what might be more productive is if we make suggestions of features and then they are added to a poll we can all vote on?
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I agree. At the end of the day, it’s up to him and the communities needs as to what he builds.
I’m simply pointing out a top hatch that is waterproof can be designed, and is not impossible.
I like this idea
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Ok your argument is absurd. Comparing a car which is the main transport for most people to an Esk8 which granted, some people use for their main transport, but I think for most of us this is for fun /hobby, or getting somewhere from a bus that’s a mile or so too complete the way home. As for your comments about driving a car in the snow I’m just going to ignore as it’s clearly meant to start an argument. I guess my point is, the board shouldn’t be made to the specifications of a rather small portion of the population, but to the needs of the majority.
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I’m with you. IMO, what the majority of eskate DIYs will want:
- integrated enclosure of some sort, hold 50 cells with room for 2 ESCs, bms, receiver, etc. This also gives us big wheelbase for stability at speed.
- wire channels of some sort
- enclosure opens up without unscrewing 30 screws. splash resistant.
- room between enclosure and rear truck for inside mounted motors
- mounting panel for charge port, switch, vesc usb passthrough, XT90S loop key, etc.
- we tend to run big wheels. 90mm, 97mm, 107mm. So some kind of wheel clearance. And most of the motor mounts are designed around caliber fifty trucks.
- maaaybe some mount points for lights, front and back. Like flat spots on bottom near trucks
- badass looks (from what I’ve seen you can’t help it)
- cheap as hell (this one’s a joke)
And thanks @Hi5ber for popping in! Exciting.
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I never said anything to discourage people from riding in the least. I’m just cautioning about riding in the rain as that is usually a good way to mess up your bearings, and a lot of motors aren’t waterproof so I’m also trying to help in that regard, but if you want to risk it, don’t let me stop you, but regardless of where the lid is, if it’s raining and your riding, you have a much higher chance of ruining your motors and bearings long before any water could get inside to do its damage.
Dear @Hi5ber, thank you for reaching to us!
I’d suggest the following ideas :
- We need a kick tail for the city, it is a pain to ride without it
- We need a W concave for easy foot placement because it will go fast
- It must sit as low as possible when mounted on trucks like Caliber 2 (most used model) to provide the most possible “analog” feel, people can always choose to put risers later
- The lid of the enclosure should actually be on the bottom because instead of making multiple deepness in the deck, you can offer various lid sizes, flat or bulky, to accommodate for any battery packs sizes ; if you put the lid on top you won’t be able to cause it would mess up with the whole deck.
Rest of the proposed ideas are pretty good too.
Since there seems to be a disagreement on kick tail, maybe propose both offerings?
Wish you a good development.
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Well a good set is like $50, but you totally ignored the ruined motors I mentored…?
and some times it is possible to have it all my rayne fortune v3 has a usable kick-tail depending on the rear truck position.
there are kick tails and there are kick tails… it doesn’t need to be like a 90’s pool deck?
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Here’s a lid that definitely won’t leak and it’s on the top.
http://rocket-boards.com/preorder-the-rocket-deck/
I would just make it so the screws are a quick release type. PROBLEM SOLVED!
This a flat kick tail is beautiful like the loaded cantellated tesseract… as water resistant as possible…50cell holding ability…2 vests…clearance for wheels of like 97-120mm(the futures coming and 120mm wheels are too)…love to see a deck similar to the rayne v3
That whole design has very little application to a carbon fiber deck
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I’m just using it as an example that it’s possible to have a water proof lid.
I get that, personally I prefer a lid on top, but that’s a solution that won’t work here, that’s all 
I think we should leave the engineering to the engineer and go from there 
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So we want a 30" short board with a 29" wheelbase, lids on top and bottom, room for 100 cells, 4 vescs, 10 bluetooth modules, and a sixer
And it needs to be $50 or I’m out /s
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That’s awesome you’re here @Hi5ber I was actually looking at your decks but wound up going with a different brand. I’d definitely say kick tails are important to me with city commuting. I was also looking at carbon fiber specifically for the weight. Maybe you can do 2 versions, a longboard without the kick tail and a shortboard that includes the kick tail. Definitely enough space to fit large wheels, easily accessible innards…
You’ve already got sexy down. I’ve noticed a lot of the larger boards tend to have more flat decks. But a lot of us also prefer Concave so not sure about that. I think some type of channel for the motor wires coming from the trucks to the enclosure with maybe a panel to cover them up would be cool. This maybe difficult, but past the battery section, where the vescs and receiver goes the enclosure top could change to a different material to help with the receiver signal.
I think the enclosure should open from the bottom just for the sake of having a Concave built in to the deck rather than a move able part, but what do I know. I break everything 
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I’ve got a Trampa that needs to be finished up, but that’s only because I didn’t see something like this first.
Looking forward to see what comes of this thread.
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Plus one for this, sounds perfect.