How you burn up ur esc or motor going slowly and despite seeing few amps from the battery

not sure what you mean by this. But these values where obtained during the road test going uphill.

I’m thinking as well that the extra heat is possibly due to the Esc having to hold voltage back at less than full throttle.

@Namasaki Great work on this. I wonder if the batteries c-rating can possibly have an effect on the heat. Maybe it’s harder to control and hold back the power?

Hey Shawn, forget what I said before about motor timing and accelerating settings. Those settings where with my hub motors. I just ran a road test with belt drive 6355’s set at high timing and high acceleration with 12s voltage going up some decent hills and keeping my speed below 16mph. when I was finished, I checked my Esc’s and motors and the Esc’s where barely warm( only 10 deg more than when I started) and the motors where not even warm. So Those settings are not the problem. Something else is causing your overheating problems. On a side note, my brakes where working poorly with normal motor timing and medium acceleration. To be specific, I was coasting downhill and picking up speed and tried to apply a little brake but the brakes would not respond until I had pushed the trigger out farther than normal and then they grabbed suddenly. I noticed that they worked much better with 6s voltage. Anyway, I changed my motor timing to high and acceleration to high and the brakes showed some improvement.

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Interesting. You’re esc’s are mounted out in the open air, right? Would you mind taping some temporary enclosure over your esc’s and repeating your test to see if there is any noticeable difference in temps? And I was just thinking, what if the fact that I’m using only one esc is causing it to heat up more? Maybe I just need to run dual to keep each unit’s current in check?

2 posts were split to a new topic: Why does my motor cut out for a split sec

Your right, running single power and climbing hills. Your gonna get more heat than you would with a dual setup. I experienced this one day when I was out on a ride and one of my esc’s burned up and I had to disconnect it and ride back with one motor/esc. going uphill. when I got back to my car that one esc was way hotter than before. It’s simple, when you run dual, your cutting the load on each motor and esc in half. you could take your esc out of the box and mount it to the deck with a few screws and see if that helps. I honestly don’t think it will solve your problem completely. Frankly, I would invest in either TB’s 6355 E-board motors or Enertion’s R-spec 6355 motors. Okay, so there not as cheap as the Hobby King motors. But I believe that you get what you pay for. There motors are specifically designed for E-boards. HK’s motors are not. And though with some modification, they may work, but how well? and for how long? So I’m thinking that your problem might just be the motors your using and using and the single drive setup. You wouldn’t happen to live in So. California ?

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disection of the rspec vs Hobbyking stuff has been done a couple of times here. It’s a good motor for a board and so are many at Hobbyking.

I understand that there are different opinions about these motor options. I haven’t tried any of the hobby king motors so I can’t say for sure about them but I have used TB’s motors and I run them very hard up a lot of long hills and they never get hot or cause my Esc’s to get hot. I just can’t help but believe that motors specifically designed for e-boards have got to be the best option. But that’s just my opinion.

Sorry, I’m up in northern California. Otherwise, I’d love to go ride and do some testing. Btw, what equipment are you using to get these readings? I’m thinking of getting some kind of meter to monitor these things.

I’m gonna try dual hub motors soon, but in the meantime, I might also try running my two 245kv motors together, staggered on one truck, or even try a dual uneven setup with a 260kv SK3 I just picked up. Just to make things even more interesting.

One more thing for when you’re out testing, can you test the effect of limiting throttle to like 80% or something? Maybe limiting your top speed to something more reasonable will allow you to use “full” throttle, and maybe yield interesting results?

And since you’re in test mode, do you happen to have different kv motors that you could test and compare?

My first Diy setup was dual hub motors with TB 12s Esc’s and 12s Lipo. I wanted to ease into it so I started at 40% power. I stayed there for a while. Top speed with the Carvons on that setting was still 20+ mph You shoul try that and see if it reduces heat. I also tried 60, 80 and finally 100% There was a substantial jump in power from 40 to 60 Not so much difference going from 60 to 80 or 80 to 100 You should try it at 40 and see. I’m not sure if that setting limits current or voltage. My guess is gonna be voltage because turning it down feels like your running lower voltage.

I only have the 2 TB 230kv motors

I’m gonna add that to my “to try” list. From your testing results so far, I’d also guess it would reduce the voltage.

I’m not no EE but from my experience what overheats the motor is the stress in terrain and/or over throttling and the energy/power has no where to go. That’s the quickest way to overheat it. Especially, when running at 12S this is more of an issue versus running at 6S.

Ex. Your board can’t move forward but you throttle too hard and drive more power to the motors but it can’t go anywhere. That power/energy has to go somewhere (supposedly?)

Maybe someone with more exp in “electronics” might know a bit more.

I had a dual 6S on 5065 280KV and man that thing was quick and didn’t overheat much if any. I’d say it’s about 70-80% up to a 12S dual setup. It just wouldn’t climb as steep of a hill as many times due to being a smaller motor it would get hot “quicker” than a 63mm motor.

The more I read about 12s vs 6s it’s almost the same and the only real difference (assuming they’re geared optimally) is on 6s unless you’re running high c batteries they will possibly suffer voltage sag as more amps are used with 6s. A lot of the attraction of high voltsge is a hold-over from when there wasn’t such high c rated batteries available. Now that there are high c batteries there’s no reason not to run 6s other than the batteries are more expensive. Hopefully I can run a 6s on 200kv and 12s on 90kv test tomorrow. The motors will likely run very similar temps but maybe the escs will run cooler or hotter. But I hear it can go either way and higher voltsge isn’t necessarily more efficient there either

Have you done a comparison ?

But as u say the real inefficiency is too much load for the motor. Too steep really…or you could say too fat

@Hummie that and/or someone goes up a hill and slows the momentum. Then your trying to start from almost a stop in the middle of the hill. That can cause a lot of load/heat too.

I’ve done a slight comparison but I didn’t notice a whole lot of difference. Although, I wasn’t testing for amp rating and more so just riding results. 6S, you just need higher KV and a dual/second motor helps.

It seems like dual drive is the way to go to limit amp draw and keep things cooler. I’m gonna have to try that too.

If your not climbing any hills though you shouldn’t need it at all. Dual motor IMO is only really needed for hills unless you want more traction.

As you say when you try to get up a hill from a standstill it’s the worst. Riding at as close to top speed is the most efficient and adding a load onto a really slow speed is the worst.

It’s been proven that different voltage systems perform just as efficiently if they’re optimized (gears and kv ) but the controllers will perform differently depending on what…bits…they have inside. I’d like to know what the vesc is best at

Even the assumption, which I had, that with a lower voltage set up you won’t get quite the kick isn’t true. As long as your batteries can take the amp draw and the esc is suited to the amp draw it’s just as good

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