So it’s taken me some time to finish my son’s board but it’s finally done! It’s got a 10s2p battery with a bestech BMS, dual VESC and the handy dandy lcd fuel gauge and of course @jacobbloy dual hub motors.
here it is with the temporary wired nunchuck
Here is a sneak peak at the black box
I upgraded the remote to this one, this thing is tiny and fits very nicely in your hand. It’s simple (very much like the badwolf conversion, same binding process.) Someone on this forum said they used it and didn’t like it but I think it’s great.
I can only say good things about @jacobbloy hub motors! These things are TORQUEY as hell!!! I’ve had to set the motor max to 20amps in order to tame this little monster. These little things don’t disappoint, they’re incredibly responsive and have minimal resistance unlike the belted counterpart. The rolling resistance is substantially lower! They are substantially quieter even in BLDC mode. I haven’t tried FOC yet but I can’t imagine how much quieter this thing can get.
Like @lowGuido, I also ran into the problem of the grub screw not being able to hold the torque. I came up with a proper solution that has worked like a champ so far.
I drilled
and tapped the motors for a 4-40 bolt and installed a 1/2" set screw
Then I machined the truck to receive the new member
Here is the finished product.
The grub screw is still functional, it just has a lot of help now. I understand Jacob is making some changes to his new motors that will cure this ailment.
For those of you who are on the fence on whether hub motors can cut the mustard, go ahead and jump off the fence, THESE THINGS ROCK!!!
Nice! Thanks for the review. I’m so tempted to buy these. I was half hoping and half dreading someone would start this thread. Got any videos of these bad boys in action?
Nice! These things hawl ass dont they? Good call on the set screw. I have been talking to jacob and I believe that the new ones are going to come with a simmilar system to your set screw with the trucks they now come with. Or something… im sure @jacobbloy can clarify.
haven’t really done a full charge to zero test yet but I imagine somewhere in the 8-10 mile range should be expected.
The remote is very comfortable, light and ergonomically correct. It has a second channel (haven’t experimented with it yet) that you turn on with a switch on the remote (this will probably work well for a set of lights.) It charges with a USB cable and is very easy to bind. If you look around you can get the remote for under $95 on aliexpress.
It’s a very simple comfortable remote that just works. In my short time using it, I’ve experienced no drop outs.
@BigAl I noticed that you used a solid wire to connect your 18650 cells (copper I think). Why did you chose that instead of the nickel strips that I see so often? I’ve read that the wire can deliver higher amps than nickel, but it looks harder to solder. I’m about to connect up my new pack and have been trying to decide which option is best.
So, I used the solid copper wire because at the time it’s what I had. It’s really not the that difficult to solder (the secret is flux paste.) I now have nickel strips, so on my next project I will use strips. The one problem I do see with the solid wire is it makes the battery pack a bit brittle, it has less flex. I don’t foresee any issues though.
