Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

Not familiar with them but the esc looks familiar from some eBay posts other forum members have posted. From what I saw they were okay but most people here go with some variation/version of the vesc for the wide configuration and relatively good software for doing said configuration to drive with various batteries and motors and ride styles (controlling acceleration and braking characteristics)

Couldn’t really say anything one way or another about the motors or batteries if you know what cells they use can pull up the datasheet or search here to see if others have used them successfully.


Same lipo 5S 5Ah is $46 at hobby king also not clear what BMS or what particular cells they use so not sure I’d trust that without getting more details.

There has been a lot of people who have been unhappy with mboards. Maybe look at torque boards if you want a total kit in the USA. You could also get parts from different vendors on here. If you are in EU I would say unik boards would be a place to get them.

Thanks you

Hey, do I need an antispark if I’m running a bypased BMS?

2 Likes

I use one with the BMS still

check out these 2 threads

AND

hello, did I understand that correctly? I have two motors (torque 6374) which can each pull a maximum of 80A. that means I need cells for my battery (10s4p) that handle 160A? at 4p 40A per cell???

thx

Sud i buy enertion focbox on sale to built single setup, or waiting for focbox unity to make dual for my second built (dillema) :smile:

Most likely, yes, you would need an antispark switch to turn the board on and off. You could use a loop key, which is cheaper, or use an led antspark switch, which looks a bit better, but it’s the more expensive option.

If you Opt for a loop key, its reccomended to splice the negative wire of the board, and not the positive wire.

With normal day to day use, pulling 80 amps from two 6374 motors would be crazy powerful… Usually, when accelerating, they would only pull a max of 40 amps from each motor, equating to 80 amps total for like five seconds, but correct me if I’m wrong because I only ride a single drive. :sweat_smile: Your average amps when riding normally would be much much lower than 80 amps though. In summary, I’m pretty sure your 10s4p battery is fine for your two motors.

Hi, about to realize my first 12S4P Samsung 30Q battery. Got some nickel welding strip - 7mm*0.30mm from NKON. My question is: how many strips do I have to spot weld on the 4 cells in parallel in order to properly manage the current? How many between the 12S packs? The idea is to use Bestech 12s HCX-D596 LI12S80A-02. Thanks in advance for your suggestions

Can I use this (gpio connectors)

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Instead of this?

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Just asking because I don’t want to leave a small part behind when ordering :slight_smile:

Ugh… I’ve been reading builds and threads for days and I’m still not %100 sure about what motor/battery combo is gonna fit my needs best.

My board current eboard is pretty much my daily driver. About 6 miles a day. 20mph top speed only last about the first mile… (ride riptide, it’s fun but meh…) Im trying to build a reliable commuter board. Live in a flat town, weigh around 200lb with my work bag. Im stuck between duel 6355 and 6374. Im leaning towards the 74 s not because of their advantage on acceleration but it’s my understanding that they run a bit cooler. And since I’m towards the heavier side of some riders and I’m using this as my main form of transportation I’d rather not push the board to its limits all the time. That being said I’ve seen a lot of people say that the 74 s really open up on 12s batteries. And as much as I want the performance from a 12s because I’m used to downhill longboarding at pretty high speeds. I’ve also seen a lot of users Express difficulties with 12’s and 10s just being more reliable and less problematic… I’d love to stay over 20mph even after battery lag. I don’t need a crazy battery range… maybe 15miles ish. Not sure what my question is lol. I’m on day 24 with no days off work and got off at 5am today.

When you figure out your question ask it. I would go with the 74s it depends on the kv rating of your motors for what battery would be best for the motors.

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Go with 74 and 12s5p or higher is what I’d do given those choices. Get focboxes. They’re proven to be good with 12s.

Don’t forget to wear at least a helmet for safety gear.

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I’m defently leaning 74s. Guess I’m just worried about running into 12s problems but also feel like I’m not getting what I could outta them without going 12.

I’m buying a better helmet for sure. I crack my last one in half bombing a hill a going +40mph. Got ran over by a Nissan Xterra and lost like a week of my memory. Being concussed sucks lol.

i got this evolve wheel gear and as you may know there is a bearing inside of it. i know that you need to cut caliber trucks in order to make room for that bearing and im not really keen on doing that modification. so do you guys think tb218 trucks would work with that gear without cutting a chunk from the hanger, considering they have 10mm longer axle than regular trucks?

Hey man, mboards have a fantastic customer service,I have purchased small items from them and shipping(to aus) is cheap and well tracked, the components are good quality and no issues so far. The items on the website do bare a striking resemblance to the diyeboards stuff and they have mixed reviews.
The owner has a youtube channel and I found the videos to be well made and very informative to new builders. links are all on the website. Diyeboards are the cheapest diy site by far though but you get what you pay for in life!! Torque boards (DIY electric) are tried tested and reliable which is why there are so many builds with their components but expect to pay a bit more.

My first build was a torqueboards/mboard collaboration and it is a beast, so much better than anything prebuilt. Good luck and look forward to fun times

Well according to recent complaints, mboards is a company to avoid