Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

thanks so much that could have been costly:tired_face:

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How wide shrink wrap should I buy for 10s5p flat with 2 rows? 180-200mm?

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I have seen some people using this Carbon like sticker on the deck botoms, the sticker looks a bit thicker that just regular one from ebay, maybe someone knows what that is and where to get some? Best be in Europe.

These are bleeding resistors and this is how a BMS works in most cases. Every resitor is for one cell/cellpair and if the first cellpair is full, it starts bleeding the energy off in heat, while other cells are still charging. The more cells are full, the hotter it gets, because the more resistors do their job. This process runs until every cell is full :slight_smile:

So the more parallel cells you have, the hotter it gets? I hope I can solve dat shit with a heat sink because I am sure if they get any hotter, the solder will start to melt.

Does anyone have a link for ~1mm adheasive heat pad?

It gets hotter the higher your charging current is. DoesnÂŽt matter how much parallel cells you use. The more you put in, the more it has to pass out in heat. Can you still touch it? Than its ok, is it higher, you should test it with a IR Thermometer

Aha dat makes sense. It’s rated for 10A charge current and I am charging at 4a
wonder how in the world they expect their bms to handle that without exploding.

So i have 2 260kv motor how high can i go with batteries? My plan was to go 2 260s 2 foc 9s2p. Where is my mistake?

I’m currently running 50’ Caliber II trucks and would like to better stabilize it for faster speed. Thinking about buying this wedge kit: https://www.amazon.com/Angled-Wedge-Rubber-Riser-8mm-14mm/dp/B00JXVG3WG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_468_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2J5MPXFBFKJPTXDN77VW

A few questions:

  1. I’m assuming I would only wedge the rear, and not the front truck.

  2. If so, which direction would I wedge the rear? Thicker side towards the front of the truck or thicker towards the rear? Does anyone have a picture of a wedged rear truck that I can take a look at?

Thank you!

8S to stay under 60000erpm

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Hey there guys, I have a slight problem

In order to fit my battery pack, ESC and Fuse box into my enclosure, I have to slightly rise it off the board. Is there anyway I can rise it but still keep it water proof?

It’s a carbon fibre enclosure. 10S3P battery.

“waterproof” means it works fine when it’s full of brine. “water resistant” means it keeps the water from getting inside. I think you mean the second one, but it’s best to be both

Does cells in parallel need one balance wire each or would it be enough to with one per set of parralel set? Ex a 10s4p needing only 1 balance wire to each of the 4p?

1 per set of parallel will do. Just treat the set of parallel cells as 1 cell

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How much do you need to raise it by?

For those of us with the 11s3p pack with the Charge only battery pack, what stuff/precautions do we have to do since 11s Dischargable BMS don’t seem to exist. I’m worried that one day im ganna be braking going down hill and I’m ganna go boom.

You are able to use a 12s BMS

Hi noob here with a noob question. Can you join 2 x enetion 10s4p Samsung 30q battery pack together to make 10s8p or would that more likely be a 20s4p pack? Or would I have to pull the pack apart completely and rewire the entire thing to make 10s8p?

Hello, everybody.I wanted to know about the process of vaccum bagging carbon fiber.I just saw the whitepony’s carbon jet spud build.But really didnt understand how to vaccum bag carbon fiber.I would be grateful if somebody would write a detailed description with steps.

You can make it 10s8p provided you use a parallel connector.

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