Hub Motor & Urethane Riding Qualities

Just as putting red on any given component makes it go faster, calling something “premium” gives you a notable performance boost!

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Baby’s tear, virgin blood and a hint of @longhairedboy hair… it’s call the Skatan special…

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Only when you’re talking about small “non premium” wheels. Using real, complete “premium” wheels above 97mm (up too 150mm) you have plenty of clearance.

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LOl and here I thought it was just desperation, whisky and cigars! Learn something new everyday!

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Sorry, I think those are just good for the superior type :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Well, using big wheels in reference to the motor diameter gives you less gearing. You ride at e.g. 0.7:1 instead of a 1:1. In consequence you loose efficiency. Direct drives want to be as close as possible to a 1:1 ratio. Placing the motor on the side of the wheel doesn’t help to avoid the gearing matter. Thick urethane and direct drives (hub/side to wheel) contradict each other. You will get your board rolling, don’t get me wrong. Still it’s a highly inefficient way to power your board. Heat is the consequence. So you end up using two motors instead of one properly geared motor. A geared single drive will outperform a twin hub and will still be under less strain. One ESC, one motor, simply cheaper and more robust + you have the comfort of riding on thick urethane or pneumatics.

Frank

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Whoa Whoa Frank! You’re making too much sense here. I do likes me some belt drives and pneumatics.

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@chaka @JohnnyMeduse

Just so everyone’s aware, i will be offering my hair for Premium esk8 builders and components experts to use in their boards and board components if you guys are interested in licensing the use of it. I can mail you samples first of course.

Also i have NOT licensed my hair to anyone in the wheel industry, so if they are making premium claims they are false ones! only thane that has one small strand of my hair cast into the wheel itself is premium.

So basically no one has premium wheels yet. YET. Sorry downhill community, none of the expensive bad ass high performing wheels you have been using this whole time were premium.

I’m in talks with Orangutan about premium 85mm wheels that not only feature a strand of hair but also a speck of beard which should improve performance by as much as 300 megadanders.

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I heard a rumor that enertion licensed proprietary use of your Schweaty Taint Hair but Trampa already trademarked any use of the word taint? Fake news?

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I wish I could give this 50 likes :slight_smile:

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I think its OK to use them as long as you dye them black and call them “tainties”.

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Bahahahaha! LHB Tainties “Super Sticky”

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Look at post #24 in this forum on July 18th and see if that answers your question.

But to answer your question in a different way, I don’t want to use hub motors for what I’m doing and so I wouldn’t put urethane on a Raptor 2 hub motor.

Hey! Stop using my tainties before i get them in a wad.

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Dude, you quoted my post perfectly. Where do I say that “thicker wheels are better on skateboard because they’re better on a car”? I don’t say that, and I wouldn’t. What I’m saying is that race car drivers use what works for racing cars, and if huge rims and tiny tires worked, they’d be using them. They don’t. Similarly, if huge hubs and tiny bands of urethane worked on skateboards, THAT is what we’d be using. We don’t. And there are reasons why huge hubs and tiny bands of urethane works so poorly on skateboards. And I don’t employ wishful or magical thinking that if the giant mass that you’re sticking into a tiny band of urethane happens to be a hub motor, that somehow THAT makes it feel good or ride smoothly.

We have the choice to design a skateboard wheel that doesn’t suffer from having too little urethane. There are several good ways to supply power to those good wheels. Yes, there are some downsides to using belts and pulleys and having motors that live outside of a wheel. But I’d rather work on mitigating those issues than having to deal with the issues that you’re faced with when you choose to stick big motors inside the drive wheels. At this stage of electric skateboard development, I think of choosing hub motors as “painting myself into a corner” where I’m trying to solve a problem that I unnecessarily created for myself. That could change over time. Right now I see a much brighter future with all of the options that are available with either a belt/pulley system or direct drive systems where the wheels remain whole.

There are trade-offs either way. Choose whatever path you want.

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Does that mean then your not interested in helping anyone else put abecs on their hub motors also? :frowning:

We are bound by a common language here, and we are accountable for the words that that we use. When you say that the “ONLY” advantage a direct drive system that isn’t a hub motor is “better cooling”, that simply isn’t true.

The ability to use a whole skateboard wheel which is designed to be a skateboard wheel is a HUGE advantage. The ability to change that wheel quickly and easily with any of the other wheels on the board is an advantage. The ability to change the size (diameter and/or width) of that wheel is an advantage.

You also stated that “the LAST thing” you’d want to do is to add urethane to a hub motor. I disagree. It’s the first thing that I’d try, and if it didn’t work, I’d rule it out. I think that encasing a hub motor in urethane is going to get hot whether it’s a little urethane or a lot of urethane. I think the bigger problem is that you’re increasing the diameter of the wheel which has the effect of reducing torque, when torque is already an issue for hub motors. At some point, you’re going to exceed that practical limit of a wheel size for the average rider. But until you KNOW what that limit is, the least you could do is try a lot of urethane and see how it works. I think of adding more urethane as an approach, not as a bona fide all-encompassing solution.

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That is why the last thing you want to do is adding more urethane. You gain ride comfort, while your motor struggles more and more. In consequence you need two motors and two ESCs to compensate the lack of torque. Wheel size is gearing in the wrong direction. From the point of view of a hub motor, big wheel diameters are painful to deal with.

Frank

I’m not sure that I understand the question. Do you want me to chuck up some Flywheels on a lathe and cut out most of the core so that it will fit over a hub motor? Do you want me to tool up for some plastic injection molded sleeves that fit hub motors and then pour urethane on those sleeves? Is there a known perfect size and universally agreed upon hub motor size so that someone wouldn’t make a sleeve that is worthless in six months or a year?

Do you want to pour soft urethane tubes with no structural support of any kind? From a liability standpoint, that is what I’m least likely to want to do. Try doing 60mph on a Labeda 90mm street luge wheel with the aluminum core and feel how awesome it is to have the wheel delam in the first turn. Epic Fail. And just so you don’t think that I’m making stuff up NOW to try and prove a point, here’s a post of mine from 2011.

Here’s a picture of a Labeda roller skate wheel, the street luge with the same core in it, and then when Otang tried it again years ago …

Labeda has a history of taking whatever roller skate hub they have laying around and convincing people to stick it in a skateboard wheel and see what happens. The customer becomes the tester. Some customers just completely blew right through the “foam” cores that can only handle the radial loads of an inline skate. Oopsy. Then there’s the tall inline core with the exposed spokes. Oopsy. I’m not trying to be your dad here, but I think that I can save some of you the trouble of having to re-invent the bad wheel.

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Many of us have discussed the problems with low torque and hub motors years ago. Mainly just an issue on a single hub drive. With big 12 pole stators you can generate plenty of torque with a dual hub setup to have a fun and fast board. Double the stator poles and you get even more torque but there are limits and efficiencies here when dealing with the relatively small motors used in electric skateboards. You do still need a huge pack to have consistent power. No sense using huge motors if you don’t have the discharge capacity to run them long term.

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