This is the board I’m going to use, bought it online from Awol Sports. It was pretty cheap and well made. I don’t particularly like the branding on the grip tape or under the deck so i am planning on repainting it and putting new grip on.
The trucks were originally mounted in a drop through style, but i will need to mount them under the deck as shown in the image. But as a result it leaves that hole there in the deck which i don’t really like. So, as per @treenutter suggestion, i am going to fill the hole with some form of epoxy or resin. Then i can repaint the deck with my own design and then put some new grip on. You can see a close up below.
Change of plan again. Instead of filling the hole with an epoxy or resin, i am going to get a cap 3D printed with the assistance of @Danpooed. I decided to go this route as i will be able to convert the board back if i ever decide to get a different deck. I will also be able to mount my XT90-s key loop on there as well so i dont have to plug it in underneath.
I measured up the holes and came up with a 3D model using 123D. @Danpooed also assisted a little bit with this as well.
Good idea. If you’re running wires to the caps, you might as well integrate a USB port or LEDs in there for night riding. Hell, you could squeeze a voltmeter into the cap to better monitor your range while riding.
I’ve seen this deck online. What are your thoughts on the flex and the feel under your feet ? It’s the grip tape good ? I think the shape might be goof for the oversize wheels we tend to use on our E-Boards.
For me the flex is good. I wanted it fairly stiff as i will have batteries running most of the wheel base, but also to have some flex for comfort. I am only light though (61kg).
Grip tape is pretty good. But i will most likely replace it as i don’t like the logo on it.
@Chris_KP I did the wire mod to my SK3. I used about 8cm lengths of black 10AWG Silicon wire.
I think it turned out pretty good. Only issue i had was scraping of the enamel coating on the wire so i could solder to it correctly. Other than that, no issues.
I am still sorting and testing cells. I am going to start building my packs when i have all 78 of them so that i can distribute the cells evenly, to result in even capacity packs.
This pack that i build was just made out of lower capacity cells and is a 6S2P pack. I needed some power source to power up all my electronics to make sure everything was working correctly, and i wasn’t going to use those cells for anything else.
This is basically what my 6 proper 1S13P packs will look like, just with one extra cell in it.
I just noticed that you have a quanum transmitter. Well i had this one too and it is very bad…honestly it is crap. You should better buy a GT2E or GT2B (older version) because it is much better.
With the quanum transmitter the binding is hard. It takes just soooo long. Sometimes i need to rebind it to get it working…Since i used my GT2E i will never change my transmitter. Maybe i use sometimes a nunchuck or steez but i dont use this transmitter voluntary.
Well… maybe? I dont know but i did read some people hating this transmitter as well… But if you are happy with it stick with it
That was the reason why i bought the same transmitter. But the GT2E feels like it has wider pulsewidth and is much more accurate (for me). But i am going to print the GT2E custom enclosure and then it will be the perfect transmitter ?!
Hi Sean
Really like how you’re putting together the battery packs. I also have access to used laptop batteries, and am considering doing something similar to what you’re doing. A few questions
what is your workflow for each cell? discharge, charge to full and log the mAh ?
how do you know when a cell is bad?
how are you grouping the cells in each pack?
will you use a BMS for all this? if so, which one?
Sorry these are many questions but I want to make sure I get it right. I’m probably going to build something smaller, perhaps 8s4p. I’m thinking of 3d printing the cell spacers so I can just line them up first, then solder, then wrap.
