Wtf. No no no no no. That’s terrible advice. What you’re saying is, “you made a mistake therefore you should never try again”. That’s so incredibly dumb I can’t even express it. How would anyone do anything if they’re not allowed to learn from their mistakes? Are you telling me if you accidentally missed a traffic light a nearly hit another car, you’d stop driving? No, you’d learn from your mistake and be more careful in future. Geez…
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More like t-boned the car and got lucky that nobody got hurt.
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Either way works for my argument.
I think for some people @mmaner advice could be appropriate and excellent. DIY is just no good for some people. OP seems okay though.
Okay now i see it how it goes with one fold. That looks actually easier and you are able to get stronger bonds between series cells, except the one fold which can of course be strenghtened.
My design has better current draw? Those designs have equal amout of squares in series(except the folded single series).
Does the vibration really matter if the whole pack is wrapped tight as hell? I’ve experienced that it doesn’t matter as long as you make a sturdy enclosure and wrap the pack tight. Of course the stripes need to be in relaxed position, not like first weld and then pull into tight tension.
@Hummie: Is that rubber bracket only meant for protected cells? Judging from the small tab -looking hole. Or do they just need very, very good tightness? But anyways for tightening, why not use glassfiber-strenghtened tape?(forgot the exact name)
I just need to understand this completely. Could anyone help me out?
Folding it up like that makes it possible to connect the lone cell directly in parallel at the -pole. What about the +pole? I see these are connected through the next groups parallel connections through the series connection. Does that work? To illustrated it further (maybe my explanation is not that good) it would be like doing a config shown in blue/green (green showning where there would not be a connection). Would that still make it two 3p-groups i series?
Yes. It would.
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Deciving electronic piece, designed like a plastic toy. Looks like a taiwanese game console from the 70’s.
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Bah, my spot-welder is busted. It is already second time the triac blew. And with or without coincidence, a cell i was welding, started hissing because the spot-welding heated a hole in a cell…
Because of that, and because it is very bulky and cumbersome to use and not very accurate, it is time for me to get a new welder. Any suggestions? I’ve seen a welder that takes it’s power from a car battery. I was thinking something like that. Maybe this, unless you have something else to recommend:
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I’ve used the arduino spot welder for almost 10 battery packs already, it has worked flawlessly so far, get the additional parts to avoid the avalanche current to back into the welder and bust it.
Did you print that enclosure for the welder or it came as it?
Printed, file is available on malectrics, you can also buy the case from him
Okay then. I’ll go buy that 
I saw that too. Not much different from the arduino spot welder. It has better looking tip though.
Any updates on the new pack, photos?
Yea, i got the Arduino spot welder and built the battery. The battery is working good. Although it feels little more lazy especially on hills than LiPo. But well, the next pack has 5 in parallel instead of 3.
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The real question here is;
Who the fuck uses cells with 10a discharge ad puts them 3 in parallel?
That’d be 30a cont discharge.
What do you power with that? A torch?
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Jesus this battery is sketchy again.
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