Just bought:
x2 Maytech 6355 170kv waterproof motors TB micro remote x2 16 tooth motor pulleys x2 44 tooth wheel pulleys x50 Samsung 18650-25R 2500 mAh cells Bestech BMS dual FOCBOX mount from BKB
This is starting to get real!
just a little more to buy then full assembly can begin!
ok guys I’ve come to a crossroads I want to keep the fl(s)exy Fattail but all the negative hype around flexy eboards has me questioning it more than ever.
So my current thoughts are:
-Keep Fattail, just build it and if its not working out just swap to different deck. I kind of like this idea as I was always planning on building something that could be swapped to another deck “easily”
-Buy Arbor Highground: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARBOR-Longboard-Deck-HIGHGROUND-36-GT-ICON-DOWNHILL/362135163668?_trkparms=pageci%3Aed7c9a1a-2c4d-11e8-9789-74dbd1805a9d|parentrq%3A43e32c611620ad4b37117aeefff5672f|iid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236 Theres a sale right now on ebay so I can get one for only $70
-buy DB coreflex crossbow (flex 3): https://www.daddiesboardshop.com/db-coreflex-crossbow-longboard-deck-flex-3 Seems like a nice in-between. I like the shape and the fact that it might still have a little mild flex to it.
For reference I have a boosted Dual+ with a modded drive gears and 97mm’s to hit 25+ and love the feel of it. However, this board will be a little faster at 29+ mph
I will tell you that I have a Arbor Highground and it is one of my favorite decks. Its so comfortable I’m thinking of calling that build “The Couch” 
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I have heard a lot of good things about the highground and I do like the asymmetricalness of it. I ride in NYC though how do you find it handles rougher pavement? I would still run the 107mm F1’s so that would probably soak up alot of it?
I’d probably run a 1/2’’ shock pad too if I went the stiff downhill board route
Im my experience it’s not really the deck itself that mitigates the vibrations of rough pavement so much, but rather the wheels, shock pads and bushings. Don’t get me wrong, you will feel more vibration through a 10 ply rigid deck than 7 ply flex deck, but most 9 ply decks are pretty close.
I have some pretty rough pavement were I skate too, although not as bad as yours. I mostly run either @psychotiller 6 shooters (numies) or 90mm 75a Abec 11 Flywheels. Both doa good job. The Flywheels are better, in my opinion, with a rubber shock pads.
You know what for $70 I’ll buy the deck and see how I like it. I’ll rename the title of this thread lol.
I think you will be happy with it. My only issue is the lack of cutouts, the Vugenhausen are little deeper making for less possibility of wheel bite, but its enough.
My only issue with the highground is the concave is pretty deep so my front foot would feel like my toes were being folded back onto my the top of my foot…if that makes any sense
It is pretty deep, but it makes easy to do deep carves and slide…tons of grip.
It may be my clown feet as well…i always had wide ass boards…there’s a reason most of the pros are average to smaller in stature
I’m only a size 9 so this board should be a good pivot for me
I run a 12s4p 30q cells with Dual 6374 107mm wheels and 16/36 gear ratio and I top out at 41mph with these gears and get 18-20 mile range riding hard most of the ride if I go easy I’ve gotten 30mile range and I’m a heavy guy. So I think you are under estimating your planned set up.
Maybe take a look at this deck:
http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/new-wood-and-carbon-decks-group-buy/43245
my gearing is gong to be 16/44 and at 85% efficiency I would get around 29mph. But your are right about my range, sounds like I’ll get way more than 12-15 (which isn’t a bad thing ha!)
Small update.
The new deck came in. So far I do like it, little worried about whet bite, already wana cut it or something. Also got the drive and wheel pulleys in, BKB pulleys are choice. Motors should be here within a week, cells show up Monday, FOCBOXs are probably less than 2 weeks away, and to try and combat the terrors of wheel bite a 1/2” rubber riser. Need to buy BMS, on/off switch, and decide if I’m spot welding this battery together or if I’m outsourcing. Also need to figure out the exact belt to run the htd325’s didn’t fit. Bought some htd375’s hope they workout.
Where does everyone get this belts from? I found one site with a slew of 5m belts but their shipping is always $25 no matter how many you buy!
Deck pics:
Looks good, get risers 
More updates and some questions:
Got motors mocked up:
To do so I needed to put 5 speed washers on the inside of each of the rear truck. So the question is, am I going to die because of that? I needed to for clearance reasons, the motors would touch if I didn’t. Pics of effects of 5 washers on the inside:
Is that nut on there enough or are my wheels gunna fly off?
pics of wheel pulley to motor mount clearance:
Also I got 1/2” rubber risers:
All my tight clearance woes could be fixed with thinner mounts or wider trucks. I’d prefer wider trucks but the only trucks I could find wider than my 10” caliber II’s were those wide ass trampa trucks but I don’t think they’d work out for this as I think they work best with the trampa upturned front and rear mounting points.
So to recap I’m hoping everyone could give me feedback on if I’m dumb for the 5 speed washer thing. If so what motor mounts or trucks should I get to fix it? Also where do you guys buy motor keys? The maytech motors didn’t come with any…
Other notes: I’ve got the Samsung cells, mini controller, and dual focbox mount. The focboxs are currently in transit, as are some longer belts to go with the idler set up.
Need to buy: BMS, charger, fuses, motor keys, power button and battery indicator.
It doesn’t look like the threads are making it to the nylon inside the nut. If not then that will come off with vibrations, either get slim nylon lock nuts or flip that nut around so it goes through the nylon first.
I still have one speed washer between the nut and bearing on the outside of the wheel. I 100% need that right? If it went straight bearing to nut that’d get me more treads but probably not the best for the life of the bearing.
Do you have bearing spacers?
