LHB Scarlet Black Metal Edition | 12S 430 Wh 18650 w/BMS | Ollin Vescs | Enertion Dual 190kv 6355 | 83mm Flywheeel Clones

sweet! i’m looking forward to it.

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@treenutter also i’m thinking about hacking my fuel gauges i got from ebay to have red smd leds in them instead of green for the back lighting. I may tear into one of them tonight and see if the led for the backlight is easily accessible and could be lifted without too much trouble.

I went digging around and they’re all green, which is lame. Green is the slowest color there is.

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I hereby present the Conical Guide to Esk8 Color Palettes:

Red: Fastest Color available. Increases speed by 20-30%

Black: The Roughest Color: Black increases torque by up to 40%, and improves stick, acorn, and squirrel-crushing ability

Orange: Provides the deepest carving action, 15% more surfy

Green: The smoothest color; green is silent and mellow, reduces speed by 10% and noise by 25%

Blue: Rock-solid and reliable, adds 35% more to lifespan of any component

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@treenutter its also note worthy that this black metal scarlet build doesn’t need to be charged. It simply feeds on the souls of the animals it crushes under its wheels for its hellish performance characteristics.

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very nice build. can totally see the dedication and patience of making the deck layer by layer :smiley:

Thanks bro. I spent almost a year developing my press and process. I’ve got it down to about 2 total hours of labor per deck at this point. Gluing and tossing in the press is about 20 minutes, cutting, sanding and drilling truck holes is about an hour and a half-ish. There’s a few of these Scarlets in the wild now, and the reports i’ve received back is that they’re just as tough and take as much or more abuse as factory decks.

I built the first press…

and then i built the one i’m using now because the first one broke:

Including the cost of the mold and enough veneer for 10 7ply or even 9ply decks, this can be done for less than a grand. I spent a tad more than that because i was in uncharted territory building my own press instead of buying one for $5000, so i wasted some veneer and obviously an entire press’s worth of wood and hardware when it exploded making my first successful deck pressing.

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What does the “trick” (cutting 18mm off ea side) do?

makes room on the hanger for those press-in pulleys that have their own bearings. The trucks on the Raptors have been modified at the factory for the Raptor’s injection molded pulleys, and Evolve did something similar with theirs. If you want to use either one of those pulleys on regular caliber ii trucks, you have to take off some aluminum.

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such dedication, bro! unfortunately i live in a place where i do not have such space at home to do anything as massive like u did

seriously man wish I had the space for a shop!

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my truck is permanently parked under a tree in the driveway now. I have half of the garage, my wife has her car in the other half, so my actual workspace is about the size of a spare room. Also i share my half with a washing machine. It’s full of compromises but any good deal is. So far it has all worked out really well though because the things that were scattered all around the house are now in one place, and all of it is out of reach of tiny hands now.

workshop looks great now!, love the led strip lights, extra bench space is like a breath of freash air…

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MOAR CELLS the 18650’s for the 12S build arrived, this time in high performance glossy boxes instead of the regular old not glossy ones. lol

AND SUPERWORM! I love this shit. I got like 80 feet of this shit between the 10awg and 12awg total. Best wire ever.

and finally… this came in the mail…

so i can’t wait to see what these wire channels are going to look like with this gorgeous clear resin filling them. Also going to be building the boxes with this stuff until i run out, then i expect i’ll buy more if i can’t get somebody locally to start building my boxes for me. I don’t think i can fab my own boxes forever, so i may have to settle on a design that can do up to 12S4P and then use it for 10S builds too.

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Did some of this last night:

so i could make these:

i numbered the balance points on the cells and soldered in some balance leads. i used a paint pen to add on number of dots to the leads in two locations so i would know which was which. Those are 8mm strips, i didn’t think that the 4mm strips the welder came with would be good enough to channel all that power Hail Skatan.

then I shrink tubed them:

the paint dots on the leads worked out. I can clearly see which is 1 and which is 12. I still have to solder in the big wire jumper between groups 6 and 7 and also solder in the mains and fasten them down. I ordered a roll of that wide shrink tube but its probably not going to be here on time, so there’s going to be some taping.

As soon as the BMS and VESCs arrive i can start making a form for the box. For now the plan is the make it very thin until it gets toward then end of the pack, then i’ll have it ramp up in space so that the BMS and VESCs can have some room.

I’m not sure where the fuel guage is going yet. I sort of want to put it over the front truck so you can look down and see it.

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8mm Nickel? Why not 15mm? Is 8mm enough? @whitepony

If 8 isn’t enough let me know now, i can still tear it open and double up the strips. I thought it would be though.

did some more digging. Looks like people are saying i need at least 10mm on there. things i had read before said 8 would be fine. I’m also seeing more and more about people using 15mm like was just mentioned here.

I think i’m just going to open the packs back up and add another layer of that 8mm nickel to share the load to be safe, that should be effectively the same as having used 16mm from the start. I’ll have to redo my balance leads but whatever. I don’t want to take any chances.

I love how one day you look something up and see one thing, then the next you see something else.

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TBH, I think you would NEED at least 15mm. On @whitepony s builds, on the outer connections he uses 15mm nickel + braided copper wire to connect the long serial connections.

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i’m planning on joining the two packs with 10awg superworm, the same thing i’m making the mains leads with, and i’m definitely doubling up that nickel tonight. I may even solder along the edges of the two strips to join them better after i get the second ones on.

Haha, Hail Skatan. Nice!

Looks great except for those slow ass BLUE motors. Lol. Any way to redden those up?

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