Thanks @chaka. In BLDC 2.8 there are settings for Positive and Negative “ramping time constant” The default settings are .9 and .3 respectively. How will changing these impact control? Would we increase or decrease them to modify sensitivity? I think it would be to increase ramping time to decrease sensitivity. Do you have a sense of how much they should be edited?
Increasing the time will make it feel “softer”
Vedder addressed this here: https://youtu.be/G8f0xg7DNmM?t=154
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Thanks @chaka I’ll try these out and report back. I’ll start w 2.0 and 1.0. At some point, someone needs to author a configuration guide for VESC. Maybe it’s a good community project for everyone on this forum!
I adjusted mine to 10 on the positive ramping and though very smooth, it wasn’t quick enough. I was about to try 5 but I shorted out the nunchuck receiver… lol. Picked up a gt2b and it’s way smoother than the nunchuck. It’s huge so I will eventually mod it to a smaller case.
Don’t be afraid to set it higher than 2 on the positive. You may have to give it an initial pushoff though but once you are moving, it’s great.
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Ramping is really only delaying the problem a little. The problem is that it would still be impossible to hold your thumb at say 35% throttle. you would still basically have to modulate on and off which is a horrible way to control anything! What we need is a “full speed (or) current @ “x” % throttle input” setting. So many people seem to be using the Kama, surely there not all using it like this. Might have to get an RC receiver and use PPM? I really like the Kama, and i know its just a number value somewhere causing the problem!
I gotta ask, have you ridden it yet?
A little yes, but its pretty much unridable… Breaks are certainly useless.
Once you dial back your max current and add a bit of throttle ramping you find it easy to ride at a constant speed.
If you switch to an rc controller aka ppm, you can use duty cycle and have total control but it is much more raw and unregulated.
do you hold down the C button while riding?
No I have not tried the C button yet, but how would this effect things?
The c button rules! But you have to let off of it before you can brake. With it pressed you would just be adjusting cruise control.
If i buy a Wiiceiver can i use the PWM settings instead, Is that how it works?
This is weird, I’m also running a nunchuck without problems and I have the default time ramping settings set. Have you tried re-flashing the firmware and doing a fresh setup of the VESC ? As you’re both using different hw versions I’d be surprised it was the VESC itself. You could also try a second Nunchuck/receiver combo. They’re cheap on amazon and if it diesn’t work you could just return it.
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@Ross If you buy Wiiceiver you connect to the PPM pins just like you would with an ordinary RC rx. You would use the PPM app settings instead of the Nunchuck application. But it adds another layer of complexity for no real gain.
Wiiceiver will not solve your problem. You need to use the perpetual steez button (C) to engage your steez and then control acceleration with the thumb stick by flicking it up or down for deceleration. To brake simply release the perpetual steez button and gently bring the thumb stick back.
watch me in this video and pay attention to my thumb.
PROBLEM SOLVED!!! 
I reflashed both VESCs with the SAME firmware as already installed (2.8). I then chose the same CAN, general and nuchuck settings on each VESC the same as before. The only thing i did differently was run the auto motor parameter detection immediately after reflashing. I had not yet run the auto detection when i was having the problems, but parameters were so close that i don’t think that this was the issue. But yeah that worked…
Anyway, this thing is ridiculously powerful!!! Soooooo much better than i expected! I just reduced the max amperage to 40 to each motor (from 60 default) so ill see how that goes. There is no way i could have possibly used all the torque before. Breaking was also basically flawless, but no more than half could be applied before locking the wheels. So i have reduced breaking current to -30 amps (from 60 amps default)
By the way I’m running;
Gravit Drop Kick 43" (1/2" drop deck) Batteries 12S (2 x Turnigy Zippy 6S 4500mah 45C in series) Caliber standard trucks 3/16 shock pads (nice n low) 2 x VESC 4.1 With heat sinks mounted to each FET Custom enclosure with active cooling (printed in PLA) 5v 0.5 amp centrifugal cooling fan (50mm in diameter) 2 x Enertion r-spec 190 KV 63-55s Torqueboards V1 rotatable mounts Alien Drive Systems Abec 11 hub drives (36t)
Works very nicely together indeed!
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good to see you got it sorted!
(I still recommend the use of perpetual steez though.)
@Ross do you have a build thread on this forum w pictures? If not, I bet everyone would love to see your build. I’m interested in the custom enclosure in particular.
Above you’ve noted that you adjusted the motor and brake currents; do you have any advice on how to dial them in? Right now I’m using the default brakes and 70A (based on the max current my motor can handle). My build thread is here
Haven’t taken her for a run since the adjustments but i will tonight and let you know how i go.
No build tread yet, still got mu ugly test batteries strapped to the top of the deck :-\ But i just had 4 x Nano-tech A-spec 3S 4500mah 65 - 130c arrive 
They are so slim (19.5mm) going to look awesome! Ill take photos once its finished. How do you upload photos to this forum? i cant figure it out.