Motor mount wont fix, which solution do you recommend?

That motor mount and enertion motor mount need Caliber truck or clones.

The one i’m using is a caliber truck :slight_smile: So you think a enertion mount would fix it without all this problems? thanks!

Ups, sorry. I just saw “CALIB…” in your video. I thought it was another kind of truck. It is strange, it is supposed to fit in Caliber trucks.

JB weld drying! Note that the mounts were very secure just by bolting, the weld is for vibrations.

I will vouch for Enertion motor mounts…

Solid…no need for any mod to the mount and caliber truck other than blue thread locker on bolts…if put on correctly…it’s like it is part of the truck

The mount is the the key to stable build.

2 Likes

The design of that mount is poor. I guess you could rethread the mount again but you would still have the same problem. Go for the DIY v4 mount instead. By far the best mount available. Or get the enertion mount which is also good and is cheaper.

I’ve used Alien Drive Systems mounts for Paris (older v1) - they rotated on me and didn’t have grub screws to secure. Not my favorite. Before i fixed w/ JB Weld that board was stolen.

I’ve used Enertion mounts - love them and the CF bling. Range of flexibility on angles for non-standard setups is their only limitation. No issues, simple to setup and rock solid. Only Con is limited adjustment angle on drop decks or similar placement challenges.

DIYes mounts v3 (really their v1/v2 i think) - love the full adjustability and solid when setup correctly. Can be fiddly to get setup at the start, but beefy and uber-adjustable for any type deck a huge +.

I’ve setup one Psychotiller mount (used) and it keeps coming loose. Super frustrating. The truck clamp portion is too large, and the shim wiggles out when riding… JB Weld likely next to help fix.

I would get DIYes v3/v4, or Enertion’s without hesitation.

I’ve not tried the new DIYes v4 mounts might have some wheel size limitations if you run bigger wheels (>83mm like 90/97mm) since the belt tension uses the motor mount screws and usually the 4th under wheel can’t be reached. I have a set of the v4 on order to use, but might limit wheel size to a 83mm as a result. I had the same issue with Psychotiller’s mount.

remember, the CF won’t serve as a heatsink though!

2 Likes

The motor mount looks home made to tell you the truth. Shouldn’t be sold if it’s not reliable IMO due to the users’ safety. You’ll have more headache than pleasure that’s for sure. I have both DIY and Enertion’s mount. Riding with Enertion, i’ve decided to get another one. DIY’s V4 has fitment problems. Doesn’t look solid as the Enertion’s either. The DIY’s V4 requires a heatshrink tube to get it decently tight but I can still wiggle it with my hand with a lot of force. That’s why the above photo shows it being JB Welded. If the V4 would make the opening a tad smaller, it should clamp on better. The only negative thing I have to say about the Enertion mount is the CF disc which you have to be careful when tightening the 3-6 bolts.

1 Like

Well, after some fixing and using a stupid cable flange i i’v already used it for 15km and had no issue yet, it isn’t perfectly fixed but doesn’t move .

Here is a short video i did to show it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGJxr1sjBUs

It’ll work as a heatsink… Just a really shitty heatsink

1 Like

@Jinra @link5505 What do you mean with CF? What are you guys talking about heatsink? I got lost on this point

Aluminum mount seems to draw a lot of heat away from the motor and into the trucks.

CF = Carbon Fiber

That´s the material Enertion uses for one part of their motor mount.

(Source: http://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/carbon-fiber-motor-mount-enertion/)

Taking long rides with much power on the motor (eg long climbs / fullspeedracing) generates a lot of heat which probably reduces the lifespan of the motor. Using an aluminium mount will transfer the heat away from the motor. That´s why few users don´t like that Enertion use CF for the mount. But since you won´t climb long steep hills all day temperature imo won´t be a problem.

how has this been working out for you? also, which JB weld did you use?

I need a more permanent way of mounting my motor as well.

The weld worked fairly well I’d say. The issue for me was sliding back and forth on the truck and the weld completely stops that. It did crack on one side but it was where I put a thinner application. Overall i’do say it’s worth doing.

I used the original slow set stuff.

1 Like

Neat, I guess I will be trying this today then.

@sleepy are you putting the shim in the curved section of the clamp? Are you tightening the clamp bolt before you tighten the set screws? If you do the sequence in reverse your clamp wont be tight. and if you put the shim on a flat side instead of up in the curved section it will come loose. The caliber 2s are hand sanded over the curve. Every truck is different. The curved side is the side that needs the shim.

Thanks for the tips @psychotiller. I was putting the shim on the flat side. So i’ll relay to my buddy to try the curved side.

Appreciate it.

1 Like