Based on the calculations I just did, you are only capable of transmitting about 1200 to 1350 W (depending on belt length) for a single drive with 15T motor pulley and 15mm HTD belt
This is right inline with the 1244W you recorded
Would you mind sharing the formula you used considering belt length as a factor?
its at 80a now, will give this a go later
max temp is below 60c at top of the hill climb. where does it start throttling?
pardon the shitty quality, the glass covering the camera is shattered right now
Maybe double check ppm value and see if it goes all the way up to 100%
That’s 140f. Throttling default is 135F if im not mistaken.
Sounds like it is for sure thermal throttling if your getting up in the 140s
That is a really strange case. It’s not limited by the the battery voltage and also not by the temperature. Please post screenshots of your settings. Maybe something is wrong there.
Do you have a BMS between the Battery and the FOCBOX?
yes, 80a bestech bms, using it for discharge.
i don’t think it’s the bms because in dual drive it gets up to 80a batt discharge.
i’ll take a screenshot of settings later tonight, need to make some adjustments anyway.
Could be that one of your series packs is too far off from the other cells so that the BMS reduces the power. If you have the chance try it without the BMS and let us know if it makes a difference.
I wouldn’t include a BMS in the discharge cycle because you never know what they do in detail. Would only use it for charging with charger. On 3 of my boards i don’t even use a balancer at all and check each series pack from time to time. Max difference so far was 0.01V (Li-Ion). With a Li-Po i think it is necessary to balance but with Li-ion and a adjustable charger i would set it to 4.15V for each cell and then you should have enough wiggle room if the cells start to drift.
It’s limited by the drivetrain design, like most belt/pulley setups. Changing the VESC settings isn’t going to change physics 
Sorry, doesn’t make sense to me. The belt doesn’t slip in the video.
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so upped the motor max to 120a and it’s definitely punchier than before.
hit batt max of 40a.
i’m ok with these results for now, especially because this board isn’t going to stay in this configuration for too long.
settings
BEFORE
AFTER
You are using sensors. Please disable them and give it a try. Reason is that in BLDC mode you can get trouble when their position isn’t perfect.
but it’s hybrid mode so should the sensors not get disabled once it’s above a certain erpm?
not sure if this is worth pursuing further though, just went on a 20+ mile ride today and it’s ok for the time being.
Depends on you. Something is wrong and i guess if you add a second motor to this one then this motor will output less power than the other one. Problem is that you won’t recognize because the brain adopts really fast when the board always pulls a little bit to one side during acceleration. Like with a single drive where you mostly one feel the big difference to a dual when you switch boards without a big brake in between.
I agree with @Ackmaniac. You want to get this fixed before it starts causing more issues.
I would think it’s your pwm. If you had the trigger all the way back it should have been trying to command 100% current if you are in current mode but it’s not.
The reason increasing the max works, I think, is because you just changed the end point of the pwm. Where before the end point was 80, now it’s 120. You are still only getting about 50% of that full range.
for sure the remote is set correctly, i tested it last night. it’s at 98% full throttle. having said that…
so in the last clip going up hill, the throttle is NOT at a 100%. i rarely, if ever, need 100% throttle.
this then leads to me another question. i need the power but not full speed. it seems i need to use all the throttle to use all the battery current.
i’m still NOT using ackmaniac’s firmware. would watt mode provide this? where i’m using more current draw at not full speed?
edit —
it seems like i need to use ackmaniac’s firmware:
Don’t think that my firmware will make a change.
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You can adjust throttle curves, limit eRPM or Duty cycle. I thought you were at full throttle.
Throttle controls current and not duty cycle in the standard firmware if I’m not mistaken, that’s why you can spin at full rpm at a relatively low throttle setting under no load.
If you weren’t going full throttle on either of those videos then there is no issue with your setup. You just need to adjust throttle curves and such to match your needs and as Ackmaniac said, his firmware won’t help much with this
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i guess that was a critical bit of info i missed in initially, that i wasn’t on full throttle.
when i observed full amp draw on dual setup, it was full throttle going 35mph, which for me never really happens.
thanks for the help @Ackmaniac @PXSS
If I’m not mistaken if you started with two motors with vescs with the same settings and you removed one motor to make it one wheel drive then you’d have to use twice the throttle to get the same watts/amps. And if you made it AWD you would have to use half the throttle. If it was duty cycle the position of the throttle would be the same speed for all three scenarios.
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