Yep I had done that EXACT procedure countless times and mine liked to cut signal and leave me with no brakes several times per ride. I’ve since gotten the benchwheel remote and I haven’t had a single problem! Even more reliable than GT2B in my opinion.
1 Like
link for that remote?
Yea, I’ve been very happy with the benchwheel remote thus far. For anyone who’s interested Miami electric boards sells them in the US. I’ll be stocking a couple of the newer version around November as well.
@oneafrikan You’re in Europe, no? It might be easier and cheaper for you to order straight through Benchwheel. Just email them directly. [email protected] (not benchwheel.com)
1 Like
About the sticking throttle/brake: this happens often, when the plastic part on top of the remote is pressed to far into the case.
You can remove the 3 screws, turn the remote onto the other side, open it and remove the plastic part from the metal pin of the potentiometer. Now apply some glue to the pin, put back the plastic part, close the case again and pull the plastic thing out as far as it goes. Test, if it moves freely. If so, just let the glue dry over night.
At least that solved it with my winning remote, the problem was gone.
I think it’s a quality control problem. Some worker/s at the factory is screwing up somewhere in China. There are those who have connection issues and some that don’t. Like @Jinra said, it’s 1% too many problems. I rode once with two disconnects, one was no throttle, the other was no brakes (much scarier). This weekend I rode 8 miles with zero issues. Same route too. That Nano-X better be more than a re-shell or it’s a bust.
Since @onloop said it’s been working well for him, I assume there’s been no change to the electronics?
1 Like
Maybe i shouldn´t have read this topic before leaving for my afternoon ride.
Left my flat with both board and remote fully charged. After about 5 km, riding on a completely flat bikelane with about 20 km/h the board suddenly stopped and dropped me of. Luckily i reacted quickly and was able to run out but you all can imagine that the rest of the ride wasn´t much fun because i had absolutely no explanation for this sudden stop and was afraid of the board stopping again.
Since i read a lot of these horror stories about the winning i don´t want to say that i´m done with it but i for sure have to look out for alternatives.
@onloop: Please double and triple check your new Nano-X batches if it´s just a winning in an other shell.
Aside from all these comments, I actually haven’t had any problems so far. Guess I’m the lucky 99%
Well. According to my poll you are in the lucky 61% lol.
1 Like
FWIW, I’ve put hundreds of hours on my Yuneek E-GO (gen 1) and the remote works great. I charge it about once every 10 hours of riding, it’s super small/slim, and has a big range of movement for accelerating and decelerating. It’s the only esk8 remote I’ve ever used, but having read all these horror stories, maybe you guys with issues could consider getting one of these to work with your boards.
It used to cut off when I first bought it but I realized it was getting interference from my phone in my pocket. I disable bluetooth on my phone when riding and since doing so it almost never loses connection. If it does lose connection, nothing scary happens; it neither accelerates nor decelerates, it coasts for about a second before the board ‘beeps’ letting me know it’s reconnected. This maybe happens once every 10 hours of riding.
I don’t mean physically stuck (though that’s sometimes a problem too). The throttle will sometimes keep inputting a throttle command even when it’s physically neutral, or not respond to brake commands.
I experienced the same problems as yours but I noticed it was always in the same spots, I’ve quickly come to the conclusion that the problem is radio signal interference. It happened near speed cameras and IP security cameras, I think that in Asia/Aus they may use another frequency/bandwith/channel but here in London, UK there were too many clashes. I went back to the other winning remote (same as tb remote), the mini one, not the nano. Are the issues happening randomnly or always in the same spots? Does crouching keeping the remote near the board help (in my case it did, but it wasn’t really a solution)?
Both actually! I noticed it happened both times i got off a specific train station, but i only went there twice. Other times it happens randomly, sometimes not near any specific electronics (but maybe something inside someone’s house, or wifi signals?)
up until last week I would have said: no issues with my Kaly Winning Remote.
But … then I lent a board to a friend so we could go for a ride together. He on my first build with the modded GT2B, me on my hummie hubs cruiser with the winning.
Result: massive drop outs when we rode close to each other. No issues when we were like 50m apart. Don’t get me wrong, he was not controlling my board. But when my winning remote was close to the GT2B I couldn’t control my board anymore.
At the same time, the GT2B had no issues. So please watch out with whom you’re riding and what remote they have.
1 Like
I had a suspicion that my random braking was to do with battery voltage, as they got more frequent after some riding. I tried fully charging the remote and leaving it plugged into the power bank for the entire run. I experienced no issues with random braking in the usual areas of riding/dropouts. I’ll probably need to try it a bit more before I’m certain, but it was interesting Edit:disregard this, it still randomly braked
Cool thanks. Those guys really need to get their ecommerce sorted!
I’m having similar issues myself. This “winning” remote seems to work great 8/10 times, by times I mean in any one stretch of road before needing to brake/turn etc. but pretty frequently I’m having connection errors or something. It cuts out when I accelerate and often comes right back a second later, others I need to restart it to get the connection back. My main issue is going low speeds and trying to accelerate smoothly with it cutting in and out, or holding a steady speed, because when it comes back it’s often at full-throttle. Already had one spill due to this. Using a brand new Raptor so I’m confident all the internals are sound, I just think this remote/connection is not super dependable, which is critical if you want to feel secure/enjoy riding.
I could also probably use some settings adjusted in that BDCL tool thingy I keep hearing about… Is it possible to make the acceleration linear to the thumb-stick? I seem to go from nothing to everything with very little in-between…
1 Like
If you crouch and hold your remote by the board it saturates the signal and works correctly. So I took mine and moved it away from the electrical components and mounted it outside the enclosure. Problem solved. Just too bad I had to mount outside…
What is the difference between the new and old version? Which one is Miami boards selling?
I’ve had no trouble with this remote (I have them on 3 builds). But I’m also short so maybe the signal is stronger for me? lol 
2 Likes