Pretty straight forward, negative to battery (or BMS) and positive to battery positive, then the other end had an XT-60 which goes to my parallel connector. I also attached a voltmeter to the end with the XT-60.
Perhaps others had it hooked up to the battery, voltmeter, fuse, or other device in a weird way.
I’ve bought two and both failed within a few weeks, I’m absolutely POSITIVE it was installed correctly. I use either the BMS switch and/or XT90-S now.
Hm weird, could be a variety of various factors. Maybe we’ll never know…
I think there might have been a run of bad fets, I don’t really care as I just don’t trust switches. I prefer the loop key arrangement, even if its not the most attractive.
Ok I changed my mind, do you know any tutorials on youtube about installing the loop key?
i’m using a loop key now but going with a antispark switch for this main reason.
the female end of the loopkey is mounted to my enclosure. the constant inserting / removing of the male part has quickly dislodged the female end mounted to the enclosure. now the female end is just kind of hanging there loose and i need to grab with one hand while inserting the male end. basically, loop keys get a lot of abuse. and you’d be surprised how quickly you get tired on pulling the loopkey in and out.
in terms of how…
http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/how-to-anti-spark-xt-90-loop-key/204
@mmaner im really interested in why some of the vendors ive seen switches keep breaking on people so quickly. Ive had mine running for over a year just fine. I would love to get a hold of one of these broken switches, is there any chance I could buy one of the broken ones off of you for examining it? Im in the US FYI. It sounds similar to the problem I was having with my VERY early designs a year or more ago were I didnt have zeners and was driving the gates with way to high of a voltage, maybe its the same problem? Anyways let me know!
I’ve heard some information from various people stating their their mosfets blew leaving it in an “always on” position
Yeah thats the most common type of MOSFET failure its just a drain to source short and is exactly what was happening to my old designs. By “their MOSFET’s Blew” did you mean like actually blew up, or just stopped working?
Ah, that I’m not sure of.
I’ll send you one, maybe you can give .e a discount on a new one 
. PM your address, I’ll send it out tomorrow.
I have a dead switch that I could send you as well. I bought it used, but still basically brand new from another member and it worked once for me, then got stuck in the on position. I’d like to try again with one of your switches, and a discount world be awesome, but honestly, if it just works, I’ll be happy to pay full price for it. I’ll pm you later.
Hey yeah I might be interested in another one, if its from a different vendor then @mmaner switch. And FYI Mike what company did you get your switches from? I forgot to ask. And @Mobutusan what company or person is your switch from as well? Would definitely love to take a look at some different ones and find out whats wrong with them.
Mine is a Torqueboards/DIY switch.
Yeah I would definitely want a Torque boards switch, I’ll dm you my address.
I soldered my own using the Vedder (original design)/Chaka (upgraded board) design. No issues so far.
I got these from GoldenHusky here. DirectFET anti-spark switch thats based on vedder’s but improved. So far I have tested this using the recommended 12v LED switch but I’m only running 25-35 amps thru the system. I really like it, really small and clean look. Inline fuse rated higher than what the other available switches seems to be OK for now, I will run this over the week some more and see how it holds up to the constant on-off. Check this out as an option…
why not buy a BMS with eswitch, whats the advantage of an external e-switch?
Having to turn on your board to charge is kind of annoying
If they happen to crap out on you. Send them back in and we’ll send you a new one.
We’re working on a new design hopefully have it tested soon.
