Noob question thread! šŸ˜€ ask your questions here!

hey guys ā€¦ recent lurker of the page and have decided to bite the bullet and buy parts for my own project

just wondering what you guys do for overload protection on the batteries ? do you put fuses in for short circuit and over current of the vesc?

I will be using hub motors when they arrive

here is my list of parts so far

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dual-motors-longboard-skateboard-controller-with-remote-ESC-Substitute/302332736118?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=601169309748&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://hobbyking.com/de_de/turnigy-5000mah-5s-20c-lipo-pack.html X2 in series

Any advice is appreciated

Your absolute max should be 130A and untick Multiple ESCs over Can, if you run single motor. Also it seems that you havnĀ“t done a proper motor detection - your values are a bit to straight. Do a new motor detection, hit Apply and after that Write configuration, lotĀ“s of people do miss the last past. Then hit the road again and everything should be fine :wink:

I have done a detection but I guess Iā€™ll do it again. Those other two things I havenā€™t messed with at all so Iā€™ll give that a try. Thanks for the feedback

Hey I just got my first motor (Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6374-192kv) from Hobbyking.

Is it normal that I can feel a small resistance when IĀ“m turning the motor?

You should feel a considerable resistance when you have two of the three phase wires coming out of the motor shorted, otherwise if there is nothing attached and nothing shorted you shouldnā€™t feel much resistance.

Nothing shorted and nothing attached to the wires. Its not a big resistance and totally even over a complete turn but I does not feel free like for example a wheel on a truck :slight_smile:

Sounds like it should be fine you should notice way more resistance if you intentionally short the motor phase wires (with it disconnected from anything else). Been a while since my motor has been off my board but with my quad motors that are BLDC too you feel a small resistance and they tend to have a small snapping between positions as you turn them by hand.

that describes it very well! I think its all normal! Thank you for your help!

Iā€™m replacing my old 2 vesc that came with my with Focboxes can I reuse the anti spark from my old vesc with the focbox or do I need to buy an anti spark

An update to the freezing problem I was having before, I changed the recommended settings and I still had some problems. I decided to use a different tx and rx, this time using one that I know works with my rc cars. I am now experiencing rather severe blipping when riding. There are small pauses in the acceleration or braking that can put me a little off balance. I also had the board freeze again, this time at a stand still for maybe 15 seconds before regaining connection again. Also when coasting, the board would accelerate at random times for short intermittent bursts without any input from the throttle. So with all these problems, I still donā€™t feel comfortable riding, hopefully they are all related and hopefully it can be solved. Hereā€™s my new vesc settings.

All help is appreciated :relaxed:

When you check the ppm display is it consistent (pulling trigger smoothly and consistently increases percentage, letting go goes to idle pushing it to brake smoothly goes into the braking percentages)? I found when I would brake and accelerate quickly Iā€™d introduce a lot of extra noise into the receiver connection to the VESC and moving my receiver seemed to help (I also used a better shielded wire for the receiver, connection, think a ferrite bead can help to attenuate high frequency noise on the line as well)

Just by looking at the bar while the board is on the bench it appears to be ok. It looks and sounds ok when itā€™s on the bench, I guess maybe it only happens under load? However it might only be noticeable under load. I havenā€™t pluged it into the computer just after riding while itā€™s having the blipping problems though.

Yeah I was able to see all the noise on the line with an oscilloscope but on the PPM display it just seemed to make the values come through a bit jerky and if I slammed it on full brakes and full acceleration quickly enough while bench testing I could force it to lock up. When itā€™s under load youā€™ll be pulling more amps and therefore making more electrical noise, but could also just be a loose connection between the receiver and VESC, is the connection soldered? if not would suggest putting a dab of hot glue around the JST connector to hold it into the VESC well to eliminate that from possible issues. Would be good when it cuts out to see if your receiver still has power or if the VESC itself is resetting or just the receiver (or neither and it just lost signal between the controller and receiver).


Edit could also just solder the receiver connection to the VESC to be sure that connection is staying solid (probably good to just solder the wires directly to the receiver pins and cover with heatshrink to avoid needing to remove the male header pins)

Iā€™ll probably have to try the hot glue and test that first when I get some time and then try to solder it after. Itā€™ll be a pain in the butt because Iā€™ve got the vesc tucked in to the enclosure quite well and I donā€™t intend to keep using this same tx. Soldering and desoldering might be a bit tricky

So I went with what you said, I soldered on a servo extension cable so that way the pins on the vesc are easy to get to. I plugged the other end of the cable straight in to the receiver and it fit snug so I decided to leave that without glue or solder. To my surprise, it fixed everything. I thought for sure it would have been something more complex. Iā€™m thoroughly impressed that you figured that out based off my description. The JST connector must have just been vibrating around/off of the pins on the vesc too much. Also, now the pins are easy to get to for when I get a new tx. Thanks for all your help :grin:

Iā€™m a noob looking for parts for my electric longboard. Iā€™m more interested in range, rather than top speed (>25-30 km/h seems very scary and dangerous to me). Is there a way to increase the range at the expense of top speed? It seems to me that regardless of how you arrange your batteries, the range stays the same. Is it possible/advisable to program the VESC to limit the top speed of the board?

Also: do I need risers? How much do I need to raise the deck from the ground? Is it advisable to use angled 1.5-1 cm risers? My retailer only has those or 3mm flat risers (which he can give me for very cheap)

Range is nearly only affected by the size of your battery. All you can do is affect torque or speed with your gearing. (to keep it simple - there are more factors involved like a balanced setup itself, but letĀ“s not think about that for now)

Vesc is capable of limiting top speed - ERPM setting.

If you need risers depends on what deck youĀ“ll be using, which wheels, if you want a smoother, dampened ride and so on. Build the rest of your board and then decide how much you need to rise this thing from the street :wink:

Thanks for the answer! Iā€™ll be using 83 mm wheels, caliber II 50Ā° trucks and this deck:

Iā€™d like to get a smooth ride. The only reason why I want to chose now is to save some money on shipping

1 Like

risers are under 10 ā‚¬ or $ so shouldnĀ“t be a problem :wink: If you wanna make sure to safe a few bucks, just order some with your other stuff and see if you need them.

How fast am I supposed to plug in the xt90s loop key??

I have seen many threads saying they do a small plug then push it all the way inā€¦