Blank Custom | SK3 192KV | VESC | 9S LiPo | Custom Mount kit | Caliber Raw 44s | 83mm | GT2B Mod Sparkle

Hello all,

I have been part of this forum for little over a month now, and have been amazed by everyones build and tips n’ tricks for building a board.

I had some school life to get over. I did spend a little hours here and there during my school but now that its all done, I can spend a few more hours.

Board: I was able to make a design for my board and sent it off to a store on Etsy named TravelSkateBoards. (https://www.etsy.com/shop/TravelSkateboards?ref=l2-shopheader-name) They were able to make my design. 9ply.

Trucks: I ordered these trucks initially: http://www.zumiez.com/caliber-ii-fifty-184mm-satin-blue-longboard-trucks.html They were really nice, but too bad they shipped these in a flimsy crappy box with zero padding whatsoever. :confused:

So then they looked like this: So being cautious, I returned them. (funny story later)

I then ordered a pair of trucks from here. https://www.amazon.com/Caliber-Longboard-Trucks-Wheels-Package/dp/B01IJ8JZAK/ref=sr_1_28?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1482362610&sr=1-28&keywords=caliber+raw+truck

Put them onto my board and:

I just received a special delivery this afternoon and it turns out it was Zumies trucks. :open_mouth: I didn’t think i reorderded them so I called customer service and turns out their warehouse mistakened the receive of return as a output delivery and resent them to me. Rep asked me, “I will fix this for you no problem, we will give a full refund, just dont send them back. Is that fine with you?” OH hell yeah.

So now I got this:

I am thinking about adding either some paint, or a painted vinyl overtop with some clearcoat on the underside. A picture like this: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vzR1p5GCJ2A/Vh1u13HxUtI/AAAAAAAAARM/GwbmZ4b6Dus/w800-h800/shadow_king_by_x_spirit.jpg

Motor: I organized a group buy for SK3 Motors directly from the manufacturer. It is in the payment process at the moment, but soon I will get them within January. Saved some money doing a groupbuy, and saved many other users some money that aren’t in a rush.

Battery: Am thinking about making a li-ion pack. Specs are still unknown.

Will post more details as I get more things. :slight_smile:

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How much did it cost to have the board made?

$45.00+$10 shipping. I did go with it since, he showed me pictures as he went along in the process. I did annoy him with multiple designs and got his input of what would and wouldn’t work out. And since it was a small store, had to support Small Business Saturday.

good deal. looks like it has little flex

It actually does have a little flex, I just didn’t want too much flex, as in my case I weigh about 170-180 (but I will rather say 170lb. :slight_smile: dont call me fat ), carrying a college backpack weighing about 10-15lbs. Every day I gotta go up and down a hill from the car lot to and from classes and it gets tiring especially when the weather is this cold/hot.

Yeah I think little flex is perfect for ESK8 as it is easier to mount the parts

Got my Lipos in Today.

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What brand are those?

Floureon 11.1V 3S 40C 8000mAh

Sidenote: Does anyone have any experience with this charger iSDT SC-620 500W 20A MINI Smart LCD Battery Balance Charger http://www.banggood.com/ISDT-SC-620-500W-20A-MINI-Smart-LCD-Battery-Balance-Charger-p-1060646.html?rmmds=category 5 star reviews with nothing but good comments.

Please don’t blow up

Question1.) So in order to do a test of of this battery is truly 8000mAh, I need to fully charge to 4.2V/cell [(12.6)volts total] and then discharge down to… 3.3V? Question2.) I am about to make a connecting harness to put together 3 lipo battery packs. So I want to know what type of gauge wiring to use. ->From what I read on this thread :

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These connectors on the batteries are giving me a headache. I am trying to make a 3Male to 1Female wiring harness to connect the batteries in series. My soldering skills are bad to none.

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Yup those look like cold solder joints. Are you using flux? If not you should get some. First tin the wire and the connector separately before soldering them together. If the wires come apart and touch each other it will be disasterous. Worst case scenario if it doesn’t work for you try and find an electronics repair shop to do it for you.

You need way more solder on the wire too. Since you’re soldering to a flat, I suggest also flatting out the wire. I use a pair of pliers and press it down on the flat. It’ll make it a whole lot easier to solder flat to flat.

I went to homedepot to buy some better wire, got some 10guage wire that only has 7-10 strands of copper in it, versus the wires above that had like 15 thin strands.

I do suck at soldering as I spent few more hours today. I went to a radio/electronic shop and they wanted $45 dollars to solder my connections with my own wire. Just for 7 solder joint…

I think I got one wire soldered very well and was able to get it slotted into the connector casing, need to work on the other wire, now.

How this look?

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Damn this blows, I either get a good solder joint and it fits perfectly with the click sound into the adapter housing or it breaks trying to insert into the adapter.

This is where I’m at now

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About to test

First loop checks out good

Second loop is good

Third loop

Checking all again… Holy sh!t!!! Almost electrocuted myself. Never SEEN a spark that big…EVER!!! :confounded::cry:

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Batteries don’t feel hot, wondering if it have to make another harness…

Anyone want to make me one? I got money.

Wiring harness continuity is good for all loops. How do I check the batteries? Don’t have the charger with me.

When you guys put graphics on your boards, do you first, put a layer of clearcoat on it>Graphic sheet>clearcoat to finish? I just bought this spray coat,

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