no ur chager wont like this set up i made a scets take a good look
i markt wat u did rong but if u change every ting u need change it wil look just like this
just do it like this:
Also you should probably have a look at this thread:
um that is the same but u wil power the vesc btw and no anti spark plug (u need that)@SteveS this is your digarm or did i made a mistake
@Esrapp21 if you use @SteveS setup u need to take the lid of every singel time
it is not the same - in my diagram there is a loop key that acts as an anti spark.
it is but i need 2 put a volt meter in my xt60 so i need to get 2 free ports not one and the xt60 is that key and if i look at my other diagram u can se the xt90 antie spark and how do u stop puting the esc on power
okay for every one here are 2 great options 1 is not mine it is @Maxid fist option i wil take a bit more connectors but i dont need to open ur case or have any cables sticking out just connectors great if u want to seal ur case whit silicone u need to take out those (keys)xt90 and 60 before u charge
second one simpel bit i wil need to be abele to open ur case / housing easy this is not mine its @Maxid ones i dont take credit it is up to u witch u like the most if u have any question plz ask me
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Yup, the second diagram @mountainboardlover69 posted is my setup (except I use XT90s throughout). On my Trampa, opening the case is easy, but I used the same setup with a conventional @psychotiller enclosure. I cut a hole in the enclosure, then used a Ford truck body plug to access the connectors.
Incidentally, I don’t see the advantage of the first diagram @mountainboardlover69 posted above. Wouldn’t one have to disconnect the xt90s connector and the xt60 connector that puts the batteries in series before parallel charging?
After all this, I realized that there was a simpler solution. I scraped the original circuit design and shifted to a Great Scott (Youtube) inspired design from this video: https://youtu.be/zaTskMjpXtA . Here is the new design that features a three way switch system. One question: Will the battery display and VESC Parallel circuit part be an issue?
Now you have both batteries wired in parallel permanently, regardless of switch configuration
these switches are usually not rated at the typical currents we use. Also @jmasta is right - now your batteries are wired in parallel the entire time.
Please think a little bit more about what you actually want.
This is way more complex than I expected… I’m gonna use your guys design for the circuit. I’ll send a picture of the final board.
Thank you so much for these designs. This is what I am going to use, assuming all is good and nothing blows up…
Brown represents enclosure, note it is not the correct shape, but what is sticking out will be sticking out. For the exposed wires, I will have rubber covers on them while the port isn’t in use.
you can’t make a parallel balancer cable when the batteries are getting used in a series configuration later. Also there is no need for the switch since you have a loop key.
If he removed the switch, wouldn’t the batteries effectively be connected in series via the VESC?
he should get rid of the switch and put the VESC behind the loop key. I was anyway urging him to change his layout since the balancer cables will not work like this. But it seems to me that the fundamental understanding of how electricity works is lacking in this thread. I will probably stop commenting since it seems to be an endless back and forth with the same mistakes over and over again.
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Agreed. Further, this most recent configuration is dangerous because if he forgot to turn off the switch before charging, the batteries would still be connected in series (as I said, via the VESC).
I think @Kaly did what @Esrapp21 is trying to do. The magic is in the DPDT witch. He documented it nicely here.
thanks for the link - that looks really clean. I would just be worried about the currents going through the small DPDT switch. they are usually only rated at like 2-6A - not the 20-50A we typically use. But maybe @Kaly can comment on his experience and prove me wrong.
Hello guys The switch works really well. It is rated for 20A @ 125V or 10A @ 250V this translate to 2500W and that is more than enough for our application.
The switch need to be use with extreme care when choosing a setting because if the balance leads are connected in PARALLEL while the switch is set to SERIES you are going to BURN 
the balances leads.
To avoid this You’ll need to first choose the parallel position, then connect the charger and then connect the balance lead in parallel.
As a precaution all the positions of the switch have to be label and a warning label need to be paste to the charging port and balance leads, to remind you to check the correct settings.
If you are not sure you can follow the procedure do not do this, it’s easy to make a mistake with the balance leads.
Good luck.
Yeah, while I admire the convenience in use and slickness of your setup, @Kaly, that my setup is idiot-proof good for my peace of mind.