No problem 
I’ll try to get started on it tomorrow.
Greatly appreciated man thanks
I would suggest you look at psychotiller.com, he has every possible size enclosure you can imagine. You can spend 40 printing and another 20 annealing, but it still won’t be as strong as vacuum formed ABS…it won’t be as strong as it needs to be unless you print it 8mm thick and never bottom out on a curb or speed bump.
Thanks for the advice. But it it going to be to expensive since it’s outside eu.
I plan on coating it with glasfiber both on inside and outside. Don’t you think it will be strong enough
There are people that have successfully made 3d printed enclosure, I would search the topics here.
Is it better to make without the 3d print as a form/template if so how? i dont have a vaccuum bag
nah! 2 mm shell thickness is enough. i printed multiple enclosures now and none of them broke. its all a matter of how you print them. if you print them flat on you bed, it WILL break. if you print them standing up, you will get a tough as nails shell. Go with PETG or ABS for that (PETG is way easier to print). or nylon if you have to much money. thats stuff is unbreakable.
im testing PLA right now (still printing). toughness should be fine, not sure about the heat …
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What is the diffrence between standing up or laying flat on the print bed. The way the printer lays the strings should be the same.
Im currently doing something like this. I have the vesc cover done (finished the model) and will be doing my battery pack tomorrowish. http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/build-no-2-loaded-vanguard-dual-focbox-dual-6354-190kv-rear-mounted-lipos/29223/ If you let me know what dimensions you need I’ll do one for you in the same style when I find time. I would recommend learning some CAD yourself. It’s fun and usefull, especially if you have a 3D printer. I use Fusion360 and like it a lot. It’s also free.
its not! the weakest point of any print is where the layers are bonding. since the case has all the batteries and so on in it, it will have to be extra strong on downward/upward forces. if you print it flat on the bad, you are basicly pulling the on the layeradhesion itself and like i said,m they are very likly to break. this is good for sideways forces. if you print it standing up however, you are completly negating/switching this. the layers will only be bend but not pulled on.
watch this video 
Thank you i have a board that looks like the boostedboards deck. The dimensions are
from truck start to truck start: 70 cm Then there is 10 cm from truck start when the deck curves out. so 10cm from the truck start is the fulld width the deck is 22.5 cm wide it curves ever so slightly.
If you could make something that has room for 10x 7.5cm x 10cm x 2 cm battery packs and a BMS of same size.
Im looking for a design that looks like boosted board. If you see what i have made you will know.
But anyways im just thankfull if you will make something that you just think is cool so its not to big of a hassle to you to.
I have a VESC enclosure.
I will be coating it with glassfiber so i appreciate smoothe surfaces which i had a difficult time making.
Do you use support then. I suspect you will be using alot extra material then?
mine is to large to fit my printer anyway so i have to split my case into 2 parts and thus is open on the top. so support is mostly only needed for the bottom
Ahh so that is how. I was thinking you turn it around the other angle. That makes sense. I will make sure to print like this. What printer do you use?
Haven’t had much time at all for this but is this what you had in mind? If yes, I’ll try to keep working on it at some point.
It is definitely something like that. I’m just not sure that alle batteries can be there is seems a little short. And if you could make it less square and more round. With round edges it would be great. It works better with glass fiber
Rounder where exactly? I had to eyeball the models you sent me for reference, so for the moment this is about 200x200mm. More accurate dimensions would be very helpful.
Hi you can use this model for reference. Im not sure it fits the width but i think it does.
it just need to be longer and higher to accommodate the batteries
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Mhmmmm this is interesting 
… I’ve always printed them flat on with lots of support material… It worked for me since I went for 5mm wall thickness.
Maybe I’ll try to reduce thickness a bit and print it upwards. You’ll use a brim right ?
If you have a flexible board, I think the way you did it is better, since the board will stretch and squeeze the enclosure with the length of the board.