Matching Turnigy 149kv Motor with what ESC?

What’s going on all.

Started building this thing a couple of days ago and everything seems to be going pretty smooth. Here’s my circuit. (2) 3S 11.1v 5000mah Turnigy Lipo’s in series to Hobbyking 85A BlueSeries ESC. The ESC Hooks up to an arduino which takes inputs from a Nyko Kama. The ESC also hooks up to the Turnigy SK3 149kv motor.

When I run the motor without a load the motor runs as expected. When I run it with a small load, sometimes just connecting the belt to the wheel pulley the motor runs very slow. I believe it could be something to do with the low voltage protection of the ESC. I have changed the setting of the ESC’s low voltage protection threshold to Low 3.0v/50%, which is the lowest possible setting. Can’t turn it off.

I was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem or can give me some kind of direction moving forward.I know others that have achieved a sustainable build using the 149kv motor and (2x) 3S 11.1V lipos. I believe they used different ESC’s. Such as this build here.

Thanks in advance!

in series or parrallel

2 lipos are connected in series so they should be acting as a 6S 22.2V 5000mah battery

That ESC will not work - you can not use its brake functionality. It is only capable of a 100℅ instantaneous brake which will make riding a pain and dangerous.

Why do people keep buying these plane ESCs? This is the third time in a couple days that I have to tell someone they f*cked up by ordering the wrong stuff.

http://calc.esk8.it

Based on your set up and guessing the gearing …you must be going pretty slow topping out around 12 mph

Not sure what esc that is for…I’m gonna assume for a helicopter … Does it have a break?

To get the benefit of that motor you will need to increase the voltage to at least 10s…or to get a different motor with a higher kv

See this thread

Well that is not completely true: I have the same setup and what is crucial is the gearing. 20/28 will get you ~25mph!

You can use the yep esc. $99 plus a programming card that has 12s capability. Brake is programmable, but your right the blue series is all or nothing

True…

But please read the whole thing

Thanks for the replies everyone. I have ordered the Hobbywing EZRUN MAX8 and i’ll see how that goes. Based on the feedback seems like the Blueseries was the problem. I will be gearing to 20/28 20+mph top speed. Thanks for all your help and I will update you when I’m done!

I guess the reason I bought the Blueseries was because I was just looking for the cheapest 80A 6S speed controller that hobbyking carried. Unfortunately they dont do a great job of distinguishing plane speed controllers from car speed controllers. I just thought one speed controller is the same as any other except for the amps and volts it can take. I have zero experience in anything hobby related. I’m a noob. I’ll update you guys when I’m done and thanks again.

Also can someone please explain the difference between a plane and a car controllers?

Plane/Helicopter ESC’s usually do not have brakes or are very limited on the adjustment of the brakes. Car ESC’s will have proper braking and and the brakes will have more adjust-ability. Make sure you get a programmer for your Car ESC. The stock settings are usually not ideal and will most likely be set with reverse.

The biggest difference in plane/heli and car ESCs are the throttle profiles.

In a plane when you have the ESC for the prop motor. The throttle profile goes from 0% to 100% and at 0% if you have braking enabled it will start fully braking the motor. and the throttle doesn’t go to -100%, because in traditional planes you only want the motor to turn in one direction and you control how fast it spins in that particular direction.

Car ESCs’ throttle profile goes from -100% to 100%. The physical controller has the throttle trigger is neutral in the middle position at 0%. When pulled (the trigger direction can be changed), the throttle will move towards the 100% positive end and the ESC will spin the motor in the “forward” direction. When pushed the throttle will go towards the -100% negative side and the ESC knows that reverse or braking is wanted depending if the car is moving or stationary.

TLDR: Plane and heli motors spin only in one direction (forward) and Car motors can spin in both directions (forward and reverse) and therefore have better braking profile.

Hey man thanks for the great response. I’m starting to understand it more.

So I went with the Hobbywing MAX8 150A and all those BlueSeries problems are gone, unfortunately new problems have cropped up. When I try to go up hill the system seems to reset itself. Not sure what could be causing this problem. I find that when I give the board a good couple of kicks it can usually get up the hills just fine. It could be related to settings on my MAX8 or maybe the gear ratio that I have the board at right now (2.86 : 1). What are some common settings I should be setting my ESC to and do you guys thing the gear ratio could be the problem?