If u live in a bumpy area I think the mbs wheels would be a good investment. And the deck can really be any company that is legit and use Canadian maple.
Ya, that’s a good idea. It’s not toooo bumpy, i have friends with boosted that get around ok on 80mm kegels. In your experience though do the mbs wheels reduce vibrations?
And cool, that’s what i was thinking. I usually grab decks slightly used off ebay. Go that route again
I personally have never had experience with MBS but i know many people who use them and are very happy with them. Yeah, just buy a cheap deck from eBay. That’s what I’m doing as I also need a new deck.
Also if u are not getting the MBS and u are willing to spend the extra money, buy actual abec flywheels
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Well, I have gone the cheap deck route from ebay but what I’ve also found is you can get a slightly used “I bought this board but never really rode it and it’s been in my garage for a year so now I’m selling it” board with a brand name that looks sick for about half of what it would retail for.
Cheap decks are fine, but usually getting a landyacthz or rayne board for 60 bucks is just better.
Have about 5 boards right now, all with some pretty sick deals.
I definitely want the 97mm Abec Flywheels, but I’ll have to grab some new pulley / wheel mounts beforehand i think.
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The Tacon 245kv is too high for 10s and TB Vescs. You need something around 190kv And reaching 35mph might not be possible at 10s with good torque. You said your a fairly big guy. At 185lbs with 10s and dual 190kv motors 15/36 gears on 90mm wheels I could not get past 28 mph at full throttle. I switched to 40T wheel pulleys and now my top speed is about 25 mph.
Before that I had a 12s with dual 145kv Carvon direct drive motors and 90mm wheels that got me up to 33mph.
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Check out these group buys for deck:
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these look awful thick
They are enclosure integrated. They will look just as thick if you add your own enclosure to a blank deck. 
nah, it will look thick only at that portion of the deck. Plus like i said i want a swappable battery, which means an easy to open enclosure. These are not. “Plenty of screws but you’ll never have to open it again”
These don’t make a lot of sense to me even if you don’t want a swappable battery though.
You’re invariably adding more wood, so it’s going to be heavier.
They’re pricy
You can get a high quality enclosure that’s fireproof and a board for less $$$
@Zacxxx doubt you will find anything near 110$ for a non-china maple deck with two layers of carbon. there isnt an enclosure included so if you dont like bolts (me!) you can do velcro, that’s what I’ll be doing with the enclosure. worked for me for years in the past. but these are two decks above, one is with the hole on the bottom and much thinner than the one with hole in top.
You must live in an area where it doesn’t snow or rain…
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i never ride in the rain. but i think even with velcro maybe possible to do it waterproof. not that mine will be but possible i think.
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I can’t just not go to work or the grocery store because it’s raining or snowing
yea i know a lot of people need waterproof…like all of europe…but here in san francisco, other than today irronically, it rarely rains and when it does it seems to happen at like 3am. i bike when it does. but a rainproof board with wheel covers would be even better with no back splash
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I buy all my stuff slightly used on ebay. Pretty good at it this point and have gotten some insane deals on normal longboard completes.
Definitely can do better for 110
Also that waterproofing is important to me, as is the easy to open enclosure, and space for a lipo bag of sorts so if a fire starts it won’t destroy everything
Haha, it’s interesting how you view building a board. If you buy decent stuff, you won’t need fire bags… fires occur because you either don’t know what your doing and set your settings wrong or you did sloppy wiring (leaving exsposed wires) or you got extremely unlucky. Never have a fire from the half dozen boards I’ve built.
If you want to save money, buying cheap might work. But it depends what your trying to get from it. If you want a toy to play with in your driveway, you can go super cheap. But if you want quality and power, your not going to get that super cheap, even used.
Buy a pro longboard and it will set you back $120. Buy an enclosure and you back 60-80 bucks. That’s 180-200 bucks.
No matter how you do it, your board will look thick if you don’t want a short range, weak board. Pictures are not the best way of seeing it either. They both look much less thick in person. Batteries are 18.6mm thick and vescs at 22mm. My boards are 25mm thick, so it’s only 3mm thicker than your vescs. Now I can ramp the bottom to look thick if you want to run a weak, short range board, like inboard does, but other wise, you won’t get thinner. Regular boards with an enclosure are actually thicker than my hollow core deck.
Well, I’m approaching it like a two pack of lipo bags on Amazon is $12, and I’d like to feel 100% keeping one in my backpack and or storing them in my place.
I think i mentioned it earlier, but I own a multitude of longboards at the moment. A Honey Velocity, Rayne Supreme, nelson tempest, Palisades Hornet, a cheap double drop ebay board, and an earthwing supermodel. I’m looking at a Landyatchz switchblade at the moment.
I buy them on Craigslist or ebay lightly used. I can grab a switchblade for about 60$ shipped on ebay or craigslist right now.
I mentioned i wanted a swappable battery pack. That’s not possible with that board suggestion. From that board listing it says, to paraphrase, “this has a lot of screws, but once you close it you’ll never have to open it again.”
That obviously doesn’t line up with what i want.
Price for a landyachtz deck is 60 bucks, or I can use one I have already. I just want a new one that has a nice pocket for my feet on breaking and accelerating.
I’m pretty sure the Rayne Boards with Fiberglass are thinner than yours though I couldn’t find any measurements quick
Your boards look good for a purpose, but not for waterproofing (“id have to buy another enclosure anyways”), swappable battery, and none of the ones i looked at had a concave i liked.
Hi. I’m looking to start my first build and was looking for advice on motor type and setup. From the research I’ve done, belt is better than hubs for SF (hills) and a single motor will not be enough. Would other SF folks mind sharing details on their dual belt motor setups?