Noob question thread! šŸ˜€ ask your questions here!

Spot welder Soldering iron Nickel strips Foam insulation 18650 insulators Glue gun or silicone gun 10 awg cable 22 awg 2.1mm charging port On/off switch Heat shrink Kapton tape

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add to thatā€¦

  • BMS
  • balance lead/connectors if they donā€™t come with the BMS
  • mosfet board (vedder switch or other type) if the BMS doesnā€™t have one built in to plug your on-off switch into
  • wire strippers/cutters

Kapton tape is great for its dielectric properties but if you want to keep wires in place with a vengence (and if you donā€™t need a high dielectric tape in that particular location ) before you slip the whole pack into the shrink tube, i would get a roll of Gorilla tape. I have started using it along the nickel edges to add padding to it before running balance leads down the side when i need to, and small strips to neatly tie down the balance leads, and also to add some toughness/padding to the total package.

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To add to both previous posts fish paper

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Is there a thread with info on how to build your own pack. I keep just seeing little bits of info here and there on how to build a proper pack.

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Do you have a picture of this?

I am interested

This is probably the best

Thanks for the thought but that thread is more for battery selection than the actual steps of building one (thatā€™s what Iā€™m looking for).

Next dumb question for the day!

When connecting two FOCboxes together, should I use a CAN bus cable, or a PPM splitter?

Looks like they recommend a CAN-BUS cable. Does it really matter as long as data is transferred between the two? Would there be signal degredation by using the PWM splitter?

Thanks!

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use two receivers, the split ppm-canbus debate is way too much and youā€™d never get an answer lolā€¦

Two receivers? You mean pair a single remote to both receivers, and have a single receiver for each FOCbox? Iā€™ve got a Mini Remote which only comes with one receiver, to get another iā€™d have to spend $30 probably, and iā€™d have a spare remoteā€¦

Seems like thereā€™s gotta be a better option?

i mean either is fine tbh.

Just to be clear, a dual 6374 esk8 has about the same amount of power as this 6 person car

(Iā€™ve ridden both)

They arenā€™t weak by any stretch of the imagination :stuck_out_tongue:

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6355ā€™s will get you in trouble real quick also even my 200lb keister :laughing:

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Alright boys, let me know if this is scandalous, because I posted it over at a different spot, a few hours ago. Seems like this is a ā€œnoobyā€ question as well. If I shouldnā€™t ā€œdouble postā€ let me know, iā€™ll delete it.

So slightly dumb question:SK8 6374-149KV or 6374 190KV for a Trampaboard? Looks like the SK8 has more power (W), and is cheaper by like $40 when you include the sensor adapter, and looks a bit more waterproof. Iā€™m tempted to do the 149KV SK8 because of the torque to speed comparison. I donā€™t forsee myself needing to go 35mph (yet!), and added torque is always a plus! Thoughts?

By the looks if it, dual SK8ā€™s will fit on Trampaboard Vertigo trucks, is that correct?

I plan on running FOCboxes with a 12s4p battery, 66/14 gearing, anything seem wrong?

Thanks!

Nope I donā€™t think you would need an adapter for the sk8 because it has a 2.0 jst connector.

Hey b264 thanks for the reply, i have two 6368 scooter motors from a previous silly rc project (didnt work out) and they are 280 kv. What could i expect from the board with these hanging off it?

280 kv is a bit high honestly, youā€™d be limited to a 6S voltage

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Those wonā€™t perform as well as 190kv or lower motors, even if they are smaller. Two 140kv racerstar 5065 motors would be better

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thought so im running 10s 4p lithium ion. What kind of problems would i get? the motors are rated between 6s and 12s

Most of the ESC based on HW4.12 will have a max erpm of 60000 and that will exceed it