There will be different opinions on this topic.
I have never tried multi-rotor packs which is one extreme 10ah or more x 10c.
I have heard that they lack power.
I have compared 5ah / 25C in 12s config and
5ah / 60C in a 10s config.
Although the 12s should yield more range, it did not.
One thing I found is that the 60C cells have about 1/2 or less the internal resistance that the 25C had.
My 10s 5ah 60c Lipo battery yields about the same range as my 10s 9ah 60a Li-ion battery when both where subjected to high power demand.
The reason was much less voltage sag with the 300a battery.
So to get 300a continuous capability you need
5ah x 60c
Or
30ah x 10c
So with higher C and lower AH you get the power in a smaller lighter package.
i have tried the multirotor style 10C Turnigy LiPos. They provide mad range and not a lot of oomph. I used a 16ah 6S2P Turnigy Multistar for a while and loved it as a general derping board. IT was no drag racer but it was still fast and ran for almost 25 miles.
I agree with Namasaki and longhairedboy, the higher the C rating the less heated and stress on your batteries. That comes at the tradeoff with cost. higher C batteries are slimmer in design and cost more. You’ll find that 10wh = 1km of range.
Another point of view - similar to LHB. Cruising where you don’t need “punch” those big 10c lipos work OK. Lots and lots of range w/ moderate acceleration and no hills.
But when you need power, you’ll find them anemic and if you really push them you’ll likely damage or puff them. THey can’t provide the power needed, and their “10c” rating (like most lipos) is marketing and not accurate outside a lab in ideal conditions (if that and not just made up for sales).
I try to get the highest C packs i can afford - less voltage sag when pushing them hard, and more oomph when you want it (hills or acceleration).
I originally wanted to use two large capacity, high discharge 6s packs in series to try and make things simple.
Since not being able to get my desired configuration I’ve had to go for plan B…
The following configuration is what I’ve come up with.
•4 Turnigy Graphene 6000mah 6s packs
•65C continuous 390 amps
•130C burst 780 amps
•133.2 WH
Connected in series and parallel to achieve 12s.
Im aware that these figures are proberly not realistic, Turnigy proberly use Chinese cells but I’ve heard that these particular graphene pack are not to bad.
At least I’ll end up somewhere in the ball park of where I want to be and they are also available in Australia.
This is a option that I really didn’t want to use because it will require 2x icharger duo chargers and have more wiring/connectors, but will fit in my enclosure nicely.
Reguarding the chargers, would I be correct in saying that I will require 2 chargers and two power supplies to power them?
The charger or chargers that I have chosen are.
• Icharger 406
I can’t see the point of having 8 or 10s capable chargers when all I’ll be charging is 6s.
Do you know of any other quality charging/balancing options I have to charge all four battery’s on the one charger?
What would the specifications or the power supplies have to be to power the charger/chargers?
Glen, have you seen my thread on building a high power Lipo system with onboard BMS and simple charging?
I have been using this setup for a while and it has exceeded my expectations.
It is a 10s system but could easily be done in 12s as well.
Also about the quality of Turnigy Lipos, I feel that the Turnigy’s high C rated packs are good quality.
I checked the internal resistance of the packs I’m using and they are substantially lower than the Zippy packs I have used.
Decided against a battery box, mounted battery’s on top of board with Valcro. Had to move the front binding foward to get the batteries to fit on there sides tho…
It doesn’t increase capacity. It merely presses the anode and cathode layers.closer together lowering the IR of the battery. Lower IR = less heat when giving up energy. Closer the pack is held.to 90F degrees the more capacity you can pull from it.
I squeezed my packs on my spot welder as it keeps them from heating…and also ya know the aluminum helps with that but it pulls the IR down about 30-40% from unsqueezed.
@Cobber Light pressure maybe 2-5lbs on the bolts, you dont need much to lower the IR, which in turn reduces voltage sag underload.
If you have an old lipo laying around, a tiny one(ex: 1300 4s, something you can fit in your hand and squeeze). You can experiment with this, put a lipo on a voltage checker/IR checker, with a 12v or dc lamp/load attached, and squeeze the pack by hand, you’ll see the lamp get brighter as you squeeze, and the voltage increase (due to the lower IR between anode and cathode, the voltage sag of load decreases).
Just trying to mitigate what I can & keep as much of my top end as I possible.
Hopping to only use 330Wh/10Ah 8s 65C/130C Batteries with 296A of cont. rated motors. That’s about 9,827W theoretical at 4.15V a cell (reality will prob. be peaks around >8,000W I think…).
