If you noticed my plug goes thru my deck and I wanted a snug fit along with glue so ensure it wouldn’t come out. I guess I made it too snug and changed the shape of the connector a bit. So I just had to file down the male connector to match the other one
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This. Sounds like all current was passing through the resistor, which would then heat (a lot) and melt the connector. Do the following experiment: measure the resistance when the plug is barely in when it first closes the circuit. then measure it again when you push it all the way in. You’ll see that there should be resistance (5.6 ohm) initially, and then no resistance after plugging it fully in.
Leo
If it’s really 5.6 Ohm only what the XT90S has, then with 12S the peak/spark current will be around 9A in a std. dual-VESC configuration (around 4000 uF; depends on the cap bank + other components like SBEC, etc.) and gets to around 4A only after around 20-30 ms. Probably not a big deal for a wirewound resistor to charge the caps… …but I think it can’t survive the normal / continuous current even for a single (V)ESC-motor setup.
R, J.
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5.6Ohm is written on the plug but only the initial contact is made by it. Once the plug is fully inserted basically no current will flow through that resistor.
Yep - and for the initial contact don’t be faster than around 20ms (or up to 100ms just to be sure) but make sure it’s fully inserted before you let your motor spin.
R, J.
Hey there! I recently found this page / calculator:
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/nospark.html
It gives background info, tells 2 ways to connect the no spark switch and there’s also a calc for values / wattage.
Although, it recommends quite high resistor (around 2w) for 24v system, IF someone can make use of this, please do so! Would like to understand what ohms/watts would be needed for different systems - 6s, 8s, 10s, 12s… and so on.
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For your pack?
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Change your connectors to XT-150’s you can get them on Hobbyking and they can take a much larger load…
680uf x 3 … 2040uf 63v
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thank you I always doubt these connectors are made to make life easy:D now we have almost 100replys here. personally i would go the next step;)
I couldn’t understand your diagram unless I saw the components. Lol I’m a little rusty with all that. I see the diode but your resisters confuse me
I’m not 100% sure, i think the resistors are just current dividers. The 1uF is bipolar! I’m not sure cause i used anotger design before i switched to this. This is just coppied from fechter/vedder.
hahaha I would have thought that the next step would be to simplify things not complicate… remove all resistors and just deal with a little spark, replace the connectors if they get eroded to the point that their performance is affected.
Yeah I thought of that in the beginning but doesn’t that mess up the vesc if there’s no switch or fuse between the battery and vesc?
Right so install fuse between connector and vesc then connect the plugs that spark. Or go with these connectors on this thread. That’s what I figured, if you really wanted to take care of a hundred dollar investment O.o
On 12S (~50V) with the XT90S the peak charging current would be ~9A.
The first ~10ms and already ~half, full charge ~40-50ms.
R, J.
Ok so with chaka’s vesc and 190kv motor two 6s batteries 5,000 mah it may be smarter to run a bigger connecter on the end of the two batteries if they are connected in series