What is your ideal and indestructible mount? Do you have a design in mind that you can share?
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2 inch thick steel welded on lol
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You need 2 inch thick āhardenedā steel welded lol
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fuck it, 8 inch thick
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Thank you for bringing up your concern. One little suggestion, if you are going to make any claim about a bad design of anyone mount please give it the courtesy of buying one of their mount. Install it, test it, ride it and not abuse it, and if it breaks post it on this forum so we can all put our head together and see how to improve it. FYI: if you are interested in giving my mount a try, it is $50 including US shipping. It includes 3/8" thick clamp, 3/16" thick motor arm, dual idlers(4 bearings), and stainless hardware. To see more pictures of my mount please click on following link:
http://www.electric-
skateboard.buildershttps://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/3X/e/c/ec8c570e992c83ac853ce22ced05ed0ddfdf108c.JPG
Thank you for sharing pictures of the broken mounts. Side note: on one of the picture I was surprised to see the motor is still in good shape and hadnāt broke off from the mount. Motor is usually held by 4 x M4 screws (4mm or 5/32" diameter), I was expected these screws to break-off before damages are done to the thick aluminum plate.
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No matter what I did, rotating slots always failed me. I eventually removed the rotating feature all together (motor plate rotating about hangar clamp)
My clamp has tapped blind holes. Red loctite failed within 2 blocks, even after cleaning the bolts and letting the loctite cure for 48 hours. Maybe if you had thru holes with locknuts on the other side it would be a different story
If youāre designing a motor mount, I would first 3D print a motor plate with rotating slots. Then find out what angle you need and remove the slots from the design before machining your metal mount
TL;DR - Rotating slots. Just say no.
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Did you apply the loctite to the bolt or the hole? When red loctite fails, in my experience, it was applied wrong. Properly applied loctite should not come off without heating parts with a blowtorch. This has always been my experience with it so I wonder if you somehow applied it wrong.
For blind threaded holes, the loctite should be applied to the hole and not the screw. If the loctite is applied to the screw, it will get pushed out of the hole and threads as you put the screw in. Youāre supposed to appl the loctite to the hole and tap it a little so that it flows down the threads before putting in the screw.
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On my mount with set screws I havenāt gotten the rotational part to get loose. It has come loose once but that was cause I ran zero loctite. Now that I put blue it doesnāt seem to budge. Either way I revamped mine with a 2 piece clamp system with nylon locknuts. I have also gone with a through-hole design that uses m4 12.9 bolts, so no stripping there. Hopefully it holds up!
For those not familiar with the wonder of Loctite 290, it allows you to apply loctite after you align and tighten without having to disassemble to add loctite. If you have a threaded thru-hole or nut and bolt, you can apply the 290 on the back side and itāll seep into the thread, I find running the motor to vibrate the board helps get it in nice and deep quickly, you can literally see a drop seep into the threads. It has a very small particle size and very viscous.
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You should try mine sometime, I doubt you would break it! I focused specifically on making a mount that would not flex or lose adjustment. We also use the extra thickness and create more surface area and mass for heat sinking and cooling fins. A wide mounting clamp and precise mating surface is very important. The idea of going back to clamping mounts on uneven fresh castingsā¦
I am going to go out on a limb here and say that anything short of this in a belt drive is basically a toy. Thin motor mounts will flex and break due to metal fatigue. You can feel the difference in how the board lays down the power with a stiff motor mount. We also use really small drive pulleys in eskate so an idler is mandatory if you want enough teeth in mesh. May seem like a gadget but they run loose and the belts wont skip. @200lbs this is important!
Since I use an extra bearing pressed into the mount you could probably mount a stator to it and gain some room between mounts by ditching the motor base. Be nice on a custom dual rear, a good way to lose excessive truck width and get some responsiveness back!
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Theyāre flexing right now bitch!! Muscles
I was kiddinā Though, Everything flexes right? Am I right?
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Glad you were kidding, it was funny to see what pops in your mind when you see something thick and intimidating. 
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Please letās avoid that subject. Someone will start to argue again that timing belts stretchā¦
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@mccloed has been trying to stretch a rock for like 2 weeks. I think heās made some progress.
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dudeā¦ timing belts do stretch! if you put a timing belt under a microscope and go down to the atomic-molecular scale you can see the atoms moving! some people man lol.
timing belts also disintegrate if you spill a glass of water on them so be careful
and yea, my 7mm thick alu 7075 flexes a ton if you blow on it the right way
ps. everything I just said was a complete joke lol
i actually stretched a rock yesterday. pretty sure I saw an atom move
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Everything stretches when gravity waves pass through it. Yeah, I went there. Letās talk about motor mount designs LoL 
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