minor delay this weekend. Went up to o @cmatson 's robot carving cave this weekend and got some beutiful wire channels dug out of the top and was all excited about it. I got home and set the deck down flat and noticed it was warped. It was twisted counter clockwise by about 2mm (measured from one edge of the nose, i didn’t get the protractor out and see what degree it was exactly) across the entire length of the deck.
So i threw it away because the customer deserves better than that kind of bullshit. I almost threw it through the garage door in a fit of rage but i decided having a hole in my garage door is probably a bad idea since that’s where my shop is. I have another blank fresh out of the press laying in the house flat on the floor with no twist. I’m going to let it cure for a few days in the air conditioning and see if that has anything to do with it. I’m sure the spike in heat and humidity play a role here and something i did with my 7 plies was leave them in the house for a while and i have had zero warpage on those. I didn’t do that with this one because i just wasn’t thinking about it, i basically cut it right away and left it out in the garage while i was working on other parts of the build. I won’t be doing that again.
I’m serious.
Does the color of the parts actually affect performance or is this just a joke.
Please tell me it’s a joke or give me a detailed explanation to how that would work.
Thanks.
Dude, don’t trash it! How much would you want for it, in the name of science? That’s too much work to go into just throwing it away. I certainly don’t need another deck, or to spend more money, but I’d be interested to see one of these in person to run horrible experiments on, or just hang on the wall in the garage. Let me know!
@longhairedboy this is helpful for me, I’ve been trying to sort out which sized nickel (or copper wire) to us to connect the cells. The internet offers, uh, conflicting opinions about this. I’m going to go with 15mm nickel, but I can’t seem to find 15mm anywhere.
No. Color makes absolutely no difference in performance whatsoever. Its just a running gag i started years ago and a few people on here have followed along playfully.
You have no idea how hard it was for me to do the responsible thing and not explain to you in some dry, knowledgable tone how it would make a difference using plenty of big words and confusing language that would have you googling phrases like “400-440 terahertz band” and “red shifting” and “spectral wave distortion” in order to confuse you into stumbling around in my own personal amusement park of humerous mis-information. Don’t let anyone tell you i don’t exude self control in every moment of my being. I would do just about anything for this community, including behave myself and not be an epic level troll.
Have you ever been in a street gang and one of the members totally betrayed the whole group by ratting or knocking over the wrong liquor store and you have to beat them down? I think we all have, so i’m sure you understand. That’s what happened except it was just me and a warped deck. I had blood and tears in it, and that little bitch warped on me. Bodies in the desert holmes.
@longhairedboy for clarity here, are we talking about pure nickel strips that are 0.1mm vs 0.15mm in thickness, or 10mm to 15mm in width. I can find 10mm wide, 0.15mm thick, but that’s most robust I’m seeing in any of the regular places.
yes. I’m talking about 0.15mm pure nickel strips. I couldn’t find 15mm widths either. Then @cmatson and i were looking at his torn down space cell this past weekend when i went up there and saw it was using 8mm as well. So does the 60Amp version of the space cell i have on my bench.
I think until i can find 15mm width of the 0.15mm thickness in the good stuff, i’m just going to double it up like i did on the last two packs i spot welded. The rest of the rig is set up to shut off above 80amps so those cells will never see their burst capacity without triggering limitations, and rarely see their designed continuous capacity of 80amps total across the 4P. They should stay cool and cozy no matter what.
And even when i do find a reel of 15mm nickel i’ll probably still double it up just because.
Lol, understood brother. I would have done the same, except I’m more of a wood chipper type than a bury in the desert type, but the outcome is still the same. She’ll never wrong you again.
This thing was fun to watch! Unfortunately this is the deck that ended up being warped so i have to do it over, and another one for a single drive goofy stance as well which should take about half as long.
We need to remember we are only pushing current through short segments so 8mm likely has plenty of headroom on these packs. I use brass busbars because I isolate every cell with a fuse wire and the cell casings no longer share the load like they do in a conventional pack.
when you say cell, do you mean the whole P group or the individual 18650s themselves?
yeah i build my packs in a string now. I line them up, glue them together, then tack the strips on, then solder the balance leads in, then shrink wrap the while thing. I kind of thought what you are saying about the short runs between cells and the caps sharing load was the case all along, but i’m glad to hear you say it. I’m still jumping my individual 6S packs into a 12S with 10awg wire though, and i think i’m going to continue using dual layers of nickel just to make myself feel better as well as create a structurally stronger pack.
I will post a build thread one of these days with my tesla style packs. Basically every cell in a parallel group is individual fused to a brass busbar using nickel coated copper wire. The gauge depends on what type of cells you are using and overall system output. It is extremely time consuming a bit more expensive and adds zero performance gain so it is a tough call to make when all it does is add a level of redundancy to the already internally fused cells.
So here’s this ridiculous pack i made feeding on the 4 amp charger.
The charger is kind of loud and kind of warm but it doesn’t mess around for that first 80% at all.
I’m waiting on vescs so i can hook up the drive train and let it run on the bench to drain and make sure it does the cutoff thing like it should since i don’t have a discharger/load tester type thing yet.
finished up the second deck for this build. This one is straight as shit! i let it cure in the house for a couple days and that seemed to be the secret. ITs staying in the house until its finished and ready to be built out.
its worth mentioning that i use a BLUE wool blanket when clamping and sanding my boards on my bench because @onloop likes seeing blue in my instagram feed.
