For anyone interested, I just posted a Full Length Tutorial/How To about the MasterCho GT2B mod. It has a ton of pictures and it super detailed. I am not sure how well it will compare to doing this mod but it is worth a look it you are confused. I believe the battery mod is the same though, so it could defiantly help with that 
. I’m not trying to self-promote here, just looking to help some people out.
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Just printed the enclosure yesterday, feels super solid and looks great. @FLATLINEcustoms Thank you!!
Still need to buy the GT2b though 
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Work in progress for french guys ! I print upside-down for improving the quality. It uses lot’s more PLA and it’s a pain in the ass to cean up, but the result is really worth it. !
Please guys, consider to give a coin to @FLATLINEcustoms for his amazing remote !
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How much?
For just a casted Mad Munkey v1 it is.
$30 for the Mad Munkey casted. $8 for shipping and handling in USA. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– $38 for a Mad Munkey casted.
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– For a Mad Munkey casted v1 complete it is.
$30 for the Mad Munkey Casted. $30 for a new GT2b. $30 for complete build and installation with lanyard. $5 to install the LED indicator. $8 for shipping and handling in USA. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– $103 for a complete casted Mad Munkey w/LED gauge.
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Is the little button on the other side of the lights the bind button?
Do you have clear casted Mad Munkey’s in stock? My 3D printer is acting up and those look too good to pass up
P.S. Do you have any pictures where the case was modified to have a CH3 button? I recently got my remote-controlled headlights working!
Can you share your set up? Been wanting to do this having to run my dogs at night lately. Been looking at RC car light switches on Banggood for this.
This is all you need! The R/C switch is great because you can even flash your lights at absent-minded cars
https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-Receiver-Controlled-Switch/dp/B012W6RJ5I
Wiring is pretty straightforward:
[12V+] -> [RC Switch] -> [12V Light +] -> [12V Light -] -> [GND]
You will need a 12V BEC. Or potentially you could use the 5V output from the VESC with 5V lights. Either way you need a power source for your lights and R/C switch. I don’t have time to post pictures right now, but I will be doing a build thread soon
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Printed and assembled the mod. Pretty straightforward, great job @FLATLINEcustoms!!! I must add my ch3 board had those white cable headers that had to be removed for it to fit under de main PCB.
Now something that might have happened to other people. If I tighten the screws on the main board, the remote will power up in bind mode, as if the bind button was pressed. Something must be making some contact when the board is pressed down, Im guessing something on the ch3 board or so. The battery has been protected.
I’m getting also a bit of interference on the trigger as if it’s touching something, no big deal.
I can have a clear one shipped out on Friday.
PM me.
Thank you @rtasca did you trim the CH3 PCB shorter? Could you take a shot of the pins that are connecting. Take a dremel or snips to the pins on the back of the main PCB.
Yeah, the board was trimmed.
I found out that the ch3 button doubles as a bind button, IDK why… So what was happening was the main board pressing on the ch3 board thus activating the button.
For the time being I removed the smaller board completely all is good now
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Take a look at your receiver, and you’ll notice is says Bind/CH3… You use the included “loop key” with the pokey stick in combination with CH3 button to bind. But you shouldn’t ever really need to do this since they come paired from the factory
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29 hours ??? Wow ! I thought my 18hour-long-print was the max we could do.
Anyway, I tried a trick to avoid warping with my basic quality PLA : anti-warping wall 
It works ! A bit. IMO it could works better if the wall fits perfectly the remote’s shape and if it’s the closest as possible to the remote.
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wait how are you guys getting print times that long? how dense are your supports? unless you’re printing at like 20mm/s and less than 0.2 layer heights…honestly i’d do higher speeds at .2 layers and just acetone smooth the end result if you use abs or ASA (which you should, rigid ink’s asa is just straight up better abs)