Balls I forgot to order the single cap terminals haha, guess I’ll be modding for the small roll of ninja flex soon 
Ps don’t think the series connections would be viable for a bottom side series of packs? Can you use them for packs laid flat?
Yes, you can. center of terminal holes are 11mm from ether side so you can stack them back to back or side by side. Series busbars have oval holes so should allow for minor slack. I can sort you out with caps so you dont need whole roll of filament. I will adjust and refund overpaid shipping after posting. Regards
Well that’s mighty thanks for the offer sir. I may just put in an order for those caps etc
But I have the roll of ninja already 
& the extruder part that wil allow me to grab it, if I give up you’ll hear from me 
Cheers, wishing you a happy new year and plenty of esk8 orders
Hey wait I thought the caps were abs? I may need to add to my order…
Edit: I need to learn to read. Well I gUess buying a spool of ninjaflex will be better for me in the long run.
Please make a youtube video on you battery pack assembly.
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I think @agniusm has pack assembly videos on YouTube already principle is the same, esk8 application on my unfinished build thread
@agniusm I tried to print out a couple of caps myself, mostly to try a flex filiment
But the stl I pulled from the site is smaller and different? Please Ignore the print quality 
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Hm, good to know. Probably old version mixed up somehow. I will reupload in an hour. Thanks for letting me know
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Re-uploaded files. Please check now
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Hey, thanks for the idea about connecting and printing 3-4 trays together. Maybe I’ll give it a try scaled to 50% or something, to see if the lids still work, and work out the spacing.
In other news, I used up a whole spool of that color change ABS learning how to print with the stuff. Ordered more, so I can try more stuff. Printing with the bed at 115-120 seems make the top contract, so the lids don’t fit nicely. I think I’m gonna do something with an enclosure after all. Which would let me try ganged trays (although PETG is probably gonna hurt me less).
I got some HK TPU as well. Tried printing your revised caps, and using Prusa’s semiflex settings, which has extrusion multiplier 1.10. Had to scale the parts 117% for fit.
In flex filament news, HK seems to have revised their TPU spools from 1kg to .8kg. Maybe it’s all the same stuff, HK, SainSmart, eSun, Inland… Anway this makes the SainSmart TPU on Amazon with Prime a lot more attractive. I’m having better luck with HK’s TPU right now, over the SainSmart. I’m also going to try at some point Polymaker’s Polyflex. It’s expensive, but if it prints with no headaches it’ll be worth it. And it’s available on Prime. For some reason white is cheaper.
And I think I discovered something, for the people in USA. If I add one spool of filament to my cart, and hit $50+ for the order, I get free shipping.
Fwiw I used hobbyking abs colour changing filament. Iirc it has a nice melt / print point about 239, the bed I kept at 105, but I also use a glass sheet. The case will want to warp so place a plastic box over the printer for higher ambient temperature.
It helps to use some glue stick especially around the corners
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Might as well dump out what I’ve learned so far.
I tried PLA, PETG and the HK color change ABS. PLA doesn’t really make sense for this. PETG I think printed the best and felt the strongest. ABS is really a pain to print, and doesn’t feel that strong. Haven’t tried an enclosure yet. I’m not sure that the temperature advantage over PETG is worth it. But that color change is very compelling.
PETG was not easy to print for me, in general. I believe I had to slow first layer down to 10mm/s, and globally limit to 50mm/s. Lots of stringing and blobbing. Enough blobbing, and the print fails. But I don’t remember having the corners lift with such intensity, so if the first layer stuck and blobbing was not too bad, dimensionally the part came out good. And strong. This is Inland’s PETG from Microcenter, which is about the cheapest I could find, $19 per 1kg.
For flex for rubber caps, I tried SainSmart TPU and HK TPU. They’re both a stringy mess I think they’re both 95A but the HK is noticeably stiffer. Either will work. They’re among the cheapest flex filament. SS was amazon prime about $27 for .8kg. HK is about $29 for .8kg.
Oh and HK color change ABS is about $20 for 1kg.
They look good but the max current is a fraction of NESE. So depends on your application. I don’t think they’re great for high power boards.
I had bought it for science, 
(I finally get to say that!) I had the 25r cells and was going to use it for a dual jet Spud with Turnigy 260kv
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Most of the stringing is your orint setting. It is a balance between temperature and retraction. Hk flex is stringy and I dont lower temp just to get layer bond better. Mkst of the stringing is inside and I burn it with blow torch, just a quick pass. Depending on which surface you print, petg sticks to pei like crazy. It boils down to how good you knkw your printer and how good it is set up:)
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Now 2P is also in the line up
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nice work. i looked around for 3d print services and they are all way way way more expensive than you are, even with tax and shipping…kinda crazy how cheap you sell those modules.
3d services are only worth it for large batch prototyping… anything else you’re better off finding a printer at a local makerspace or buying your own
I hadn’t planned on using these but thinking about it now they would be kinda perfect and you could easily take the battery apart for flights so regardless of the size you could take it anywhere. I hope they can make them in 20700 or 21700 size…