @Clonkex! I’m really amazed with the model, props to @solidgeek. The two sides slot together perfectly!
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I had skipped steps becaus one of my motor drivers got to hot and failsaved.adding pc fan on top solved the problem (or decreasing the motor current and therefore printspeed)
I have a dual with twin fans and a third as a blower onto the nossle openings, I’ve added a 1mm plate of glass fibre this morning…no more hairspray 
This is great @solidgeek thanks
Trying again with a light blue abs but just realised I used the same stl as last time, so I will have two for the leftorium
Finishing up one part in yellow to make it look like I’m just holding a banana 
Forgot to set it to 50% infill, but don’t think 20% will be a problem.
Now to order me some electronics and build this fine looking remote.
Donation done!
Printer under extruded one layer and I broke it hehe, let’s print again and hope my printer doesn’t fail now.
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Wow a proper Prusa i3! They are lovely machines. Mine is a custom i3 clone.
@ervinelin Well okay… That’s some very low values, however, it shouldn’t be a problem as long as the min and max values are set correctly 
The Trigger options aren’t used in the software just yet, I hope to include it in the next update. Regarding the transmitter, it’s hard to tell however here is a few things to remember:
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The receiver needs 5V directly on the 5V rail or 7-12V on the VCC rail. If you supply 5V to the VCC it will drop beneath the 3.3V regulator min-voltage-input - and not be able to supply the right amount of voltage.
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I recommend adding a 220uF cap on the receiver 5V rail
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The nRF24-module should be connected to 3.3V
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Shield the module from the wires underneath. Wrap some aluminum foil around the wires going under the nRF24-module.
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Try shielding the nRF24-module. First, wrap some isolating material (plastic or shrink wrap) around the module. On top of the isolating material, add a layer of aluminum foil around the module - remember to keep the antenna free. This helps remove electromagnetic noise from the wires beneath and around the module, which in some cases causes problems.
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Double check the wires and the connections, it should work
Let me know.
@banjaxxed try printing one part at the time 
@HighMasterGogo Looks beautifull! I am glad you like the model - it took some hours to make Thanks
@mptrs Looks good mate! The 20% shouldn’t be a problem, however the LEDs will probably shine through … Thanks, but I don’t see any donation, you sure 
?
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not to stress but when can we expect to assembly video to be made?
Did it via the paypal.me, but it’s still on being processed.
Printing it again tomorrow in translucent blue, so everything will be visible hehe. Can’t get the yellow to print cleanly.
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@Jammeslu Probably not gonna make a video, but a guide for all steps is in my mind.
@ervinelin I just realised that I have changed the CE and CS pins on the receiver, at some point. If you wired the nRF24 receiver the same as the transmitter, that will for sure cause problems.
I have updated the receiver code, hope it helps
Try the new software out first!!
Thanks @solidgeek!
But here’s the thing, the diagram in your wiki showed pins 9 and 10 connected, not 7 and 8…
So I actually swapped the code back to 9 and 10 and FINALLY I got the transmitter to talk to the receiver!!!
I checked with the VESC app to see if there was a signal and indeed there was!
Now the next problem. The signal is very very very sketchy, one second it’s there, the next it is not. I have yet to shield the NRF modules but I am surprised the signal is so bad.
Also, the min and max pulsewidth as seen in the VESC app are wildly off what I used to have, what used to be 1 and 2 is now something like 0.8 and 0.9. Is this normal?
Thanks again, really stoked that at least I got some movement… just for some reason it’s a really really sketchy signal, I’ll try shielding next.
Haha okay, well I am a big mess I will edit the schematic, the pins should be the same, it makes more sense.
Regarding the sketchy signal, it is probably power or noise related. How are you supplying power to the receiver? It’s important to add a big capacitor on the 5V rail if you are powering the Arduino from a VESC. If it’s a noise issue, try to take out the transmitter module, and move it away from the remote. If this helps, you could try shield the wires or nRF24-module.
The 0.8 and 0.9 pulse width seems weird, however, I am not sure because I have never tested the remote on a VESC 4 (please provide a picture).
Most issues are fixed by adding some capacitors or shielding the transmitter. A few pictures of your setup, with wiring etc. would help me fix your issue
EDIT: The problem may be that I have fucked up the pins in software. In transmitter.ino I have written RF24 radio(7, 8); however according to my schematics, it should be pin 9 and 10. I will change both the transmitter code AND receiver code to use pin 9 as CE and pin 10 as CS. Maybe this helps
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Just a heads up, but 0.20mm worked best for me. Slic3r had some trouble with 0.15mm. Now I got one side 0.15mm 50% and the other 0.20mm and I think 20% but could be 50% as well. Not sure my OCD can handle this hehe.
As for the design I have to give you mad probs, it fits together perfectly! Now I’ll wait for the 11th to order the things from Ali cause there is discount on some of the items. (yeah I’m Dutch hehe)
Any progress on this?
Progress!
So I shielded both transmitter and receiver NRF modules with copper tape and that seemed to work. When connected I can get a few meters away before I lose connection (good enough for esk8).
Now the problems:
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Noisy PWM signal - PWM signal seems awfully noisy, I’m still getting that strange pulse width range (now it’s about 0.4 - 0.9) and the throttle position doesn’t seem consistent all the time. However I suspect it’s my magnets, I have better ones coming in so hopefully that will help.
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Receiver needs reboot to connect - Receiver does not connect when I turn on the board, but connects almost instantly when I reboot the ardunio via on-board reset button - I suspect this might be a timing issue between when it’s powered on and when it looks for the signal to bind to the transmitter?
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No UART data - This really is the only reason why I built this controller, but I’m getting nothing, I assume in the remote settings UART should be set to 1(0 didn’t work either), then in VESC I set it to PPM & UART. I then connect Tx on the arduino to Rx on the VESC and vice versa. Anyone know exactly which pins are these on both the VESC and Arduino? Also does this work for every VESC out there? I’m using the Hobbyking VESC.
Thanks again for the help! Erv.
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