Meepo esc to FOCBOX | blank double kick drop down | 90 mm hubs | Sanyo 20700b 10s2p | NOW 12s2p sanyo with torque drives (used to be speed drives)

Do you wish to run it in foc?

You can keep it the same except for unchecking the box for multiple esc and traction control. Other than that you still have to figure out your current limits which depend on your motor and battery.

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ya hoping run foc on the focbox since its a sensored 6374 motor with 36/14 gearing and a 10s4p 30q battery and a nano x and bluetooth module soon

Hi! I would have some questions. I read all the thread but something is still not clear to me. I need to configure two VESCs 4.12 via Canbus. The VESCs have the ackmaniac’s firmware and I will use the customize ESC tool he programed. My questions are mainly about the initial steps: 1- Do I need to set up both vescs separately and only later connect them through the Canbus cable? Or can I already connect them together, then power on both of them and first connect the master to pc configure it (specificy ID0, send status over Can, multi esc over Can ecc…). Once the master + receiver is tuned, connect the slave VESC to pc ID1, send status over can and no multi esc over Can. Which one is correct? 2- Concerning the remote configuration, the receiver has to be connect to the master VESC, but how do I configure the remote on the slave VESC? Is it possible do it through the Canbus connection? 3- Do I need to reboot the VESC between the passages? 4- Ackmaniac’s firmware is based on watt instead of current. Where does it apply the max watt at the motor or VESC (battery) current? I mean usually we calculate the watt as 60A battery discharge x 10s x 3.7V = 2200W so 1100W for motor available. What current does the program take into account? The battery or the motor? Because the current at the motor level can be higher then the one provide by the VESC.

Sorry for the long questions :sweat_smile:

The canbus is really only there for the vescs to communicate with each other to receive signal from remote and Bluetooth input. Maybe more but can’t think of it.

  1. Both ways work. Either way you will have to connect each vesc separately to the computer to configure them.
  2. You can connect the receiver to either vesc. The one that it is connected to is the one where you need to calibrate the remote.
  3. Don’t know. I connect the vesc then simply read settings first when I have them set up already, then make changes and write them. Then disconnect.
  4. It is max watt of the motor.
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Thx for the fast reply. So So I can power on both of the vesc and then just switch the usb cable to connect them to the pc, first the master then the slave. All passages briefly: 1- Connect both th vesc to the battery (can I use my own 10s battery right?) + motors. 2- usb cable to master vesc --> ID0, send status over Can, multi esc over Can, motor max, battery max ecc… Select ppm + uart (if you have bluetooth) and configure the remote. 3- motor detection and adjust values. 4- Apply all the setting and move to the slave vesc. 5- Connect the canbus cable and connect the slave vesc to pc --> D1, send status over can and no multi esc over Can. Select PPM (do I need to select uart as well if I have bluetooth or only at the master side is needed?). At this point do I need to do the remote configuration or the master send the remote setting to the slave? 6- Motor detection and adjust values. Now both of the motors should spin. right? 7- Apply all the setting and enjoy!

Thanks for the help!

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You can configure the slave first or the master. It doesn’t matter.

  1. Yes connect the vescs to the battery with motors attached if you want configure the motors too. I do use an anti spark with power button for safety of the vescs.

  2. This is correct except for the send status over can which should only be enabled on the slave.

  3. Yes.

4,5. Yes do the slave and only check send status over can. Ppm uart checked on both to get data if using Bluetooth module. Remote calibration is done only on the vesc where the receiver is attached to.

  1. Yes.

  2. Happy riding

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Perfect, I finally see the light a that e ed of the tunnel! Thx you very much! Now I need only need the motor :grin:

Hi! I thought it could interested you.

Ciao ciao

What do you call the connectors on the meepo’s motors phase wires? Did you have to change them to connect to the focbox?

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2096/3333/products/7_1800x1800.jpg?v=1520569102

Those are bullet connectors. No Focbox use the same size. I can’t be sure but anyhow Focbox comes with 3.5mm connector. Check for your motor, but should be the same.

How different is the riding experience with using the focboxes instead of the old esc?

If with old esc you mean the one in meepo or other Chinese boards. I had a Koowheel before switch to Vesc. The difference is that you can program it. So speed, torque and brakes are better. You will feel immediately that acceleration and brakes are way smoother. It really does a lot.

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Yeah bullet connectors. They are 4mm on the motors and 3.5 on the focboxes.

You will need to solder some new ones on to connect them or make an adapter from 3.5 male to 4mm female.

Personally I would cut the bullets off of the focboxes and solder new ones on to fit whichever motor you are going to use. The soldering on them sucks. On one wire it broke already on mine.

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Way better.

With the focboxes you set up your power needs as you please along the brake and throttle curve.

Power is also instant if you like. I have it set so that I get full power from the get go up until the top speed.

I recommend you do it and build your own battery too.

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I have just built a fresh 12s2p Sanyo 20700b battery for these meepo motors.

No load speed from metr: image

No load speed from eSk8matics: image

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I’m more interested in amp consumption on load. but it gives u decent speed tho!

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Nice! I was wondering about these motors with a 12s. I think some one eksw tried in the past but I am curious to know how they perform.

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Well I went for a short test ride and it is scary knowing that I am not fully recovered. Falling again on the same shoulder would not be good.

Here are the metr data:

12s2p

10s2p

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be safe man, we dont need to lose another rider, and nice conversion. It’s funny how most people think you have to stick to stock hardware with pre-fabs… its like a sports car… u think the factory gives u ALL the bells and whistles lol… u always gotta go after market for more fun

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Nice. I will need to update to 12s I guess :grin:

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