High Power 10s Lipo Battery Pack with BMS

What’s up.

Quick Q. Sold my batteries (the 2S2P ones, shouldn’t lose much if not any money so that’s good). I am looking at new ones and can’t decide between 2S 5000mAh 30C and 2S 5000mAh 40C. I know that you say the higher the C the lower the sag, and the packs max outputs are 150A v 200A, but the second one is about $3 more (x5 = $15). Is it worth it to get the 40C ones?

Absolutely worth it especially if its only $3 per pack. Get the 40c for sure. So what about the 60c like I used? They would be even much better.

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Those are about $27, which would be another $30 or so when I am already over budget. I know 60C would be better but I really am trying to keep the price down. Also the hardcase makes the pack a little bigger and I am tight on space.

Alright, they are actually not available in the USA from Hobby King at this time. So I would highly recommend that you spend the extra $15 for the 40C. It’s well worth it.

Just bought it. Last part that I need so can start building once they come! Thanks for all the help.

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do you have a hobby charger? If yes, it’s a good idea to balance charge the packs before putting them together. If no, check each packs voltage and balance. All cells should be close to same voltage when you put them together.

Do you still need a buyer?? Would totally buy!

Hey man, any idea how to find the rpm of hub motors? I haven’t been able to find info on it and I’d love to know.

How long does it usually take you to charge your 10s board with a 2A charger?

What hub motors are you referring to?

I usually charge with 5a and I don’t usually discharge completely so it’s hard to say.

I’m going to use the 90mm maytech hub motors. I’m aware they’re not the best but my budget doesn’t really allow for much else.

@Namasaki is it possible for you to show how you connected you switch to the BMS? Bit cautious now cause I blew my switch yesterday hehe. (not connected to the BMS)

On almost all BMS’s the switch wires are either open or closed. There is no NEG or POS, its simply an open loop for OFF or a closed loop for ON. Obviously this is for BMS’s tat have a switch, some do not.

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Exactly as @mmaner said. The Bestech E-switch has 2 white wires. When there connected together, the bms turns on. When there disconnected, it turns off. All you need is a simple 2-pole automotive switch connected to the wires.

Thx @mmaner and @Namasaki, was a just to be save question hehe. Atm I’m mostly using 12AWG wire and 14AWG from the charge port to the BMS. Is this gonna be a problem? Using XT150 for connectors, so that’ll be save enough.

VESC came with 12AWG, so thought that would be save enough.

Wiring finally coming together thanks to your diagram and tips @Namasaki. Thanks again!

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12/14 AWG to a charge port is fairly beefy. Since chargers typically charge around 4 amps you can use a thinner cable than that. I think mine is 18/20 awg.

really like this idea!

I would like to duplicate this approach, but ideally would like to keep the possibility of going to 12S open, if it turns out my build is underpowered on 10S is there a 12S version of the bestech BMS you used?

if I wired a 12S BMS to a 10S battery initially would you expect that to work?

There is a 12s version. I don’t think a 12s bms with 10s battery will work

If you want Maximum power and range, then 12s Is the ticket

Thanks, think i found the 12s version, but also found this one

http://bestechpower.com/444v12spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D328.html

Looks like it has a lot of extra features and is programmable for different numbers of cells, worried it might be overly complicated to configure tho’ done a few searches and nobody seems to be using it.

I’m new to esk8 and skating in general so 10s seems like a more sensible place to start than 12S, but like the idea if just being able to buy 1 extra cell if i do decide i need the extra volts. Could this BMS be a sensible choice?