The Evolve Gen2 used LiPos with same enclosure but I think it’s a step backwarts. Take a look at the market, 90% of all major brand with powerful boards use Li-ions and they sag less (mostly with major brand cells)
I don’t know what is wrong with board, I guess the motors draw more power than the battery can handle, so replace the motor or the battery or the BMS, who knows… As we don’t know what the battery can handle it is hard to guess what would make the drive-drain better.
Good luck 
It could be the motors. They really are incredibly powerful - probably too much for their own good. I’ve seen them get the Carbon up to 70km/h on those motors. Crazy
What extensive care??? You have to take the exact same precautions with Li-ions…
Make a pack out of VTC6s or Samsung 30Qs if you want cheaper. Evolve BMS might still work with either of those. It’ll be a 432Wh pack if you go with VTC6s. They are about $7/cell though. 30Qs are cheaper and almost the same Wh
With that knowledge, I’m much more inclined to do with LiPos. Do you think the Evolve BMS/ESC combo will get fried if I make the LiPos 12s? If I do make it 12s what would my Wh rating be/what range would I get? Thank you so much for the help!
10S BMS isn’t going to work with a12S battery. Wouldn’t have enough balance connectors.
i think the issue you will run into with lipos is the lower energy density, Not sure there is enough space and cell that will fill the space adequetly
Lipos don’t waste as much space since they are pouches instead of cylindrical cells but lithium ions are usually of higher density.
I think the biggest issue will be the height of the enclosure. Its only 0.78" thick. Most LiPos I’ve seen are boxes and seem too thick.
Lets take a step back and look at why cells sag. A cell has a certain amount of resistance (which determines what the highest safe rate of discharging is). The higher the resistance, the more the sag. If a put cells in parallel, you get less sag, because you lower the resistance across more cells. The C rating in lipos gives an idea of resistance, as the higher the C rating, the lower the internal resistance (li-ion manufacturers usually give you an internal resistance number, while lipo manufacturers usually just give a C rating). The C rating of lipos are usually much higher than li-ion. Since they have a lower resistance, they tend to sag less. Evolve exacerbated it’s sagging it had with the GT (which I believe uses lipos) when it switched to li-ion in the CGT.
If sagging is an issue, look at motor efficiency (which I would imagine they engineered to be pretty good) and mostly, the battery. Lipos were designed mostly for RC hobbyists. You don’t see a lot of RC guys using li-ion, becuase the lipos perform way better. We require drastically more power from our boards than in the standard RC world (there’s always some out liars), so why would we go to li-ion? There’s some safety benefits for sure, but li-ion batteries in a 10s4p config will never supply enough amps without drastically sagging on say 15% grade hills, which I’m surrounded by. It may work great if you live in a flat environment, but I need double that to reduce sag.
Zippy makes some of the best lipos. I would recommend this:
You can probably use the same bms if you use 5 of these in series to make a 10s 8000 mAh zippy lipo pack. I can guarantee that you’ll get less sag, as at 30 c and 8 Ah, that’s 240 max continuous amps, which is probably way higher than what they are using now. Not a cheap upgrade, but will likely solve your issues. If the bms doesn’t work, you might need to replace the bms also. If I were you, I’d replace the bms with any 10s bms, upgrade the esc to the VESC in FOC (maybe direct fet vesc from chaka or a vesc-x or even the VESC 6 when it comes out, and replace the battery with the zippy cells I posted above. Regular VESC is not good enough for a mono drive with hills).
Thanks! I’ll look into it
I have used many of these cells with great results in high amp situations btw. If they get below 2.8, don’t try to charge them. Otherwise, as long as you don’t cut the pouch open, your batteries won’tt blow up.
How can I see voltage. The remote shows voltage for the GT but in case I switch out the BMS+ESC, how am i supposed to keep track? Sorry, as you can see I’m a complete noob at this stuff
You can use a small volt meter. They cost around $7 each on amazon. You can also use a smart phone app. I make one, and there’s a few others.
Can you see the voltage on the Carbon remote or only the percentage?
If you double tap the button on the left and go to more info it will show you voltage. I’m confused though. I just checked and it says it has 41.7v when the battery is 36v/10a. Maybe I’m stupid.
That is awesome. Now please tell us what the voltage is when the battery shows for example 50% without load and what is the voltage when it sags below 20% under load, so that it switches automatically to ECO mode? That would be very very interesting.
I would love to but I’m in Ohio and its the middle of winter. Surprisingly there’s no snow but its raining pretty heavily. It’s going to be a while before I can do more testing.
Nominal voltage per cell is 3.6v
10 in series is 3.6v x 10 = 36v. Batteries are listed at their nominal voltages.
Charging voltage per cell is 4.2v. Multiplied by 10, is 42v. So everything is good with the battery.
Maybe somebody else with a evolve GT can test and share the values with us. I really would be interested at which voltage under load the board switches automatically to ECO mode.