[Raptor Dual] One motor starts breaking. (short in windings) Solution found

Take a look at the windings, all 3 in contact with each other and the aluminum of the motor. If I compare this to my good one it’s exactly the same.I can still do motor detection trough the BDLC tool though… It just shuts down my battery (thank god for safety circuits)

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I’m not sure what I’ve done. Which makes this still a problem…

I played with the heatshrink and put the wires as nice as possible without disconnecting anything. I put the remote on my second vesc and tested again. It’s working again !!! Next thing I did is soldered the two vesc’s together again ( master/ slave connection) alligned everything as it should. Both motors up and running again. Just did a small test-drive of a kilometer. Like nothing ever happened…

So what’s the cause of this short exactly (as a hit on my wheels, obviously not motor, could trigger it…

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Seems like a VESC related problem…or at least I’m hoping it has nothing to do with the motor…

Could it be the connection of the reciever to that other vesc. You woukd think its the vesc. I know the connection between motor and vesc is an issue. The soldering may look right, but not. The da, biard just gets a pounding on ridges. i for ine dont ride on cross timber decking. I know you shouldnnt have to worry about it, but its hard to ride over anyway with the vibration. Glad yourve fixed it yourself. Well you cab make another board with the motors your getting. Did Enertion support help you at all?

I’ve only been concentrating on the motor, since the VESC part is so tightly glued. Will try a definite solution and then I will do some serious testing, I will go to that same bump again and see if I can reproduce it. But as for now. Everything is pointing in the direction of the wires entering the motor, where some smaller stranded wires came loose, it’s either that or the shaking rubbed the enamel off the copper.

So I found the problem, described in my post above. It’s a combination of the motor wires being able to move freely at the motor entrance and the large amount of copper inside the motor underneath the coils. Some of the stranded wires were broken from the vibrations and rubbing against each other.

So the solution. (Has been tested thoroughly by myself, hence why this post comes in so late)

Rubber isolation spray I’ve used:

Without disconnecting anything (since the raptor is nicely glued tight), pushed back the wires inside the motor and coated them in rubber.

After the coating, pushed back the wires in original place:

Pulled the triple heat-shrink back, and glued it tight in position with a hot glue gun.

Put the motor back together and on the raptor. Adding cable management to the wires so they are more stiff and can’t move anymore. And replaced the Enertion paperclips with cable ties secured under the raisers.

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So I swapped out the motor today. Got everything as smooth as possible again (motorwires as in the pictures above) So I decided to go for a test-run.

Seriously minding everything that makes the board vibrate (cobblestones, sidewalk pavements) and after an hour, the heat-shrink was loosely again outside the motor and the wheel was shorting again. I took pictures of the surface. I seriously can’t be the only one with this problem

I’ll have to contact @carl.1 again…

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I had this Problem too, pushed it back in and used a cable tie.

It works for now, lets see how long^^

I get that, but what’s so perfect about my right motor then? Could it be the vesc and coincidence? Geting kinda mad at the problem right now

I had the same problem with one motor in my Raptor Dual. Enertion sent me a replacement motor quickly, at no charge. But I’m impatient, so in the meantime I used JB Weld to separate and insulate the shorting phase wires. Seemed to work; I haven’t installed the replacement motor yet. I haven’t been skating a lot recently, though; not big mileage since my repair.

Anyway, yeah, you’re not the only one to have this trouble…

I think it is luck that you got one good. Seems like there is a Monday batch out there.

Well, it got even better. The vesc from that motor doen’t give any output anymore. I’ve heatshrinked the motor like it should. it’s working on the other vesc. I can connect to it with the BLDC-tool, but motor detection fails and nothing is happening when I throttle. What should I check on the vesc ? Or what is probably broken on it ?

Any burn marks on the DRV?

At first didn’t see anything, now i doublechecked there is a small burn on the drv… Is that an expensive component and is it replacable without programming?

Dammit !

If your soldering skills (hot air) allow it. The chip is something around 8€

Just replace it and with a bit of luck it will work flawlessly again(if nothing else is fried).

I have this problem too(board breaks randomly when riding) . All the wires are touching each other on the inside and moves freely when wiggling them around (doing so causes the motor to sometimes go bananas). One of the wires has gone slightly black (burned). Contacted enertion support 1.5 weeks ago and no response yet. Ping @carl.1.

If it’s not the remote it’s the motor or some other shit. When this gets fixed the batteries will probably catch on fire and burn the whole thing to ashes.

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I feel you, mine has spent more time on the bench tweaking and repairing then actually cruzin’. Still, it’s one of the best on the market. These are first batches, you have to expect some child deseases, giving them a chance to learn from those mistakes. I’ve been helped everytime, sometimes it takes a couple days. I can’t imagine what a chaos his garage must be at this point when he has to get all those shipments out.

As for trying to help you (on the short run): Do you have a little bit of electricity skills? (please don’t be offended, I just don’t know your background) So you have the motor removed. Good, You have all the cir-clips removed as well, so now push it open, removing the bell and rotor from the stator. If your bullet connectors are still connected, give them a little twink and they should just pop out of the back of the VESCs that have been glued in. Get yourself the right size of heatshrink and push it as far as you can over the exposed copper wires inside so they are nicely isolated. This way they can’t short anymore and this part of your problem is fixed. If you have a dual, do it for the other motor as well, since this will go the same road as this one.

Contact enertion support again, replying on the previous support mail with a kind reminder. They will get back to you as soon as they can, I promise. But given his wife just gave birth and all the backorders coming in from the VESC’s that just arrived, give em some time to catch up… I’m in the same boat with my vesc DRV thats fried, but I’m sure I will get response before the end of the week.

do you have another motor to try on for the braking issues? Mine was like that and it was my VESC. Kept riding slowly, braking randomly by itself (more like stuttering), and it completely has no response but there were still lights and NO RED error flashes either. Friend replaced some parts and fixed my VESC.

Well the jiggling the wires around causes the same thing in the bench and the wire is burnt inside the motor. Also smells kinda funny when doing so. Pretty sure that’s the problem. No other VESC available at this time unfortunately.

Yeah, actually I was on my way to try and fix it today but lacked the tool required to get the small screws out of the motor. Probably should be possible but it’s not like I wanna risk fixing it crappy myself vs. getting a good working one.