@uigiroux I understand that. I’m just saying the double stack enclosure would only be like 10mm thicker.
1 Like
11s 4p or 12s4p if ur obsesive compulsive willfit
you’d think I would take a picture of it considering how many times it’s been opened up. Nothing
Here’s a screenshot from a video I recorded when I was running into issues. The yellow bit at the bottom is the end of my “pack”, the BMS is there. That mess of wires can be cleaned up. If you decide to put your LCD, switch and charge port on the flat side of the enclosure instead if the edge like me, there’s is really no room left.
2 Likes
The 30Q is underrated at 15A. Look at the discharge curve here, you’ll see that at 20A the capacity is the same as at 15A. Everyone rates the real world continuous draw of the 30Q at 20A:
The 40T discharge curve at 30A continuous:
Both batteries have reduced capacity at their respective 20A/30A draws. The 30Q is at 2550mah and the 40T at 3500mah.
The temperature of the 40T at 30A is 77C, while the 30Q at 20A is 83C. While the 30Q is 6 degrees hotter, its within operating tolerance.
So the 40T gives a 50% increase in continuous current draw, but only a 33% increase in capacity, at a 46% increase in volume, but at 37% increase in cost. The 40T loses in every metric except current draw - where it’s just about equal to the 30Q. By simply increasing the number of 30Q cells by 46%, you get a 46% increase in capacity vs 33% and same current draw.
You said no cost, but a 30Q build will also save you 37% vs equivalent 40T build. It outperforms the 40T, is cheaper, you can actually buy it and there’s support for 18650 everywhere.
3 Likes
If you ignore cost, it changes everything.
I asked you above what you wanted, but you never answered. You seem set on using the 40T no matter what, so do it! Use them!
Dude get your facts straight. It’s 24.6lbs. lol @uigiroux
Let me remind you of something. 30q 12s4p(48cells) is 4.92lbs
My 13s5p(65 cells) is a whole whopping… Wait for it… 6.67lbs. everything else the same…that’s a mere 1.75lbs heavier…
What makes you think it would be 40lbs haha…
Also
The only reason mine is heavy is because I have chosen to run 107s instead of 83mm.
2 Likes
@Deckoz My fault, sorry. I really thought I read somewhere you saying it was around that weight. I searched all over trying to find it but came up short. My bad… That’s really quite impressive it is that light actually! Very nice 
Sorry I didn’t mean to ignore your question, I had so my questions being thrown at me I didn’t get a chance to respond to everything. To tell you the truth, I’m coming around to the 30Q. Haven’t decided yet, but I am pretty sure that at the very least I’m over the 40T.
1 Like
At depths of 8P or more the 35E and the PF are attractive as well. At 1P or 2P the 40T looks good. 3P to 6P is solid 30Q territory
1 Like
What about the Sanyo NCR20700B, that’s like 4000mAh, 16A and can be gotten for pretty good price.
Last I checked they were 859mAh / € while the PF is 1457mAh / € and the 30Q is 1091mAh / €
So, not a good deal if you’re optimising for cost
They are lighter than either one of those, but if you’re optimising for lightness then the MJ1 is better
1 Like
While I want the board to be as light as possible, I’m ok with the cells weighing more if they have the good specs to justify it. I’m only going 12s5p at most though, probably 4p actually, so I want the battery pack to not be super heavy. That’s also why I’m not double stacking it. Want the enclosure to be barely noticeable.
I’ve got a headache so I’m turning in for the night. Not ignoring any posts 
Is this your first build btw? It kinda sounds like it is but i don’t wana assume… Edit: and if this is your first build, depending on how long you’ve been riding i don’t think going 4wd is your best bet tbh. In DIY no matter how much planning goes in, things will go wrong, the more you have the more there is to go wrong. This is Les sa daunting for an experienced builder but if it’s your first, you will be thoroughly frustrated and out of a whole lotta bucks. Now, I’m saying you should maybe go for more conventional components as it would make your life much easier. Have you thought about how the many components you’re looking at interact with each other? Just saying, it seems like you’re overloading yourself with this build, but maybe work up to it with smaller builds. Of course, this is all if this is indeed your first build. Cheers
3 Likes
Maybe I will release, but they are really kinda depending on my whole build. The latest on is modular BMS, balance circuit for each P group, one big ass switch, thermal/capacity/current logging, bit powerful charger and etc stuff
1 Like
I will revive this thread a bit with an ongoing choice for batterys. I’m limited by the 4p count in my future board, it will be a 12s battery in a slightly higher end build. I can go either 20700 route or 18650 and money wise I have no issues. 40t seems to be the best thing to use in my case, nkon atm has a good price on them, any reason not to choose them? I don’t see an option of building a higher amp and bigger cappacity pack from any other cell out where. Will be used with pnaumies and most likely 6380 motors.
Im loving the 40t’s. Rocking a 12s4p on one of my boards. If you ask me, they’re the best cell on the market at the moment in larger format configurations.
They should be the new standard imo
6 Likes
How much are you able to get the 40T’s for?