Yeah beautifully done on your design and thread here definitely inspiring me to want to redo mine but need to put it on the backlog pile of things to do for now, maybe I’ll get around to it in a few weeks. I considered doing the linear hall sensor idea too so cool to see someone who actually implemented it. I went with the potentiometer and trigger route because it’s basically what I had previously and just took the same concept for my own controller.
Definitely big but I was putting a mess of wires and big boost converter and nonsense in there but have since figured out how to get it down to a small stack of PCBs, those NRF modules you’re using are super compact though that’s awesome. I’m pretty sure you don’t need the boost circuit if you get the 8MHz pro mini boards they run on 3.3V so they’re pretty much good using the LiPo power directly into the RAW pin and getting regulated down to 3.3V for most of the life of the LiPo (speed grades section in the ATMEGA328P shows it at 10MHz with less voltage so should be good) in my own testing has been pretty stable without the boost. Only issue I have is when the battery is really low in the remote it doesn’t read the top end in the ADC as high as it should so the throttle signal is sending lower/sluggish speed but kind of good because lets me know I need to juice up the remote. Awesome thing is all these parts use almost no power either way so the battery lasts forever.
Thanks I really appreciate your kind words ! The potentiometer is a great solution, however I couldn’t find a way to make it small enough to fit in my remote. Also the Hall sensor setup is quite solid, because there are no mechanical wear on the throttle. I have been thinking of using the 3.3V Arduino, however the Hall Sensor makes this impossible as it requires at least 4,5V to operate optimal.
There are probably some Hall Sensors of the same type that works at 3.3V however I had already ordered mine And as you mention yourself, when the battery voltage drops below 3.3V the reference voltage will drop, so will need some kind of undervoltage circuit that prevents that - the easy solution a Boost converter ! They come in very small sizes and cost no more than 5$.
Gotcha yeah had the afterthought that some of the other components here might need higher voltage. Regarding the cut off think it can probably be done with a zener diode too but I’m not entirely sure so far I haven’t really had a problem since most of the time the voltage level is far above what’s needed anyhow (4.2V-3.6V is where it’s at a majority of the charge). Yeah the boost converter I had was variable and big will have to check out the ones you used here too looks super compact, I don’t think I need it but good to be aware of what’s out there for future stuff anyhow.
I’m flying racing drones, and have recently upgraded my gimballs in my remote to hall sensors. It feels so much better and so much more precise now. So seeing your project makes me wanna start my 3d printer now
How much do it cost in parts to build this nice remote, with LCD ?
@Silverline Thanks! Yeah Hall Sensors are great :P! I have made a “shopping list” with the prices in Google Sheets, and the price for the remote is roughly 34$ (not including 3D-printed parts).
@Maxid I am currently making a few improvements on the 3D-model (testing it out tonight), I will release the files on thingiverse tomorrow Looking forward to hear your opinion on the printed version!
@MontPierre Yeah for sure, however it is still some very basic Arduino code, with only a few hours of work. Anyways I will release the prototype code tomorrow as well Maybe you guys can help me improve it
Yeah would like to see the code as well, have a couple of things I ran into that I can probably add as a PR to your code for some fail-safes if you don’t have them in there already.
! The potentiometer is a great solution, however I couldn’t find a way to make it small enough to fit in my remote. Also the Hall sensor setup is quite solid, because there are no mechanical wear on the throttle. I have been thinking of using the 3.3V Arduino, however the Hall Sensor makes this impossible as it requires at least 4,5V to operate optimal.
! They come in very small sizes and cost no more than 5$.
How much do it cost in parts to build this nice remote, with LCD ?
I like better the one from Sparkfun 
Looking forward to hear your opinion on the printed version!
