Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

I have a voltmeter for my 6s lipo and 23.1V = 67% seems to be a little bit odd for me.

So a relative simple question but it seems to be that ther is nowhere really clear answer. what is the secure minimal voltage level on a 6s lipo.

That depends on how long you want your batteries to last. I usually go down to 3.6v. My hobbycharger let’s you choose discharge between 3 and 3.3v. The lower you go the less they will last

These things say the voltage for charge and discharge can be adjusted? Anyone have a clue how?

I think you’ve been lied to. Where does it say that?

To me this says it’s adjustable. Maybe I’m crazy

I think those are factory set and they just copied their description.

If i want to built 10s2p battery pack, should i go with 40A BMS or 60A

If i want to built 10s3p battery pack, should i go with 60A BMS or 80A

Will be using Samsung 30Q

Any advice guys, thank you

30Q hace a 20A discharge limit. So 2p is 40A and 3p is 60A. Regarding your question. If the bms had trusty values go at least for that

Hi krloz thanks for your input, for make my question clear, can use 60A bms for 2p, or maybe 80A bms for 3p, or it has to be exact 40A for 2p and 60A for 3p and also 80A for 4p…

@XTLA Thats what i meant with at least. If your esc can control you are nor pulling more amps than the maximum of your batteries go with a higher bms and it will run nice. I’d you can’t limit amps then maybe a bms of the sane rating would protect your batteries from high discharge. But then you would be getting cut out on high acceleration and that is not good either

I got it bro, thanks a lot

I need new bearings for on my wheels, any recommendations?

Zealous are some of the best I’ve used since you cant get mercury bearings anmymore

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For electric skateboards, bearing choice is nowhere near as important as it is for push boards. You basically have 2 routes to take – ceramic for resisting corrosion in brine and water, or normal steel. Paying for high-quality bearings is almost a waste of money – because you can either put the extra money into the drivetrain, where the ROI will be much, much, much, much higher, or just replace them when they are worn-out. We don’t need slick and smooth bearings to get us rolling further, because we have motors for that, and they are a few orders of magnitude more effective.

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Thank you for the comment, didn’t think of that. What bearings do you have?

Mostly Bones Redz or any other cheap 608 bearing. One board has Neal Precision Ceramic bearings for riding through snow and brine. This was after a few normal bearings seized on me. Put steel in saltwater and end results not great.

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Zealous is actually cheaper then Bones Redz and has built ins so no need for spacers or speed rings.

I don’t want built-in spacers. Also I want all my bearings to be interchangeable on all the boards. I may use different amounts of spacing. Also, the spacers don’t wear out; no reason to replace them.

Why would you use different amount of spacing in the wheels. Generally every longboard wheel has the same area inside the wheel that the spacer would take up in between the bearings. If you get all the same bearing all of your bearings will be interchangable. Zealous bearings are generally 3 buck cheaper then bones have better lube and better shields.

Zealous are 14.00

bones are 17.95.

So almost 4 bucks more that in your own words can go to the drivetrain.

That’s an apple-answer if I’ve ever seen one – simply an excuse to make things inflexible and crappier.

This is a DIY forum. Don’t worry about it :wink: