I have seen evidence of this as well, pretty recently in fact.
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How would people go about modifying the R-spec so it doesn’t cause a short? or what is the best 63xx motor to upgrade to?
With long enough shaft to run 12 or 15 mm belt?
I ran a tacon 160 on your board when I was testing the VESC. I had it geared a little tall but it would probably be perfect with the gear ratio you have now.
Board would top out around 25-28mph so it will be a little fast compared to your current setup. I want to say it will still climb ok but I honestly don’t know how it will compare since it is a larger motor.
For anyone wondering here are the systems specs on the board we are talking about: 8s lion, 16/44 tooth on 97mm wheels
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Thank you for doing all that! I’m not sure how the max current ramp setting was changed. I am not aware of changing any settings in the advanced tab other than the startup boost. I did try to rule out any problems with my settings by posting screenshots of all the settings in the original post.
It does seem likely that I have a short in the phase wires. The shrink wrap did look a little short. The motor has been ridden about 100 miles. I will make sure to keep those wires insulated when testing the new VESC.
I had checked your screen shots. They were set to default when the screen shots where taken but it was set 10X higher when I had received it. Luckily I build these gems so it isn’t a big deal to rebuild on a fresh PCB.
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Sorry to fall in in your topic but I got advised by @HH1 to take a look here.
Take a look at the windings, all 3 in contact with each other and the aluminum of the motor. If I compare this to my good one it’s exactly the same. Should I worry about my vesc drv chip beeing blown up as well? I’ve ordered 2 new spare motors already, but the Vesc would set me back months… I can still do motor detection trough the BDLC tool though… It just shuts down my battery (thank god for safety circuits)
That’s a lot of wire that’s doing nothing on top of the stator. Weird to see so much. About it shorting though…best way to tell is use an LC meter to measure the inductance as a multimeter isn’t accurate enough. 20$
I should probably have access to a one at work. Thanks for the tip.
But just for clarity. Sorry for the most logical question ever btw: But given my 2 motors are exactly the same… The 3 wires should not touch at all right? (Even if they would be treated with a isolation product, it’s still stranded wire which could make contact easily)
They can touch. They’re converted in a thin enamel.
maybe @longhairedboy can shed a bit more light on this as he is also working with this motors where you should heatshring the wires or where it is not necessary.
That’s typical. @Hummie is right about the windings being enamel coated, they can touch inside the can like that, they’re designed to do that.
What does end up happening though is the heat shrink at the end of the windings that is near the hole in the motor can ends up coming loose, and if your phase leads are moving around too much because they aren’t bunched correctly to allow movement, the part of the lead that is in the can which becomes the windings (the part clearly shown in the image above) will start to rub together. once they start rubbing, the enamel will start to rub off and chip, then you have shorts.
So when you’re done rewinding, or even just replacing your phase leads like i do on occasion with colored ones, make sure you do what you can with the heat shrink to keep those phase leads from moving around inside the can. and when you run the leads to the ESC, make sure you have slack so that when you carve there isn’t any tension on the leads. I like to curl mine in such a way that they don’t stress. Enertion does something similar on the raptors.
I’m not sure what I’ve done. Which makes this still a problem…
I played with the heatshrink and put the wires as nice as possible without disconnecting anything. I put the remote on my second vesc and tested again. It’s working again !!! Next thing I did is soldered the two vesc’s together again ( master/ slave connection) alligned everything as it should. Both motors up and running again. Just did a small test-drive of a kilometer. Like nothing ever happened…
So what’s the cause of this short exactly (as a hit on my wheels, obviously not motor, could trigger it) Should I try to put some extra glue/heatshrink on the part where the wires enter the motor so they absolutely don’t move anymore? Your thoughts on this please !
@hummie might have a better idea on what kinds of adhesives you can use to lock down wires inside a motor. But in general, it sounds like a good idea.
Well, I’m good in electromechanics. These are my first steps in DC-motors though. But if I would make those motors, the wires coming in should have a little more heatshrink on them and at least some form of strain relief, with these kind of applications with a lot of stress and movement on them.
Edit: btw, @longhairedboy, @HH1 and @Hummie. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction ! Hence the power of this forum!
Hi. I don’t remember or know if u ever wrote what makes u think u have a short. And now u don’t? Humm. Maybe u did jiggle something away from something. Does the motor behave just as well as it had and does it get just as hot?
U can use a multimeter and check for a circuit between the motor housing or the stator and the leads. But shorts in the windings u need the LC meter
.there’s spray on enamel that’s intended for windings I think https://www.zoro.com/sprayon-red-insulating-varnish-20-oz-s00601000/i/G1811056/?gclid=CjwKEAjwqJ67BRCzzJ7Hy-LYlFYSJABwp9PGwJPlGpKe9W4281qzty2FW9OJNlFIwT0hu06I1ZHaURoC1K7w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I’ve put a lot of epoxy on motors to secure windings and other reasons but u want a thin coating and to have nothing rubbing coming through the housing. But maybe u don’t have a short to begin with and I forget ur what happened
This came from there.
I’m still not 100% sure, but the heat shrink (3 wires together going in motor) was wiggly. I’ve put the wires nicely. There were actually 3 small wires (stranded wire) broken and touching the aluminum. which I’ve cut off as well. So it makes sense if it’s only coated on the outside. So this was the temp solution.
I’m now going to look into some product to insulate them better. I’ve got plastic spray laying around (used for PCB’s), a heated glue gun and some liquid isolation spray. (has a more rubber texture) I’m thinking of spraying that over the excess wire below the coils to keep them nice and tight + insulated and glue the incoming heatshrink as tight as possible
I use Glyptal 1201 when rewinding motors. They have several different products but 1201 works well for coils etc. Hot glue will melt at operating temps so it may not be a good idea.
The vesc u can use to find shorts with its induce and resistance measurements
