About to start my first build. I intend to do a complete YouTube multi part step by step tutorial. Most of what I’m going to do has already been done but I am going to build a custom ESC/ receiver box out of kydex, it will hold everything including a battery meter and flush mount xt60 connection, as well as provisions for future changes like anti spark switch, other mounts, switches… And will be waterproof. I’ll post pics as I progress. Wish me luck!
15 Likes
Interested to see how the max 6 wifi goes, was going to buy the wifi dongle at some stage
That’s part of the reason I went max6 and not vesc.
1 Like
Coming along, remote mod is done. Motors mounted, battery compartment started, waiting on epoxy to dry. And started making a buck for the kydex ESC box.
8 Likes
Finishing up battery box, 2 10,000mah batteries fit perfectly and I added a flush mount plug so the entire box can be separated easily if needed.
1 Like
Just about finished up with the form for the vacuum forming, need to fill some low spots and round off the edges
9 Likes
Tried to do my forming tonight, first time I didn’t have enough bolts, second time was better but couldn’t get it to draw all the way down. Tomorrow I’ll make a press with foam to help push everything into place and try again.
6 Likes
Just to give an idea of what is going to look like once I get it right, it’ll hold the esc’s and switches, battery meter, and receiver inside and the base will bolt to the boards stock holes.
12 Likes
I see a lot of people trying vacuum forming which has its intricacies and nuances, there are other thermoplastics available ie: worbla, this can be formed with a heat gun and does not require a vacuum to form over an object.
The only limitations that it comes in a smaller thickness of sheet rather than your typical thermoplastics, which could have issues with strength but can be doubled up in sheets.
A lot of cosplayers use it for forming armour etc. I have used it for other projects and might use it for my e-mtb build
If I can’t get this to suck down I may move to an ABS or similar. I want something with rigidity to hold everything without moving. I think I know what to do next, just means I have to make more stuff. I’m done for the night tomorrow’s another day.
2 Likes
Suggestion, probz rubbish but maybe…, if you made a reverse of the recess mould ie a mound mould for the Max6’s and switches you could just make snug fitting faceplate to place on top of what you have already made in the above photo.
I hope that makes sense? im shite at explaining things 
but i think working the Kydex from behind so to speak could help gain the full cupage you need… 
I figured it out needed to be 10° hotter in the oven, and I ran 2 shop vacs in series to pull down harder. Once I did that it worked perfectly for the top and bottom, now I just have to run all the wires inside and install my battery meter.
12 Likes
7 Likes
Nice work man, Kydex is a awesome stuff.
Let me mention one thing, if you use the Truck Bolts to mount the Rc-Plate you have to complete demount the Truck for doing maintenace on the bushing or adjust the preload on the Springs.
Again nice work! Good choice on the ESC ! They do what they should… never bring one to fail !
Edit : maybe just add two holes in your lower plate for reaching the adjuster screws
Cheers
2 Likes
How is the base plate fixed to the main body?
I have small screws that will tap into the base and hold the top of the case on. Just keeping it simple. The way it’s made it’s almost a snap together fit.
Just took it out for it’s first run, at 10:30pm with a flashlight in one hand and my remote in the other…This is scary fast!! And the torque is mind blowing. The first thing I did was come back and turn the throttle punch down from 3 (factory) down to 1 and turn the brakes from 80% to 50%. Thankfully I had the foot straps on, I hit the brakes and had I not been strapped in I would have went over the front of the board. Next test will be tomorrow in the light. I’m super happy with how it turned out.
2 Likes