James Bond 007 Spy Board | Arbor Vugenhausen Deck | Custom Griptape! | 97mm White Flywheels | White and Gold Caliber II 50° Trucks | 10s | Vesc w/scilocone conformal coating and copper heatsinks, hybrid setup | 6374 motor sensored | Niel Precision ect

“The man with the golden ESk8 gun remote.”

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Painting it gold forsure now…

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Just an update. CALIBER II trucks with riptide aps and wfb bushings are awesome performers. I had those exact bushings on torqueboards supposed clones and they bind to not operate even close to the way they perform now. Also the 97mm wheels are so smooth, never going smaller than that. the decks performance with the concave ensures you are completely locked in since it’s made for downhill and gives the deepest possible turning. RIPTIDEs are for downhill also. Have a deeper turn and snaps back with zero speed wobble at high speed. Had board up to 29mph and will gauge with a full battery to see top speed. Thats pretty close to it I feel though. All in all this board rides awesome and I couldn’t be happier with its performance!

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OK so those flashlights obviously rattled apart. So I kept the heads and used an led driver to wire them in series and run them off the main power. What’s left seems much more manageable and efficient since I don’t have to worry about charging flashlights and taking them apart again. Plus they made noise with every expansion gap hit…

Plus the heads give you the best lens for seeing the road and not just “being seen”

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proof :slight_smile:

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Parts list

OK so if anyone has torqueboards motor mount I will tell you how to eliminate all belt slip. 1st I have 16t and 40t. So you will need 295mm belt from vbelt. So if you have smaller gears you can do with a shorter belt. Get a 8mm shoulder bolt with 6mm thread… I believe the shoulder length was 12 or 15mm. Drill and tap 6mm thread and get a 6mm threaded nut for other side. Use a regular wheel bearing since it’s easy to access. Make sure placement of bearing is closest to motor mount holes but in the center of material so not to compromise mount integrity. I can now mash the breaks and fly off the board. Zero slip because I used two pulleys…:slight_smile:

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OK scratch the p clamp. They were marine grade and still wound up breaking. Took about 150 miles I’d say. So I drilled and tapped a 1 1/4" one hole strap. Drilled into and tapped 6mm hole in the flashlight heads. Won’t go anywhere now. I gotta get a shot of how far these light up the boardwalk street signs at night. I swear it’s over a mile easy…

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which LED driver did you use?

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This one @gaetjen

If you attempt this you must remove all electronics from the flashlight except the led itself

Ok, update on the strap metal…I thought I had this problem licked for sure. Apparently not. Strap metal broke for whatever reason and the consequences could have been disastrous. I had just buzzed this island circuit I do when I want to speed on the street…all above 30mph and lIke a idiot I had no gear on. Well I did 6 Miles of this only to slow to 5mph at the end(right where I parked luckily like 30 feet away). Anyways the one hole strap broke on the light next to the drive wheel and lodged in the drive gear and completely locked up and threw me off. So glad I was not going 30…

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So the new solution is since I tapped the heads with the threads already, time to send a bolt through the board directly and maybe put a rubber washer between the light and the board.

Please tell me you at least had a helmet on.

But as to your issue, is it possible to secure the both ends of the clamp? Like a circle clamp? (i think that exists…)

The piece that broke was not the piece connected to the light. It was the piece connected to the truck. So I’m eliminating the strap altogether and sending a bolt through the board. Yeah I had no gear on. I have all the gear too. I landed right next to these wooden stakes sticking up. I remember thinking man even gear wouldn’t have saved me from those lol. Even low speed wouldn’t have either. Should have had it on either way. Definitely would have sucked much worse at 30

Ok problem solved (hopefully this solution is more permanent)

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@Lsalt Hi, so do you have a pic of ‘‘spring adjusted’’ tensioner?

I heard you have one for your board, really curious to see how it works and looks :slight_smile:

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Here’s what I wound up doing that works amazing.

So you basically can leave the belt with very low tension this way. The belt can’t skip the drive gear at all with two pulleys. In fact I road in the rain and the belt didn’t skip. The belt would have to break.

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@Lsalt how has your last “solution” held up with the bolts through deck tapped into the tactical light heads with rubber in between?

+1, I want to hear more about this build.