After lots of request for 80mm Motors here we go with Motorpulley for 12mm Motorshaft
Only glueing with Loctide possible, no Keys or screws … running this way since weeks…Loctide 603 is BOSS
Here are the needet Adapters for mounting LEOPARD 8072 Motors to the Direct Drive
Adapters for ALIEN APS 80mm Motors comming soon (-;
Cheers Jenso
nice additional scallops to the mount, cool design feature…
the pinion looks crazy 
Maybe a stupid question but how would the leopard 8072 do on a 8s Max6 setup?
Nevermind… found this http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/big-bad-e-mtb-flampa-leopard-8072-max6-9inch-striker/4287
Hit my up for a price for adapters and pulleys dude
Thanks Dude, not much remaining rest material isnt it ?!
Yeah well, more BADASS BLING Factor then massive upgrade on 8S … Its an nice upgrade for torque hungry people, specialy if they live in hilly/hot areas or are BigBoys
Pair of Adapters are 65€ , Pair of Spurs 39€ without VAT
As promised here the Adapters for Alien APS 80mm Motors
I got also a GUARD Edition :
Its possible to Mount Braces to protect the exposed Motors
Length of round Spacers are variable… here longer ones…
This can also be used for every Direct Drive if an addional Motorprotection is wanted. (Only M4 threads will be outdrilled for 4.1mm)
This kind of protection can be problematic if the Trampa Hanger itself is not well aligned from one Axle to the other… but for the first 3 Dual Kits here i dont see big differences… Some Kind of Copper “O-Rings” could be used if there are smaller alignment issues IMO
Pictures taken from a customer build for a freaking fucking awesome QUAD-8082MM build:imp:
Looks awesome Jenso! Stoked you were able to incorporate the cross plates into the direct drive. Love the look 
Hey mate. Like with belt drives the belt is usually the first thing to break. In this case with your direct drive what would be the first part to have wear and tear?
Hey Dude. The wear will apear on the gears yes… postet some time ago in this tread roughly 700km runned wheelgear with visible wear… but still in a very good shape… Sold many Direct Drives this year, there is still NONE shreddet gears … I would say its still the best Drivegear for hard Offroad use… except for people who want a silent drive… thats the only downside that its louder
Thanks for the info, will take this into consideration for my build. Will let you know if I require a set!
Jens,
Still messing around with the direct drive on carver while i get your belted drive.
So check this out… I get a grindy ride… i can’t figure it out. Motor spur gear is set as far possible from POM drive gear without touching the sides…
With no rider it sounds fine -
But once i get on it… different story -
How does the spacing look?
When i put the spacers are they supposed to make the hub adapter flush? Or is the hub adapter supposed to be flush with the truck end (where the axle intersects the truck) before the spacer rings are even added?
Hey Jenso, how much are you selling these adaptors for?
What’s going on with the end of the truck? Was it all beat up from prior use? It looks like the adapter is smacking it. Deff stay off that till you figure it out
Yep I did… and I pushed the whole assembly closer to the truck middle so that it is right up against the beginning of the milled flat part of the truck. The sound is a little smoother now.
EDIT: BTW that beat up part is from me just hand-turning the adapter trying to figure it out… not actually from riding.
Hey
Can you check for clearence without the housing? Wheelgear mounted to Hub with Adapter, 4 shims .without the 1mm coverplate… now you should see if there is clearence issue to the Motormount… also check by holding the housing next to it … maybe the grinding is to the coverplate… the POM wheelgear shoud sit free on both sides…
My guess is that you maybe grind in the area where it already looking beat up… Best would be to remove Motor and just mount the Wheelgear to the Hub and screw it on the axle… You should try to turn the wheel with some “load” on it “try to bent it by turning it” know what i mean… If there is some “contact/resitance” add one or two more shims and check if the grinding is gone… If this is the case you could just move a little more outside with the complete Mount, as long there is enough room for the wheelnut…
Hope you could understand what i mean… let me know
Yes I do… I am trying:
Removing the coverplate but screwing back on the assembly – then giving it a ride
Adding shims / move the mount further away from the center – this suggests to me that that entire hub adapter should clear the end of the truck/axle intersection
EDIT: It is not #1… I removed the coverplate still the grind. I think I isolated the issue and it is #2 – my distance from the edge to the circle is about 71-72mm. It’s the hub adapter hitting the truck. I have to push entire mount much closer to the edge. It is what Jens you have suggested… now I have to re-test.
Why not make a instructional video on how to set up your direct drives Jens? Might make things easier…maybe…
Might, but to be honest riding a Direct Drive feels like flying a Rocket (I guess ? never flew a Rocket). But it is for sure no Rocket Science in a Direct Drive. And it would take away the last little handicraft LEGO tinkering feeling.
And Jenso is actually sending out an really inforamtive Step by Step manual via mail if you buy a direct drive
I mean no offense, but some people are visual learners and a manual doesn’t help these kind of learners. And most people aren’t good at problem solving, so a video would help in both cases.
I myself don’t need it, but someone else might.
Yap a instruction video cant be a really disadvantage, except for :
Yeah best would be a video, i put it on my todo list, right after this webshop thing 
Thanks for your thoughts Have a great day
