GT2b Mad Munkey v1 Enclosure **NOW READY FOR DOWNLOAD**

Dang thats good looking!! How do i get my hands on one of those bad boys!

If things go to plan, you should be able to get them through Joel @ Flatline Customs. I’m simply doing this for the educational aspect and helping out. :slight_smile:

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@cruiser if you want a 3d printed one I sell those now.

how much do you sell it for?

$32 for enclosure + $8 S&H in America. I just sent one to Australia last week and another to Germany a few weeks ago, both of those were around $34.95 S&H!

Are you still working on a molded one?

Where you able to use ch1 and ch3 as a switch for lights and stuff?

Yes I am @Titoxd10001.

I have the button working on my Mad Munkey and bought a switch to try on the receiver, BUT I haven’t had time… I posted a picture forever ago asking some guru’s if the wiring for the switch would work. I haven’t gotten and answer. On the day I have time to work on my own things I can try the switch on both the ch1 and ch3. I would love to have my LED’s on a channel 1 on a switch and cycle my headlight with the momentary ch3.

What are you looking to do with the switches?

Cool looking forward to it

Yeah i disconnected ch3 without looking how it was connected. Well i want to connect some bright 10watt led lights and maybe a small horn. I have some switches for the receiver side from hobbyking that work well that I’ve used in rc cars. I used a step down voltage module to get to 12v. I have a fob with 4 channels but I’d rather control everything with the gt2b.

I you look up on post #18 I believe you just have to apply 5ohms when switched. I think I have the same switch, I have used them on my headlights for tricopter. I am also using a step down from hobbyking that has a 5v and a 12v line.

What enclosure are you using now?

I remember seeing that post but I didn’t really understand it at the time. I currently have the badwolf enclosure

5K resistor should do the trick.

I want one. What’s the parts list?

Just need a Mad Munkey enclosure, a GT2b and two screws.

OK, I put together my enclosure last night but I mangled my USB port in the process. I’m thinking I can just add a charge plug off 2 of the 3 pins left after desoldering the USB jack…? I measured 3V off the 2 left pins, is the 3rd just a signal?

3rd pin is data. You could just resolder a usb connector, they’re pretty easy to work with.

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Does this take an soldering skills or rewiring? or is it basically unplug and deconstruct the GT2B and then placing it inside the Enclosure

You will need to desolder the usb connector and potentiometer and solder them back. You will also need to cut the pcb.

If you want third channel PCB to fit cut here.

After you remove the USB cut here

The opposite side cut here

Trim the right corner of trigger assembly to clear the button on the PCB

Trim the nose of the left side of trigger assembly to fit inside the enclosure

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Mad Munkey attempt 1 on an Original Prusa i3 mk2 just assembled yesterday. Time to put my calibration to the test.

Here goes nothin.

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Valuable lessons about 3d printing are being learned right now. The print of the lower assembly is about 50% completed. On a number of the lower layers I was having some trouble with PLA warping and adhesion. I didn’t seem to have any of these issues last night on my initial test prints after assembling and calibrating the printer. It was much warmer in my work area last night, and its a cool and drafty morning today. I shut all of the windows around the printer and turned the ceiling fan off. Looks like I may have done this early enough to save the print, the warping and curling seems to have been corrected and everything is evening out nicely. There is a noticeable difference in the quality of the layers before/after closing the windows. Looks like I may be building an enclosure for this printer next.