Are you making sure the button and the button surround stays in the hole before tightening it down? It still lifts?
Not sure to understand what you mean.
I use a hobby knife (scalpel) to wide a bit the hole making sure the button slides smoothly.
Then I tighten the PCB but solders act like levers, so the more I screw the top end of the PCB, the more the bottom end lifts up.
So I tighten until it starts to lift up and then I put the piece of pad. 
Hmmmm, don’t think I’ve had that issue that I’ve noticed. Could you dremel the nubs off?
Definitely v2 will address this.
Dremel the enclosure ? Yes, probably the cleanest solution.
Anyway,I keep the piece of pad. It makes me sure that the main PCB won’t short with the CH3 PCB.
Thanks for the upgrade. I have maybe another one : could you close the holes under the CH3 button ? Actually, using the CH3 original screws is enough to tighten the main PCB inside the enclosure. That + the holes a bit narrow (to let the screw create its own thread), it would be perfect !!
Can you take a picture of the + hole?
Pardon my english. I meant, if you could make the holes more narrow for the main PCB screws it could be perfect in addition of closing them outside.
The holes in my print and mold are perfect size. Could it be your PLA or settings?
It’s perfectly sized when you pass through with you screw and tighten a bolt at the other end, right ? Because, I’m not tighten the main PCB in the same way. I use the original screw of the GT2B (“auto-drill” screw). It creates its own thread in the plastic. So I have 2 holes on the other side as I don’t use bolt. BUT the point is in my way, holes are a bit too wide and the screw is not so tighten.
Arf, I should post pictures…
I understand now, they are designed to be push through from the outside through the Main board then the trigger assembly and then the nut. How do you hold the trigger assembly into the case?
What an idiot… I wrote a tutorial for french guys (I plan to translate it when I’ll time).
You’ll find some pictures showing how I proceed (don’t pay attention for CH3, I didn’t know the trick of the button before).
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I got ch3 working thanks for help. I messed up the throttle pot chip when soldering any tips on how to solder second one? Also do you add anything to limit up travel because ESC doesn’t register brake towards the end?
Its probably the print quality but I had to add a little trench where the throttle spring moves because I was getting binding. For v2 a little slimmer would be nice to wrap hand around easier. Also a little piece of plastic where the bottom opening of throttle is sort of how the gt2b controller has so fingers won’t get caught up (maybe remove bottom one where screw goes in and leave that one flat). Just suggestions it’s great as is.
I’ve never had issues on the pot, but some people do. just try and keep as much of the metal from the PCB as possible. Maybe just unsolder the PCB quickly from the board?
Can you adjust the throw on your ESC? I don’t limit mine, I just can’t go full stick or my VESC over voltages.
I will check the spring trench, and also I love ideas. Everything is life can be improved. As for slimmer… That thing is as slim as I could get it without opening some holes. So maybe I can get it slimmer. I’ve noticed my middle finger under the throttle maybe a nub there.
I think my mistake was removing the legs to PCB I won’t do that next time.
I don’t think it’s over voltage I think the ESC can’t read the pulsewidth. My hobbywing max 8 seems fine, but the vesc and xerun I had to limit up travel. If you look on gt2b the case limits up travel. Probably if the madmunkey was closed in the upper spot would do the trick. It’s about 3mm that need to be stopped. I thought it was over voltage when I had badwolf enclosure but I glued a piece of plastic to stop brake trigger and problem solved. To much brake travel was also causing the min and max pulsewidth on vesc to not matchup so I couldn’t get a 50% in neutral but with limited brake travel it lined up.
I heard about the brake issue also with french guys who owns a mad munkey. I think it’s all about configuring the ESC.
For the pot, don’t de-soler anything ! Some guys burnt the brittle pot because of the heat. Just cut the extra part of PCB, bend it towards the pot and it fits fine (see picture on the link above).
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Love it!
Printed with PETG. Used the cooling fan and had some layer bonding issues, now I print without it with great success, but the controller is still working so I haven’t re-printed it.
Used that little volt meter thing, it was pretty dim (by design) so I contacted the guy on ebay who sells it. He told me to replace the R1 43K resistor with a 10k resistor I salvaged from an old usb reader board and that made it a lot brighter. I poked around on the circuit board until I found a 3v power source that was switched and soldered the positive to that. So it turns on and off with the main switch.
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Great job ! May you post a picture of the PCB and where you hijack the 3V switched source ?
That meter is supposed to be dim, it only pulls 80uA. Would take forever for that to drain your battery. I like mine to stay on to glance at it and know where the battery level is.
Do you know the amp draw after the 10k mod?
That filament looks awesome!
A simple ratio suggests it would be 344 uA, or 0.000344 A. So unless I’m doing my math wrong, at that current it would take about 100 days to fully drain the 800 mAh battery
EDIT: Don’t math before caffeine.
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Yup, that’s roughly my calculation too.
Here is the filament - had to print it hot, 250C and slow (40mm/sec) otherwise the extruder was skipping. Must be a high viscosity version. My MG PETG Black prints fine at like 220-230. No part fan.