Nice. I will have to pick up some of that for my connections as well.
You should if you plan to run it in wet conditions. Did a lot of reading up on that stuff, a lot of people use it for their electronics in RC sea planes, with it they can literally drive their planes underwater, even saltwater.
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Damn…I was just mentioning in my thread how wet it can get here and how I want to ride every day. Ordering a can now! That should help. I also plan to do a similar encasement as you, but with a custom enclosure from Psychotiller. I was thinking of laying down a thin sheet of rubber (neoprene?) and then monthing everything to that, cutting the edge to sit perfectly inside the case and then cutting a small channel for a gasket around that to seal in the flats of the enclosure. I think with that setup and some of that spray I should be good. Did you just dip all your connections, or did you spray it right on everything lightly?
Oh yea, just read that as well 
I just dropped the electronics in a can of it letting it soak for a few minutes.
I’d suggest doing it in a well ventilated room, preferably far away from where you live, it’s gonna stink something awful
And it will take a few days for it dry enough to handle afterwards.
Don’t necessarily have to dip the connectors, but people say it doesn’t hurt.
Oh, and you’ll never ever ever ever ever be able to glue something on to anything you’ve treated
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Haha, all good to know. There’s just some dichotomy in my brain about dropping $200 worth of electronics into any container of liquid…Will I ever need to glue anything to them? I hope not…I am a total newb with these types of electronics. I have worked with building plenty of PC’s but the worst you have to usually worry about there is static discharge.
Tell me about it, i just had to trust the flier people to know what they were talking about 
I havn’t seen any info on coating the batteries though, so for now i’ve left mine as is.
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Hot glue is incredibly useful for securing and connection…I know many people use it to insulate/isolate VESC pins and soldered pieces. Sounds like with the electronics proofing you just want to double check that what you got is nailed down as solid as possible before taking it for the swim in the goo.
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Okay, I was wondering if that was actually hot glue I was seeing all over and not some electrical compound. Thanks for that. I suppose it makes sense for covering up stuff that just needs to stay together that you won’t need to access much.
I removed all the hot glue before dipping them and made some rails on the bottom of the enclosure to be able to strap the vescs down with Velcro.
I can take a new photo of how it looks if you want.
I would like that, and appreciate it greatly. Right now I am in the stage of just getting a deck/enclosure figured out so I am throwing all the ideas around in my head about how to best arrange it all. So, I will take all the info I can.
This is how i fasten my vescs, the bottom of the enclosure is sheets of polystyrene, which made it really easy to build the raised platforms. Using scraps left over i just glued them together using smaller pieces between the plate and the bottom to get some room for the velcro to go under. Polystyrene and glue for plastic models works really great, melts the parts together creating a permanent bond.
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Great info! Thanks for the photo. I like that securing method and I suppose it also helps keep it insulated from grounding anything out etc…will definitely be utilizing a similar method.
So yea, i managed to bust up the motors, minor setback. Will rewind them for fun and science.
Whaaaat? What happened to them man?
It’s in this thread.
http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/one-r-spec-motor-hotter-than-the-other/1780
After that minor setback it’s now back on the road with a freshly wound motor (and sore thumbs on my end) Unfortunatly it’s only gonna be a single motor for a while. When the motor shorted out it seems to have damaged the vesc as well, is getting a drv error when trying to run the motor now. Luckily the second vesc still works fine, so that’s something.
Gotta find someone that can replace the dead chip in sweden.
Still, it runs fine enough on one motor, but i miss the crazy acceleration of the duals.
So after about a 5 mile testrun it didn’t run as fast as i expected, so it got me thinking, never thought about the original wind being delta. So after some more calculations it made a whole lot more sense. I terminated my winding as star, so i’s approx 140 kv instead of 240 as i thought, which seems to be correct according to my top speed test and using the gearing calculator.
Oh well, 30km/h is still good enough for getting to know the board properly. WIth duals i should be able to switch to a bigger motor pulley without problems for a bit more speed.
I can now say that CorrosionX works as intended, got attacked by a downpour on my way to work today, pretty much drenched the electronics and they still ran like dry.
The funny thing is that the waterproof powerbutton I got was not so waterproof, it is now a permanent on button
Time to switch it out for a loop key.
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are those 184 trucks?
I think so, they’re standard calibers.