I am new posting here but I have been lurking the forum for months trying to learn the most I can. I think I will never feel comfortable enough till I actually build one.
I used to ride skates 15 years ago but them moved to a bigger city for the university and never rode again. One year ago I moved to the US to work on a game company called Valve and decided to start riding again. The streets and sidewalks here are great for those small wheels so I think it is time to go a little further
Going to the build, here is a list
Landyachtz deck, it is a drop through deck and I am not sure if will be any problem for the new trucks
caliber truck II 50Âş
abec wheels 97mm
motor mount from Enertion (got on another site because apparently enertion is not doing Diy stuff anymore)
I read in multiple places that a battery not well wired can get fire, so I decided to go safe and get one already assembled from Diyelectricskateboards.com, I always see really good feedback about them so I tough it was the best choice
I weight 205 pounds and the area that I live is mostly flat, but I would like to try some hills in Seattle, our neighbor city
I was calculating the speed with that RC app, and something feels wrong. I am using:
internal gear ratio as 1
pinion = 16
spur = 36
battery voltage as 44.4
motor KV = 190
Tire diameter = 97
And the output is 69km/h (43 mph)
This looks wrong but I don’t know how much the air drag and my weight contribute to slowing it down.
Is there anything wrong with this build?
Am I missing something?
Think the pinion teeth if you go with 13 is going to give you more torque less top end and given the 190kv motor and your size (not being a wirey short type like me) that might be better for the hills out there. With 13 tooth pinion on the motor shaft the calc says top end is 27mph weighted. Think just the combo of high kv, pinion ratio, and tire diameter adds up to lots of speed but then probably not as much torque for acceleration or hill climbing.
great, this weighted value looks more realistic but I could not find on the site what is the math behind being weighted.
According to another post, the weighted value is pretty accurate, but still feels it is too much compared to other boards I see here with better electronics and less top speed
you can get free demos if you come by =], I gave a demo two days ago to a friend youtuber.
It makes sense to go more torque and less final speed since I will never want to reach it, but is the 13T ok in case it has too much torque? I heard that since it has fewer teeth in contact with the belt, it can lead to excessive stress and damage both. I was wondering if I could 3dprint a 40T for the wheels, but I don’t know if the belt will be long enough, it may need to be a new one
Anyways, I am still learning so feel free to point any error
About the wear on the teeth, that does sound likely seeing as how I did wear through one belt and have had my board for just over a year but the belts aren’t that expensive and I ride pretty often so I just chalked it up as a small consumable. The pinion itself hasn’t shown any substantial signs of wear (just surface scuffing but nothing appearing to wear down). I think most of that tearing was due to having the belt a bit too loose though and braking too hard more than anything, since I replaced it a while back and then also adjusted my wheel spacing by adding a washer to make sure the belt doesn’t rub the screws holding the motor in and it seems all is well.
Think the 3D printed option is worth a shot too if you have an all metal hot end then nylon can be really good for things like this. Makes a nice solid part and since the nylon tends to stay as a single thread instead of melting completely like abs or pla it makes the parts quite a bit stronger (beyond the material properties).
I just bought a very similar board: 12s2p , vesc, 6374 190kv all from diy but I bought an extra 13t besides the one that comes with the kit and also 83mm wheels… I need torque more than speed but if there aren’t a lot of hills where you live I think you’ll be fine with the 97’s and just buy a 13t pulley
Your speed is determined by teeth ratio, wheel diameter, battery voltage and motor kv. If you take a 245kv motor, 6s battery and the right ratio, you can get higher speed than much better boards. It’s not the top speed that determines how good a board is. By the way, 190kv is a bit high for 12s, be sure to have the max rpm setting right (60k) in the vesc settings, otherwise you might fry your drv chip
P.s. Right now in this thread there are 3 posts made by you. 3
Half life 3 confirmed???
Updates:
I started 3dprinting a 40T pulley to see if the belt is long enough. If it doesn’t fit, I can try going smaller with the wheel’s pinion and go for a 13T instead of 16T.
I also got some deliveries today, both miamielectricboard and diyelectricskateboards where fast with the shipping almost beating Amazon prime, which is impressive, I am only missing the battery now.
Another change of plans is that based on the size of the motor I will probably not be able to mount the truck as drop-thru.
But I also don’t want the deck hole to be visible so I am looking into alternative solutions.
I found online some back plating for drop-thrus but did not find one that I like yet
Huh I thought from the other designs I’d seen with this motor mount the nut in the bottom left of your last photo was holding a screw that goes through a slot where you could adjust the spacing? Is that not true, or the slots just don’t give enough play for the extra diameter pulley? On the plus side the cleaned up print looks good.
[/quote][quote=“wafflejock, post:12, topic:26169”]
of your last photo was holding a screw that goes through a slot where you could adjust the spacing
[/quote]
It does allow some movement but not enough.
