Has anyone NOT had issues with the Winning Remote?

Mine is working pretty well. When charging, the light is green, goes red when fully charged, which is the opposite of what the instructions said would happen. I thought I had some disconnection issues, but on inspection I think it was just bad connections elsewhere. initially I blamed the remote though… perhaps that’s our instinct, to blame the remote first?

definitely the remotes fault for me, swapping to a different one solved all my issues.

I am wondering if a ferrite ring would help?

Well given they wired up the lights the wrong way on mine, I definitely believe there are real issues too. It’s a shame they can’t sort out the quality, but I guess we’re sort of still in a beggars can’t be choosers kind of situation here. There’s surely a few people working on quality versions of this kind of form-factor right now. I’ll take 2!

Little update on the winning remote, it’s Been randomly applying the brakes at full force when I begin to accelerate. This happens only sometimes. When the remote is fully charged this almost never happens. Within 30 minutes of use this happens frequently. I have re-binded the remote, and even used brand new servo wires and checked my parameters on the vesc, all seems normal, apart from the random braking. It’s made me scared to go faster than a walking pace.

do you have a timeout brake current in the VESC? It could be the remote is disconnecting and it times out

they work really well for me, they are also much harder to break when compared to the steeze who’s buttons at the front are exposed.

Check out these instructions before riding…

Please test the fail-safe functionality (like moving the transmitter as far away from the board and checking if the motor shuts down if out of reach). If the motors doesn’t shut down or applies brakes, please perform the following steps for binding and calibrating:

Check and make sure all the wires are connected and that the REMOTE is OFF. Insert the bind plug into CH3(Bind) on the RECEIVER.

With the REMOTE OFF: switch on the ESC to power up the RECEIVER, the red LED light will flash.

PRESS and HOLD the bind button on the REMOTE and then turn the REMOTE ON.

You should notice the REMOTE and RECEIVER LED light go from flashing red to solid red.

Once you see a solid red light, the binding process is complete. Then without turning the REMOTE OFF or touching the THROTTLE pull the bind plug out (for the receiver to record the throttle mid point, neutral, to engage the fail safe)

Then you can test it again by turning OFF the REMOTE and the RECEIVER LED should flash. By turning the REMOTE ON the RECEIVER LED should go back to solid red.

Before riding, it’s better to test the fail safe functionality again. Leave the board powered on and switch the REMOTE off: if the motor isn’t moving, the fail safe function is working, if the motor is moving fast or abruptly braking while throttle is applied: you have to repeat step No.1- No.6

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This has been repeated and done by a bunch of people in here including myself. The stuck throttle, and disconnect issues still happen occasionally; about 1% of the time, which is 1% too much for me.

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Yep I had done that EXACT procedure countless times and mine liked to cut signal and leave me with no brakes several times per ride. I’ve since gotten the benchwheel remote and I haven’t had a single problem! Even more reliable than GT2B in my opinion.

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link for that remote?

Yea, I’ve been very happy with the benchwheel remote thus far. For anyone who’s interested Miami electric boards sells them in the US. I’ll be stocking a couple of the newer version around November as well.

@oneafrikan You’re in Europe, no? It might be easier and cheaper for you to order straight through Benchwheel. Just email them directly. [email protected] (not benchwheel.com)

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About the sticking throttle/brake: this happens often, when the plastic part on top of the remote is pressed to far into the case.

You can remove the 3 screws, turn the remote onto the other side, open it and remove the plastic part from the metal pin of the potentiometer. Now apply some glue to the pin, put back the plastic part, close the case again and pull the plastic thing out as far as it goes. Test, if it moves freely. If so, just let the glue dry over night.

At least that solved it with my winning remote, the problem was gone.

I think it’s a quality control problem. Some worker/s at the factory is screwing up somewhere in China. There are those who have connection issues and some that don’t. Like @Jinra said, it’s 1% too many problems. I rode once with two disconnects, one was no throttle, the other was no brakes (much scarier). This weekend I rode 8 miles with zero issues. Same route too. That Nano-X better be more than a re-shell or it’s a bust.

Since @onloop said it’s been working well for him, I assume there’s been no change to the electronics?

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Maybe i shouldn´t have read this topic before leaving for my afternoon ride.

Left my flat with both board and remote fully charged. After about 5 km, riding on a completely flat bikelane with about 20 km/h the board suddenly stopped and dropped me of. Luckily i reacted quickly and was able to run out but you all can imagine that the rest of the ride wasn´t much fun because i had absolutely no explanation for this sudden stop and was afraid of the board stopping again.

Since i read a lot of these horror stories about the winning i don´t want to say that i´m done with it but i for sure have to look out for alternatives.

@onloop: Please double and triple check your new Nano-X batches if it´s just a winning in an other shell.

Aside from all these comments, I actually haven’t had any problems so far. Guess I’m the lucky 99%

Well. According to my poll you are in the lucky 61% lol.

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FWIW, I’ve put hundreds of hours on my Yuneek E-GO (gen 1) and the remote works great. I charge it about once every 10 hours of riding, it’s super small/slim, and has a big range of movement for accelerating and decelerating. It’s the only esk8 remote I’ve ever used, but having read all these horror stories, maybe you guys with issues could consider getting one of these to work with your boards.

It used to cut off when I first bought it but I realized it was getting interference from my phone in my pocket. I disable bluetooth on my phone when riding and since doing so it almost never loses connection. If it does lose connection, nothing scary happens; it neither accelerates nor decelerates, it coasts for about a second before the board ‘beeps’ letting me know it’s reconnected. This maybe happens once every 10 hours of riding.

I don’t mean physically stuck (though that’s sometimes a problem too). The throttle will sometimes keep inputting a throttle command even when it’s physically neutral, or not respond to brake commands.

I experienced the same problems as yours but I noticed it was always in the same spots, I’ve quickly come to the conclusion that the problem is radio signal interference. It happened near speed cameras and IP security cameras, I think that in Asia/Aus they may use another frequency/bandwith/channel but here in London, UK there were too many clashes. I went back to the other winning remote (same as tb remote), the mini one, not the nano. Are the issues happening randomnly or always in the same spots? Does crouching keeping the remote near the board help (in my case it did, but it wasn’t really a solution)?

Both actually! I noticed it happened both times i got off a specific train station, but i only went there twice. Other times it happens randomly, sometimes not near any specific electronics (but maybe something inside someone’s house, or wifi signals?)