Official TRAMPA DIY build thread - Street and Urban Carve

No, its pretty obvious you need to segment stuff if you want the flex. The slitting pattern is nothing special, its just that you overlay two patterns and shift them to the left and right.

For an MTB I would only drop in the slits on the side of the Box.

Frank

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Sorry for the delay BTW, due to a shit storm I couldn’t really focus on the Board. I think now there is less brown spray in the skies and I will continue to finish the HW and post everything.

Cheers, Frank

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Wer bist du, Mann?! :wink: You keep everyone waiting :slight_smile:

Well, we moved our business last weekend, went on a holiday with my family and tomorrow I’ll fly to Sweden to help Benjamin a bit. He had an accident and can’t stand up. The board needs to wait…

Frank

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Wow! Seems like you’ve really got a LOT on your head now! And I sure do hope all turns out all right with Benjamin!!! Wish him a quick recovery from us here! :worried: :worried: :worried:

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I just started my Street Carver build and I’m closely following some of these procedures but not all of them, however I have several questions:

  1. Why have you done a center wooden back bone?, it won’t add rigidity to the battery modules or protect them against impacts at all, well maybe just if the impact is on the dead center but the majority of impacts should be absorbed by the enclosure itself.

  2. Why did you mount the battery in a horizontal array, the flexible cable needs to run diagonaly between packs, stressing the nickelstrip, specificaly on this particular spot:

I don’t get why you didn’t mount them horizontally and just connect each pack with flat cable.

  1. Why did you choose a 11S battery layout?, I know you did it to take advantage of a empty spot as you are going to be runing single motor and you weren’t planing to install 2 VESCs 6, but I guess the VMS can be easily preprogrammed to run 11S?, but for the rest of us using reagulartechnology it would not be easily found.

Sorry for all the questions, I guess you have a point for all of them, just need to understand why are you doing certain procedures

The wooden back bone: The Box is very stiff at the edge, but in the centre it can flex a bit, since its a flat surface. The wooden back bone will prevent hat the centre of the box can deform. Edge, Center, Edge Suport!

Cables: The cables twist and swallow the deformation in torsion of the cable. Works a treat. My Cable is very very flexible, 1036 Strands

11s4P: just as good as 10 or 12S, 13S Why not! There is no reason to go for straight numbers and I want to have the space to experiment with a BMS, and other devices we plan to make in future.

Frank

I should some time this week to move forward on my build !

@trampa Frank, what distance between splits did ya use ? are the cut lines based on the 4P 18650 blocks connected to each other ?

https://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/3X/e/9/e9fa8ad1c9988c4801a9ef2b6a96cc2f32d3fc47.jpg

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I’ll measure that out for you. Box is 61cm I think and slits sit in a regular pattern. Basically I just divided the length by the segments. Easy…

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got it - thanks.

I think you only need the small slits in the side. Give this a try first!

Frank

How are you charging 11s and are you using a bms? Most chargers and bms are made for 10s or 12s

Hey, Frank! What length M4 repair threads have you used? Because on their site there’s like a million options (or to be absolutely exact: 5 options :P) Thanks!

8mm is fine =2D

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Hey Frank, what’s the best saw to cut this material? A metal or a fine wood saw?

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I went with a very fine metal one.

Fine saw with triangular teeth.

Do I have a cardboard model if I buy a TRAMPA battery tray?

You get the solid tray, just follow my thread if you want to use it this way.

Frank

Any change that the enclosure could be made a little higher ? With the bestech BMS, it’s a little tight. Same goes for the focboxes. Not much Air between enclosure and focbox / BMS