I can also 3dprint the 13T wheel pulley, but I think it may be too much stress for a 3dprinted part. I will never know if I don’t try it
On the meantime, I am trying to get in contact with diyelectricskateboards to see if they can ship another belt together with the battery
Bummer sorry for the crap advice I thought it would have been enough since I can get quite a bit of slack on the mount I got from DIY that I figured it would probably be the same kind of deal with that mount but guess I shouldn’t have assumed. Yeah they have been really accommodating with adjusting orders for me in the past so hopefully that works out.
Also curious what plastic did you end up printing it with (sorry if you mentioned it don’t see it anywhere).
Hey @tvidotto! Welcome to esk8! I’m just across the lake from you!
First off - gearing - if you want to avoid monster speeds on 12s, i’d stick to as low as you can go. 14/15t motor and 40t wheel. Especially with the 97’s on 12s!
Another way to keep speeds down is to go to 149kv or 170kv motor.
I have spare belts a-plenty even if you want to test fit an assortment of sizes. Not sure if you get down by the airport any time and want to get a helping hand just shoot me a PM.
With your 3d printer - i’d really suggest the GT2b vs nano. I know i’ve had drops from tons of wifi 2.4 w/ others and no issues with GT2b. Madmonkey, badwolf, baby buffalo, etc - tons of options.
I ride out at Alki pretty frequently too (play beach VB nearly every Fri during the summer), so if you want a chill ride some time we can get @smurf to join too when his build is finally done!
Oh nice, so you are around the Tacoma area-ish? I go there sometimes.
You mean getting that bulky controller and using another case to make it smaller? I will start researching about that, for sure the last thing I want is losing connection
Alki looks amazing! I never been there, I dont think my board can get that far, but maybe I can find another way.
I got the email that the battery was shipped so if it follows the same shipping days from last time I may be able to start the build this weekend.
I could not manage to get a new belt shipped with the battery in time, so I decided to go for a shorter motor mount ( to fit the 40t pulley). I downloaded a bunch of mounts on Thinginverse but none of them was like I wanted, so I modeled a new in Maya ( the printscreen is not the final, it is missing the motor hole and some other minor adjustments )
Same for the pulley, I did not find a 13 teeth pulley for 12mm belt. I tried to be as precise as possible, but Maya is not the best program for that. I will discover if it works on the following days.
(looking really weird with the support material =] )
Also on another news, a friend that lives in the building got interested and it just bought a longboard, that may lead to another electronic board in this area.
Cool stuff thanks for sharing and keeping us all posted on the build so far.
Don’t have a dual extruder setup here so I can’t really do the support material as something aside from what I’m printing with… I guess it eliminates the lye processing dangers and time but don’t end up with as clean of parts in the end. Really makes me think adding another stepper to my 3D printer and dealing with the config might be worth it.
Thingiverse is great for simple/common stuff and inspiration but happens often that I end up browsing for a bit then deciding it’s faster for me to model the part I need than try to find someones listing that is good. That said things like the pulley are kind of a pain to model so I use the OpenSCAD file for pulleys on thingiverse for those:
Printed a battery enclosure last night that has a little actuating part (2 parts in one print) for locking it into a larger enclosure but I had a few issues printer skipping steps (reduced acceleration on the printer and tightened the belts) and some issues with the multiple parts in one print that I should be able to fix with little bridges that can be cut out after the print. On the plus side even though it had issues printing I was still able to break the sliding part that I spring loaded free so it will lock into the outer container
Also need to flatten out one side of the moving part so it won’t tend to pop itself out but can be popped into the slot… any other ideas or thoughts welcome.
Regarding your motor mount I think you’re probably going to either need to go thicker with that or use Nylon or some other higher temp plastics (ABS or PLA probably won’t cut it at that thickness, maybe at a really high infill % it can hold up but will be a pretty serious test of that plastic, ABS is more compliant to bending it a bit or mushing than PLA, Nylon or PTFE is stronger than both and can get variable types of flexibility or rigidity depending on what you want/need). When the motor turns and pulls on the belt it really wants to spin the whole mount around the truck, the whole equal and opposite reaction thing, so the mount gets kicked around with a lot of force… it might work but I’d probably go thicker or Nylon… just my .02
I think the time spent on the lye bath is not that bad, it saves me a lot of work. The problem is that that thing is really strong. At work we have a room dedicated to those strong materials with an emergency washing system in case it spills in the face.
The nice description they gave me about the lye was: if you touch and feel your fingers sticky, it is fat melting.
Those parametric pulleys looks a great idea, I am downloading the program now.
This is an excellent observation; it seems highly possible now that you mentioned that I will have issues with temperature, the print looks really thin now that you mentioned. I left it printing yesterday night so at least I can test it and adjust in case it fails.
can I get a VR thing called Vive
