Hey, sorry for the late answer, I’ve been busy at work and school. I am currently working on a big update for the software - to be released soon I hope (lol).
@egzplicit Actually I am not even sure if the button is necessary, I believe I can make it work by transmitting a struct with a updateSettings variable in it or something like that To be continued…
@ervinelin I am positive the newest version is online at Thingiverse Regarding the dual VESC setup, you won’t be able to read data from both at the same time - the remote only needs one data source. If you connect your two VESCs by CAN bus, I think everything should work just fine.
@Mozillum I am currently looking for a way to borrow a good camera / video-recorder. However that is it, sorry
@karatektus I use the module with a ceramic antenna because it is more stable (mainly because of the PA/LNA). I am sure you can use a normal nRF24 module And nice work modifying the display However I am not sure if it is even possible to fit that display inside the remote? It looks kinda big. Regarding the delay caused by the display, I have been planning to optimize that part heavily. Any ideas regarding that? Without adding another microprocessor
well the first thing would be to remove all the backgroundelements from the loop. no need to redraw the text everytime. no ideas otherwise. im a webdeveloper. resources arent normally a problem for me
i guess id just use a different arduino. ill order it and give it a shot. i wouldnt really mind the extra $10.
Edit: Thinking about it for another five minutes: You should only draw a new number if necessary (if it differs from the old value) but that wouldnt help much when you break or accelerate hard. which is when its the most critical ^^
The bigger display should just fit could you remove the little ledge in there and increase the height of the cutout to twice the current height? if you are too busy im gonne bodge it together with openscad or something
Awesome, I was planning to put this together tomorrow on my day off. Already got 90% of the parts in and 3D printed all the necessary files (my 3D printer is very bad for small objects though, so having problems fitting everything nice and snug). You are right about the wheel with the knob, it’s in Thingiverse already, my bad.
I am assuming I can just run the current code and I can update it as and when you have uploaded the new version.
ill rework it a little so it doesnt break compatibility with smaller displays and create a fork tonight.
(Edit - maybe not all tonight its kind of a lot of work :D)
Is it complicated or just a lot of work? Myb I can help… I have a longboard without a remote but i have all of the parts for this remote, just larger display
So I spent the whole afternoon building this… boy that’s a lot of tiny wires!!! Had a lot of fun building this but it’s not easy especially when my printer spits our very rough prints.
Looks good! Its a lot of fun to build You can enter and change settings by holding the trigger while turning on the remote. In the settings you can change the hall min, max and center values, to match your magnets and print. If you activated debug (in software) and open up serial monitor, I believe it should print out the hall sensor values. This way you can calibrate the remote. I am adding a function for this in the next big software update
@HighMasterGogo Glad you like it mate Looking forward to see your build!
@ervinelin At least you entered the settings! Clicking the trigger enters and exits the selected setting, while the throttle is used to select and change setting values. So if the throttle doesn’t change anything, something is wrong I got a few ideas.
The polarity isn’t opposite. Check the polarity of the magnets, they have to be opposite (one being north and the other being south). If they aren’t opposite, drill a small hole beneath each magnet and push them out.
Magnets are weak / min and max are to high. By default, the min and max values are 0 and 1023. To change the settings on the remote the input has to be input = maxHallValue - 50 = 973 or input = minHallValue + 50 = 50.
If your magnets are a bit weaker than mine, the hall sensor will output a smaller value (voltage), and therefore not high enough to change settings. To check this, enable debug and plug-in a USB for debugging through Serial monitor I have just added a debug-message for the Hall sensor value to the transmitter software - so remember to use the newest version on Github
Now one slight problem I noticed is that the trigger is always set to “kill switch” mode, I’ve gone into the settings and changed it from 0 to 3 (kill switch to data toggle) but it remains as “kill switch”.
The bigger problem is I can’t get the transmitter to connect to the receiver…
I double checked the connections, made sure the pipe addresses were the same as well. Still nothing, serial monitor shows “Failed Transmission”.