Re-building Loaded Vanguard with Bamboo/Fibreglass/Carbon

Daaaammmmmnnnn, thats a pretty deck.

Hey whitepony, did you change the axle of the CRonins? I’m planing to use Enertion type wheel pulleys but I’m not sure how difficult would be to change the axle

nope, using the trampa pulley probably … and hopefully their 90mm wheels!

1 Like

last picture attack - vicious:

next to the fairly shabby looking vanguard with my 83mm stickies

and finally done with everything - just belt missing now and the holes for the loop key.

18 Likes

Thats a DIY my lord !!! Big up WP !

2 Likes

downside of a topmount non-bottlenose is of course wheelbite unless you press in wheel wells. I couldve gone the giant riser route or sand in wells which I wasnt sure how to do yet since I dont really have any cool drum sander or anything alike … until I realized that I had the perfect drum sander: my wheels! :stuck_out_tongue:

thanks to the awesome supportpin, you can use the ronins without bushings at all and still have an absolute precise idea of where the wheel will be under load with bushings: just where they are without bushings and without load :smile:

so I used double adhesive tape on my 90mm abecs (cause i want to use 90mm wheels once the trampas become avilable)

wrapped them in 120grit paper

and used my battery drill with some polishing head to drive the wheel

a perfect wheel well made for just this setup!

looks pretty sleek and wheelbite is gone :slight_smile:

51 Likes

… like usual… it’s AWESOME !!! hahahahha love this tricks !!! Tanks :wink:

2 Likes

You just blew my fucking mind. We’re simply not worthy. You’re a god damn mastermind and artist. I think I love you.

8 Likes

I literally did the exact same thing the other day. Wanted to get rid of some bite so I added 200 grit sand paper and ran the wheels powered one at a time lol.

1 Like

lol this is such a good idea! DIY at its best!

1 Like

That was the best idea :joy:

In Germany we say you can be stupid

no problem, when you can help your self :sunglasses:

2 Likes

today I filed down the support pin cast part of my ronins to get the motor as close to the board AND as close to the truck axle as possible. thought Ill file down only a part of it to give you a feeling of how much material you can take off the truck. didnt dare to go much further cause I expected to see the support pin plastic cup any second. if you dare to go further, show some pictures! :smile:

I flattened the rest and polished it slightly by hand for a smooth, but matte look. :slight_smile:

8 Likes

really nice handwork. looks really sleek.

This tip is amazing! I’m doing the same thing this weekend on my Never Summer Reaper and will remove the risers in order to get a lower stance.

Thanks @whitepony

1 Like

hehe, sometimes its just the little things … :smile:

guess wheelbite is a very common problem for us, since we use very large wheels. most topmount boards i came across work up to 76mm and require risers for larger wheels. i expect to see a lot of new wheel wells in the future!! :grinning:

1 Like

changed a few details - coated the wheel wells with black resin because I know how much crap the wheels will throw at the board. also changed all screws with all matte black screws to make them less noticeable. finally, I added 3x 4mm gold connectors with sugru to the rear enclosure for the loop “ignition” key + charging. basically I really just need to add a motor pulley + belt and I could go. Im really proud, its by far the best looking board Ive ever built up. :nerd:

motor is mighty close to the support pin, just doesnt touch the board and juuust passes the heat sinks of he vesc by millimeters! :slight_smile:

the 6ball swiss bearings have the matching color to the enertion motor :smile:

14 Likes

What resin did you use? I was thinking of coating the raw wood bottom of my deck as well but have no idea what to use.

the resin I use for laminating, its sturdy and flexible black glossy finish like the latest @MasterCho pics :slight_smile:

quick question :smiley: I have the same setup as you for spot welding. We might even have the same car/motorcycle battery charger. Does yours output 12v/6v and 9 Amps ? Not that it matters since we use the power cap for discharge… Does your battery charger also have a slot for the fuse ? If so, what fuse are you using ? I have 30A fuses here but they burn through after a couple welds…

Hi, what type of enclosure mounting hardware you are using?