A normal board pretty much is plywood no?
Why need so many batteries? So many benefits. I’d stick as much in as I can and ride it …just don’t carry it
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Thank you everyone for suggestions! I have been designing this board for a long time and I hope I though about most of the issues. First thing I did after gluing is testing how strong the deck is. I literally jumped on it to make sure it doesn’t crack. Sure I did this before putting all the electronics in. Plywood is cheap and if it breaks I just design a beefier version. Because I don’t know how to calculate it in a scientific way like @cricrithezar but I just pretend I know what he is talking about 
@Ackmaniac really smart, I like how battery holders bend together! I think this approach will be very popular among people who want to go solderless.
Laser cutting is a LOT of fun! @Michael319 if you live close to a big city, search for hackspace / makerspace. I did everything in Stockholm Makerspace. It’s amazing. They have all the tools.
Copper strips 0.2mm x 9mm. Parallel connections - 2mm solder wick.
Using a cheap DIY press which is not even a press, from some chipboard laying around.
That’s a lot of glue squeeze out! It was a nightmare to remove!
It took like forever.
@Hummie @PXSS here what you were talking about. I have thick wire on each side which takes all the heavy current.
The deck turned out very very strong. It doesn’t bend at all, it’s like a rock. @saul you are right, 50 cells is a lot and I won’t be able to drain the battery in a single run, but I’m doing it for science! After checking that the deck is strong it’s time to put in electronics. First go capacitors that are exactly 18mm in diameter, like the cells. Then go VESCs. There are slots for radio and BLE, charger port and motor wire channels.
OMG that’s a lot of cells! The deck IS cells, almost. I hope it doesn’t explode.
With the lid.
VROOM VROOM!
The board is heavy. 8kg. I blame CarvON.
Ready for riding! I did 4 holes for VESC ventilation, I’ll probably 3D print small air intakes for better airflow. Between the VESCs there are small XT30 charging port and 5A charging fuse, in case I somehow short the XT30. On the left side there is XT-90 Fused Antispark switch.
Here is some riding data, multiply values by 2 since data comes only from one VESC.
Max current was 14.3A × 2 = 28.6A. That’s about ~ 5.7A through a single cell. Votage drop during this time was 39V 
37V.
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Wow - 90kph - must have been a hell of a ride
Nice build - I really like your approach and how stealthy it is.
Holy shit, that is awesome!
Would it be possible to do a more narrow board if you’d gone with 10s4p or even 10s3p?
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Wow that’s a really nice build, nice to see it come together! Actually doing the math is nice if you don’t want to waste material but jumping on it a couple times is definitely also a good way of making sure it’s strong enough haha. Now you’re making me want to build my own deck as well. How are the copper tabs working for you? Also what are the dimensions on your deck? In any case awesome build!
Im not sure its all that wide, it might just be short. The pics are a bit angled, anyways I cant tell. @rpasichnyk what are the dimensions of the deck?
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well damn that worked out pretty well.
Very nice!
@rwxr 10s4p would be possible, 10s3p probably would be too narrow. I can also just leave slots empty, and use 10s4p/3p, the connection is still there
@cricrithezar I used $8 bathroom silicone sealant to make small elastic inserts which I put under copper tabs. It holds nice and tight 
@mmaner you are right, the deck is short. Dimensions are 25cm x 75cm
That’s not too wide, pretty average for a longboard deck. Really short, would be easy to tack on 6 inches (3 at each end) and make it a normal longboard length. It looks pretty cool being subby too though.
Do the motors hit when turning and how are the pressure connections doing!?! The pressure connections are very unique. I forget are u using conductive paste or bare? Any extreme rough roads? I imagine if any cells disconnect even for an instant it will shutdown the board
One suggestion would be to put a piece of foam on the lid that puts pressure on the battery to stay towards the bottom (‘in this case towards the top’),
Another would be to put spring loaded tabs so its always got constant pressure on the terminals of the batteries.
Whoaaaaa great build! Good call on the makerspace!!
Beautiful build!
I´m wondering why noone mentioned it yet. I´d wire the motor cables between the trucks and the board and not between trucks and street. After the first few rocks or wood or something sharp you could easily rip them apart!
But cool build
There have to be a easier method of bringing some edges to that board, that it´s more comfortable with locking your feets in.
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That deck is going to be super heavy but looks like a cool idea.
Maybe these would help